ok ive tired searchin for this couldnt find anything on it, so im looking for how to make the Light to test out your tps, and the steps of how to do it, if anyone knows how would help alot thx.

 

Why would you go through the trouble to make a TPS test light when you can just test it with a multimeter?

 

because the multi meter isnt as accurate for adjustments, im not looking for the Ohmns part but adjusting it exactly were its suposed to be. the voltage readings on the multimeter are fucked.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html Make a light assy just like the one in this article. It takes two LED's from RadioShack and crimping on three spade connector on the wire ends. Try to get two seperate color lights if you can.

You can use it for a code checker or a tps setter. Basically just join the two red wires together and crimp a spade connector on the end. Then put a spade connector on each of the other two wires.

The two red wires that are joined together, should go into the green check connectors single socket and the other two wires should go into the two sockets that sit next to each other in the GREEN check connector.

Use ONLY LED's. Common light bulbs will fry the transistors in the ECU.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=29387

 

I was about to run a search on this, thanks for the info Hailers. I've been adjusting mine at teh ECU with a multimeter, but it never seems quite right and the readings change day to day, plus tearing up the carpet everytime I want to play with it is a PITA.

 

http://www.rx7turbo.com/tpsadjustment.htm

 

I went and did this, from the teamf3cs website....

Very easy, takes only a couple minutes and my dad (30 yr licensed mechanic) laughed at how easy it was.

Car runs like a champ after a little tuning

 

ok well i tried her out, and the directions call for if the two lights light up, then unscrew, if no lights screw in, my result was 2 lights lit up and i cant unscrew any farther and there still lit up, think my TPS is a goner?

also with this same LED set up can i check for error codes ? where do i plug them into?

 

multimeter is 1000% more accurate than the lights... i tore my test light apart and am trying to wire the leds to the aux. ports and vdi for cool 'engagement' effect
lol

 

When checking the tps, you are using the Green check connector? Probably.

For error codes, there is a six socket green connector near the lead coil assy. The two wires you put on a single spade, should go to the second socket from the left of the plug, top row. The other two go to the far top left and the far lower left. Go back to this site http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html and about half way down the page there is a picture of the green plug. The two wires that you tied together should go to the ABR socket and the other two to the DCC1 and DCC2. Label the lights as to which went to which socket. You need to know that when you read codes.

The codes are at that site. If you get no codes, pull your boost sensor plug off and that should show a code until you reinstall the plug.

Be sure to use 12vdc LED's. A regular bulb will fry something in the ECU.

It sounds like your tps is shot if you never got two lights. If I remember right, what I did was attach the light assy. Then turn the screw almost all the way out. Then slowly screwed it in til I got one light. Then screwed it in a bit more til I got two lights. Then gingerly turned it out until only one light was lit.

After doing this, I checked the tps plug with a meter, and I got approx 1volt.

I've also done this using the 1K at idle setup. Then checked with a meter. You get approx 1volt. Something to do with I=E/R

There is another possibility for not getting two lights. A device in the ECU could be burnt out. The device that when the tps puts out 1vdc then puts a ground one of the two sockets on the green tps check connector.

When either of the lights comes on the tps check connector, that means that either the Switching or the Relief solenoid now has a ground put on it by the ECU. Or put another way, one light represents the Relief solenoid being engergized and the other light means the switching solenoid is energized.

When you have ONE light on after setting the tps, that light should represent the Relief solenoid getting a ground and being energized.

Look at the schematic for the tps check connector and you'll see two of the sockets on the green tps check connector are tied to the Relief and Switching solenoids. This is old information that has been posted on this forum numerous times in the past.

I predict, that during the next month we will have a flurry of TPS posts. Happens each and every year. Year, after year, after year.

 

ok, so i got the two lights and when i give it throttle the 2 lights will got out, but just adjusting the screw the lights stay on at all times, i do have it in the green 3 prong, and i hope my ECU isnt fucked, but i do think that my TPS is probably messed, thx alot hailers allways a help

 

Good. The ECU is just fine then. Remember this, the car/engine MUST be fully HOT. The reason for this is a thing called the thermowax and fast idle cam. They are tied to the throttle shaft. When they move, the shaft moves. When the shaft moves, the tps reading changes.

With a fully HOT engine, the fast idle cam and thremowax don't interfere anymore with the throttle shaft and i.e. the tps setting.

 

i got the fast idle thing propped open with a screwdriver because tryin to warm up the car then take off the intercooler takes to long

 

BS, a DMM that provides an actual measurement is far more accurate than two lights. Note that the the correct "setting" (one light on) covers a significant range of adjustment.