TPS adjustment problems
08-27-08, 09:09 PM
#1
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TPS adjustment problems
I have a 89 Turbo II, I am trying to adjust the TPS with using the two led light method plugged into the check connector. I warm up the car and both led's are lit up but no matter how I adjust it the lights dont change, I can manually move the plungers all the way in and out and nothing changes, I also tried unplugging the connector for the tps and the lights still dont change. Is there something I am doing wrong or is this a problem with the wiring?
08-27-08, 09:50 PM
#2
I have a 89 Turbo II, I am trying to adjust the TPS with using the two led light method plugged into the check connector. I warm up the car and both led's are lit up but no matter how I adjust it the lights dont change, I can manually move the plungers all the way in and out and nothing changes, I also tried unplugging the connector for the tps and the lights still dont change. Is there something I am doing wrong or is this a problem with the wiring?
FROM BANZAI RACING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring car up to operating temperature.
2. Plug in your TPS Tester :
o TII owners; use the 3-prong Green diagnostics connector (Picture #2) that is not plugged into anything near the oil dipstick
o N/A; use the 3-prong Green diagnostics connector (Picture #2) by the Airbox.
1. Remove the intercooler (On a TII).
2. Turn the car OFF and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The TPS Tester should light up.
3. If ONE lamp lights up, the TPS does not need adjusting.
4. Otherwise (TWO or NO lights) adjust the TPS Adjustment Screw until ONE lamp lights up; approximately 1/4 turn past the 1st light (Picture #3):
* Turn the screw counter-clockwise if both lights are lit
* Turn the screw clockwise if no lights illuminate
1. Bring car up to operating temperature.
2. Plug in your TPS Tester :
o TII owners; use the 3-prong Green diagnostics connector (Picture #2) that is not plugged into anything near the oil dipstick
o N/A; use the 3-prong Green diagnostics connector (Picture #2) by the Airbox.
1. Remove the intercooler (On a TII).
2. Turn the car OFF and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The TPS Tester should light up.
3. If ONE lamp lights up, the TPS does not need adjusting.
4. Otherwise (TWO or NO lights) adjust the TPS Adjustment Screw until ONE lamp lights up; approximately 1/4 turn past the 1st light (Picture #3):
* Turn the screw counter-clockwise if both lights are lit
* Turn the screw clockwise if no lights illuminate
08-28-08, 03:26 AM
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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The engine has to be fully HOT. The engine HAS to be idling for the LED method to work.
The two lights light up when the ECU out puts a gnd signal to the two wires on the green check connector that are not BLACK/WHITE. The BLACK/WHITE wire is power for the lights and nothing more, nothing less.
The two LED light method will not work if the engine is off because of the influence of the pressure/boost sensor i.e. not seeing a vacuum.
The two lights light up when the ECU out puts a gnd signal to the two wires on the green check connector that are not BLACK/WHITE. The BLACK/WHITE wire is power for the lights and nothing more, nothing less.
The two LED light method will not work if the engine is off because of the influence of the pressure/boost sensor i.e. not seeing a vacuum.
08-28-08, 06:01 AM
#4
The engine has to be fully HOT. The engine HAS to be idling for the LED method to work.
The two lights light up when the ECU out puts a gnd signal to the two wires on the green check connector that are not BLACK/WHITE. The BLACK/WHITE wire is power for the lights and nothing more, nothing less.
The two LED light method will not work if the engine is off because of the influence of the pressure/boost sensor i.e. not seeing a vacuum.
The two lights light up when the ECU out puts a gnd signal to the two wires on the green check connector that are not BLACK/WHITE. The BLACK/WHITE wire is power for the lights and nothing more, nothing less.
The two LED light method will not work if the engine is off because of the influence of the pressure/boost sensor i.e. not seeing a vacuum.
08-28-08, 07:37 AM
#5
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I always set the TPS by adjusting resistance to 1000 Ohms, then I'll go back and plug in the test lights to make sure only one is lit (engine not running, but ignition in the ON position). Works just fine. The only TPS test I do with the engine idling is measure the voltage at the ECU. Should be 1 volt, right?
08-28-08, 04:13 PM
#7
S5 FSM page F2-81 TPS Adjustment
1. Warm up engine then stop it.
2. Connect checker lamp to the check connector
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the throttle sensors to set the closed position voltage
4. Tighten the bolts
5. Turn the ignition switch on and check if one of the lamps illuminate.
6. If both lamps etc, etc, etc
7. Tighten the nut after adjusting.
1. Warm up engine then stop it.
2. Connect checker lamp to the check connector
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the throttle sensors to set the closed position voltage
4. Tighten the bolts
5. Turn the ignition switch on and check if one of the lamps illuminate.
6. If both lamps etc, etc, etc
7. Tighten the nut after adjusting.
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08-28-08, 06:00 PM
#8
HAILERS
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Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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S5 FSM page F2-81 TPS Adjustment
1. Warm up engine then stop it.
2. Connect checker lamp to the check connector
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the throttle sensors to set the closed position voltage
4. Tighten the bolts
5. Turn the ignition switch on and check if one of the lamps illuminate.
6. If both lamps etc, etc, etc
7. Tighten the nut after adjusting.
1. Warm up engine then stop it.
2. Connect checker lamp to the check connector
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and move the throttle sensors to set the closed position voltage
4. Tighten the bolts
5. Turn the ignition switch on and check if one of the lamps illuminate.
6. If both lamps etc, etc, etc
7. Tighten the nut after adjusting.
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-28-08 at 06:19 PM.
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