I am in the planning stages for my 13B rebuild this coming winter. I am starting to look at what pieces and parts I need to buy to build the best engine possible.

If you're going to do it, you might as well do it right....

I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)

Used housings for cost reduction (something with under 100k miles and no damage)

3rd gen stationary gears

3rd gen side & corner seals

Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)

Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm

85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)

Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary


Now, this list probably either has some flaws due to incompatibilities or there could be a better option for something. That is why I am posting, to get some advice from those of you that have rebuilt engines. What components will take the most abuse.

This engine will end-up with some form of forced induction (be it turbo or SC) but lets not get into which one or why.....too many threads have covered that.

 

I am also looking for any suggestions on porting templates, apex seals (where to buy good ones), etc.

Shoot me any constructive critism

 

Buy brand new rotor housings.

 

Cant agree with you more!

And since your doing it right man....

Better get signed up with www.mazdamotorsports.com

Save some cash!

How are 3rd gen side seals different than FC ones?

James

 

There shouldn't be a difference between FC and FD side seals. The corner seal springs are different though. Most "aftermarket" rebuild kits include 3rd gen corner seal springs over the older inferior springs.

If you want to do it right, you may as well drop money into some OEM 3MM seals.

To be honest, i don't see why you are stuck on using 3mm seals though.

-Justin

 

New rotor bearings!

New bearings are cheap and a good idea. Why not get RX8 stationary gears instead of 3rd gen? Unless you're talking USED 3rd gen ones, then those are probably cheaper than new rx8 ones (even though they aren't that expensive).

If you're going with the largest port you can, get solid corner seals. FD side seals aren't any different, and if you're getting new ones make sure you know how to cut and clearance them properly.

 

definitely the solid atkins corner seals and FD corner seal springs. i've used them in both my rebuilds and they've been great.

 

I would love to get new housings, maybe I can find a way to swing it by using some tax return money

Thank you all so far for the advice

Here's an updated list of parts:

I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)

New housings

RX-8 stationary gears

Atkins solid corner seals & 3rd Gen corner seal springs

Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)

Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm

85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)

Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary

New rotor bearings

I am not so much "hung up" on the 3mm apex seals, but I have read that they take to high psi boosting better than 2mm ones will. I am sure that, properly tuned, an engine with 2mm seals will hold up just fine though.

What do you guys think?

 

So are you planning to boost this motor??

Unless you are planning to run high boost numbers (18PSI++), Then i wouldn't even consider 3mm seals unless your apex seal grooves are worn. The 2mm seals will seal much better at lower RPM's then the 3mm seals.


good luck

Justin

 

Why new rotor bearings? New rotor bearings are totally un needed unless the ones you are reusing are showing a lot of copper....

Total waste of time esp. when you factor in the increased breakin time new rotor bearings require.

The guys over at www.mazdamotorsports.com agree....
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...t=rotorbearing

And on the 2mm and 3mm apex seals...

There are PLENTY of people making amazing power on oem 2mm seals. That alone is enough for me to stick with 2mm.

James

 

use as many Renesis parts as you can

ditto on the comments of 3mm seals. i don't know why people keep thinking they are better no matter what.

- Aaron

 

I read someplace that high boosting engines seem to last longer on the 3mm seals.

But I never read what the "unofficial" line was for 2mm to 3mm. If 2mm can handle 15-18 psi without problems, then I have nothing to worry about and can stick with 2mm apex seals.

The bearings will be replaced if they are bad. I will try to reuse as many parts as I can from my 2 spare engines. Both have dropped a rotor, but I am hoping to be able to get a set of good rotors (depending on weights) and maybe just need a set of rotor housings.

Officially, this motor will be boosted eventually. Maybe not upon its first firing. I may break it in before strapping a turbo or SC to it. But I am definitely going to build the engine to handle as much power as possible. I would rather have the engine built strong and not break a sweat than constantly push the engine to its limits.