zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

what its doing was this. It would start then die off right away. So I replaced gaskets. The upper, lower intake and some of the turbo lines. Now all it does is crank. It wants to start but wont. Like sometimes if i hold the key down it will sorta start and hold at 300rpms then after a few secs die out. Its has good compression 90 and above, it has fuel and spark. Tho 3/4 of spark plugs had use on them but the lower rear was pretty much clean. Leading me to believe 1 of my injectors might not be getting power, a signal or is clogged. Also my o2 sensor is black and the wires bare on the end, idk if that would cause starting issues It's had this problem for the longest time of not starting. I've had it rebuilt, and front cover internals replaced also. I've had a few threads about this and nothing helped.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

My bad, nvm.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the AFM is not plugged in properly. You could try to jumper the fuel check connector and see if this makes a difference. You could also check the Brown colored wire at the TPS w/key to on and it should read 5 volts. If it has virtually no voltage then this would reaffirm that the AFM is not plugged in properly.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

I know it hooked up i heard it click when i put it on. I'll check again. I'm working on it right now about to change my CAS to a spare one i have.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

Update:

Changed CAS, Retimed the car. Jumped the yellow plug with the rubber cap, changed some of the vac T's to a Y. Started right up. Then died the sec it hit around 1500 rpms, that was with my N338 ECU. Tried the N332 with the Rtek 2.1 in it didnt start untill I had the petal to the floor. Then it did the whole semi running with the key in the start position, finally caught. Ran fine till i went to close my hood and boom the sec it hit around 1500 rpms it died. Wouldnt start again after that. Then it started to crank for about 3-4 sec then backfire, then it did it again around 3-6 secs after the first back fire. So I think i have vac leak. Now I just have to find it. But what do you all think? I'm just happy it started first time in like 5 months.

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

My first thought is vac leak. There are numerous vacuum connection point that can be missed during an inspection, and especially when you remove/re-install the LIM/UIM. My suggestion would be to use the FSM and verify all lines are hooked up and not cracked or broken.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

Fsm?

marclong

iTrader: (1)

Fsm- factory service manual. Sounds like it might be flooded too.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

dont have that, n i know its not flooded. I did the long deflood method, i took out sparkplugs n what not

therotorrooter

iTrader: (4)

The rtek has the flood feature built in....hold it to the floor...it cuts the fuel. I started my engine without the O2 plugged in... started fine. I forgot to plug it back in after changing exhaust. I would highly suggest getting the fuel injectors cleaned...I'm glad I had that done. I had to swap out the TPS too, idled real irratic.... also be sure to check to make sure non of your air inlet hoses running between MAF sensor and the throttle body are broken or cracked and all lines are hooked up correctly.... that will make your car run like total crap.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

idk what hoses I have. If I had another rx7 next to me it help out alot..lol. I was going to clean them since I was gonna get 860/720's at some point. I have a extra tps. I just dont feel like taking off the UIM. I just put a new gasket on it. I know 1 of my injectors is missing the metal clip holder on it, so it might b that

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

I'd like to add that it ran fine as long as i kept it 2k and over

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

I ment 860/1000, Because ill be putting in the Stage 4 turbo build from BNR.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

ok well. Is the ground supposed to get super hot to the touch? cause I was trying to start my car for about 5 or so minutes then smelled a funny burning smell and heard a sizzling sound. Looked in the area of the smell and sound and saw a ground wire was not connected. Any way the car will start when i unplug the fuel pump and will run for about 5 secs then die off. I'm having my spare injectors cleaned and flow tested. I hope that works.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Which ground wire?

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

the one that is on the transmission, its a little black box

satch

iTrader: (1)

That's a condenser and not a ground. If the black box that is similar in appearance to a computer chip falls off don't ground just the wire as it will damage the circuit.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

its this box

satch

iTrader: (1)

^ That would be one of the two condensers. One for the ignition coil/injector circuit and the other for the oil pressure gauge.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

soooo where would i get another 1?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You don't really need another just don't ground the wire itself if the tab falls off for either circuit.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

ahh ok, ya i no it hit metal, that coulda been the funny burning smell. Also it starts when i disconnect the fuel pump, but only for like 10 secs

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

also forgot to add the my negative terminal got wicked hot to the touch and it never did that before

satch

iTrader: (1)

Resistance can cause your problem such that a poor/loose connection will cause the cable to heat up which would possibly be rectified by removing the negative battery terminal and cleaning the terminal and post til it is like new and also clean up the area along the fender which is a contact point for the ground cable and then clean up the contact area at the starter as well.

zoneman2

iTrader: (8)

ahh ok. Well its a new battery and connector. So its no that, but I'll look into the other ground points tho. Thanks.