Yesterday I set my tps using the 2 light bulb technique.
Today I checked the resistance on the tps and I get no reading.

I guess this means it's bad, but is it possible to be able to set it and get a reading from the green checker plug with two light bulbs like it's supposed to and get no reading from the tps itself?

If so and it bad are the Turbo and non Turbo S4 tps interchangable?

Ed

 

Look in the FSM...It will show you the 2 pins to connect your multimeter too...you may have tried the wrong ones. And if it is bad, the turbo and NA are not interchangable...get to the junkyard and find a good one...or look in the FS section.


-Matt

 

I looked in the fsm and checked the right ones.
Anyone else know.

 

Well, Is not too smart, so I rekken I ain't welkum respondin' har, buht ya mit waynna maek shur yer usin' thu rite prong things.

You should be getting some sort of reading through the TPS. If you're getting no reading at ALL from the resistance method, I'd suspect either the probes didn't make contact with the metal, or you're checking the wrong plugs. The FSM has diagrams to use.

-=Russ=-

 

Seriously I checked the right ones I know how to use the FSM and the smart people thing was a joke.

 

I just cleaned them with sandpaper they are making contact. I also checked the resistance on my bac laying in the garage just to make sure the multimeter is working and it's 12 ohms

 

ok, sorry to kinda jack the thread, Hey Edomund, im installing my fmic next week, did you take off the bumper to make things easier, if so did it help alot. my ic looks to be the same size. can i see some more pics of that? if you have

 

Wow that was highway robbery!
I did take off the bumper. Here is the thread of pics https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=greddy

 

Does the tps always show a code when it doesn't work?
I hooked up my code checker (2 LED's) and I dont get a tps code.
I do get a tps code when I unplug it though like it should.

 

If you turn the key On and then move the throttle thru full travel and don't get a code, I'd suggest it's still good.

Can you connect everything back up and then set it again using the two tps lights??? And the lights work??? If so, I'd put the neg meter lead on the batt ground and back probe the tps connector (do not disconnect the connector). Back probe the green/red wire. With the key On and the ENGINE HOT, the reading should be approx 1 vdc. If it does not, then turn the screw til it does. Then move the throttle thru its full travel and watch the meter. It should rise from the approx 1vdc to something like 4.5 vdc or so without droppiing out in between.

 

If you have an s4 the TPS IS interchangeable with the N/A.

The s5 turbo TPS is not interchangable.


Hows that for being smart?


Johny

 

Sorry to interupt but when I tried to check mines on ohms. I would sweep it and it would give a "ol" reading. Does this mean I have to replace the tps? Sometime when I drive it feels like it hesitates, I also have the dreadful 3,800rpm hesitation. S4 TII btw

 

Thanks johny zoom. You are very smart

Hailers I back probed the tps and I get no reading out of

A _

 

woops let me try again

A _

C l l B

I back probed A (red and green wire)

When I check the volts from A (neg.) and B (pos) there is only like .06 and if I pull the throttle no change.

A & C has 5dcv and pull throttle it goes to 4.9.

What the heck?

 

Sorry man but that's wrong S5 NA and turbo TPS's are interchangeable. you just need to swap the bracket. I've done it before.

Personally I've never done the light method and have no problem with using a multimeter. Get the car warm and then put 1 lead on the green wire and 1 on the black. Adjust til 1k ohms. Also make sure to do a slow sweep all the way open to WOT to check for dead spots and spikes. The FSM has specs on the minimum/maximum range in ohms.

 

I put one lead in the black and one in the green (A and B) like the fsm says.

I get 1K omhs at idle position like it's supposed to but when I pull the throttle the #'s go down instead of up like they are supposed to. It goes down under 1K like .6.

This means it's bad correct?
Even though the light check worked correctly right? I assume that has to do with the ecu and not the tps thats why that checks out OK.

 

im not saying this is a fix but a experiance what it was that i could never set my tps and have it stay at 1.0 or with the leds stay correct, a buddy of mine sold me a safc i hooked it up and by using the throttle voltage on it i was able to set it and the idle was perfect never touched 2 years later im not saying buy an safc but its a good tool for your tps

 

No. Not really. Go look at the schematic that shows the TPS. Notice how the two wires that ARE NOT green/red go to the RELIEF and the SWITCHING solenoids.

What you are doing with setting the TPS, is arriving at a voltage output of approx 1volt dc being sent to the ECU. When the ECU sees this approx 1 volt, it puts a GROUND on the RELIEF solenoid. Notice that the ground from the ECU to the Relief solenoid also splits off and goes to one of the green check connector sockets. THAT is why the light lights up. Because of an ground output from the ECU to the Relief solenoid AND the appropriate wire in the green check connector.

We are misunderstanding one another. Take the digital meter and put the negative lead on the BATTERY negative terminal. Put the Positive lead in the back of the harness side of the TPS connector where the green/red wire is. You should see 1vdc when the engine is HOT and the key is to ON. When you do this ALL connectors are connected. Do not disconnect any connector.

Now while watching the meter set on DCVolts, move the throttle thru its full travel. It should go from 1vdc to approx 4.5 vdc. The reading should not go *open* while you do this. If that is a fact, then the TPS is set and go do something useful.

 

You are probably looking at the picture in the fsm backwards. So to prove that, put the meter lead on the other spade in the connector when your checking for ohms.

In most ALL the picutures in the FSM the plugs are shown from the end where the wires enter the plug. I'm not looking at the fsm so i know not how they show this process.

 

this kind of makes me think you have your multimeter is set to the wrong test range. Like the decimal is in the wrong place. try and switch the multimeter around until your .6 turns into a 6.xx Unless your tps is really screwed up. in which case i would deff. get a new one.

 

thats for stupid...
s5 turbo tps and s5 na tps are interchangable
the bracket isnt.

 

Thanks Hailers that made a lot more sense I was confused before.
That worked perfectly I got it to sit at idle position at 1vdc and at full out position 4.6vdc.

However my idle still is about 100RPM's low. It idles very solid and smooth just low.
I have block off plates for the bac, acv, and split air pipe. So these are not the culprates. Now my tps is set and I have no vacuum leaks, I checked and sprayed carb cleaner no leaks.

So why the low idle?
Is there any way to bump up the idle without the ECU putting it back where it was?

Thank you in advance Hailers
ed

 

tighten down the throttle stop screw to your desired idle then readjust tps.

 

Thats what I thought but the weird thing is the stop screw is all the way in and it's just barely NOT touching. So I can't up the idle with the stop screw.

 

Plus any time I adjust anything that bumps up the idle it will go up and then after driving for a day or so it will go back to the way it was.