IHookItUuup

I have been having an idle problem for some time - On occasion the car stalls out unexpectedly when I let off the throttle. I tested the BAC and it was not within spec so I changed it and this apparently improved the idle problem when the A/C is on. Next I proceeded to check the TPS setting - using a test light made from 12V LEDs. Neither of the lights turn on and if I push one of the plungers inwards slowly and incrementally (as if I were adjusting the TPS adjustment screw) one will blink on for a split second. I tried another TPS that I picked up on an Ebay auction and the same thing. Is the TPS bad?

To temporarily fix the problem I adjusted the primary butterflys so that the car idles at 1500.

Can anyone help with this problem?

bl|nk

search on REted's site. it shows the method of setting the TPS with a digital multi meter. That's how i set mine and it was a night and day difference. I believe you'll find it being more accurate then the test light way.

A-B need to have a resistance of .8-1.2 ohm i believe.

HAILERS

88 SE

You know I had this same issue. It seemed to fix itself after I unplugged the TPS then plugged it in again? Who knows.

HAILERS

And the car should be plumb HOT when you set the tps.

bl|nk

isn't the FSM a wonderful thing

IHookItUuup

I tested both of the TPS that I have and the resistance does not seem within range. Anyone have one that they would like to sell for cheap?

I am curious why no engine check light has come on with this condition? Thanks.

bl|nk

if the resistances aren't in range then you need to adjust them. You'll see a screw right under the TPS that is what you adjust to get the sensor in the perameters.

HAILERS

How far *out of range* is out of range?????? Figures please.

I know that on a series four, the codes on the whole won't come on/show, unless the connector on a sensor falls off or you have a dead short on one of the wires on the sensor. Out of range won't show a code on a series four and I doubt on a series five either.

HAILERS

If the resistance is just off a touch on the top and bottom end, and there does not seem to be any opens thru the full range of the tps, try this:

Shove the positive lead of your meter up the back side of the TPS connector where *A* is shown in the diagram above. Negative on a good ground. Set the meter to volts dc. Turn the key to the ON position. Fully hot engine by the way. Look at the meter. IF it does not show one volt, then screw the tps screw til it shows one volt.

In the above procedure, all connectors are hooked up and connected. The green check connector has nothing to do with the above procedure. There is no jumper to the initial set coupler. Just a meters positive lead in the back of the tps plug where *A * is shown in diagram in my other post above.

After you get one volt with a hot engine, idle the car and look at the output of pin A on the tps connector. It should stay at one volt plus or minus say 0.05 volts. Let it idle for say five or ten minutes and make sure it reads one volt. If not adjust til it does.

You might now shove the meter into the back of pin *E* and see how close to 0.8 volts it is. Write back with your results.