The "Top-Shelf" internals to use on a new rebuild....
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The "Top-Shelf" internals to use on a new rebuild....
I am in the planning stages for my 13B rebuild this coming winter. I am starting to look at what pieces and parts I need to buy to build the best engine possible.
If you're going to do it, you might as well do it right....
I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)
Used housings for cost reduction (something with under 100k miles and no damage)
3rd gen stationary gears
3rd gen side & corner seals
Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)
Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm
85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)
Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary
Now, this list probably either has some flaws due to incompatibilities or there could be a better option for something. That is why I am posting, to get some advice from those of you that have rebuilt engines. What components will take the most abuse.
This engine will end-up with some form of forced induction (be it turbo or SC) but lets not get into which one or why.....too many threads have covered that.
If you're going to do it, you might as well do it right....
I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)
Used housings for cost reduction (something with under 100k miles and no damage)
3rd gen stationary gears
3rd gen side & corner seals
Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)
Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm
85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)
Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary
Now, this list probably either has some flaws due to incompatibilities or there could be a better option for something. That is why I am posting, to get some advice from those of you that have rebuilt engines. What components will take the most abuse.
This engine will end-up with some form of forced induction (be it turbo or SC) but lets not get into which one or why.....too many threads have covered that.
#4
Haven't we ALL heard this
Cant agree with you more!
And since your doing it right man....
Better get signed up with www.mazdamotorsports.com
Save some cash!
How are 3rd gen side seals different than FC ones?
James
And since your doing it right man....
Better get signed up with www.mazdamotorsports.com
Save some cash!
How are 3rd gen side seals different than FC ones?
James
#5
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There shouldn't be a difference between FC and FD side seals. The corner seal springs are different though. Most "aftermarket" rebuild kits include 3rd gen corner seal springs over the older inferior springs.
If you want to do it right, you may as well drop money into some OEM 3MM seals.
To be honest, i don't see why you are stuck on using 3mm seals though.
-Justin
If you want to do it right, you may as well drop money into some OEM 3MM seals.
To be honest, i don't see why you are stuck on using 3mm seals though.
-Justin
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New rotor bearings!
New bearings are cheap and a good idea. Why not get RX8 stationary gears instead of 3rd gen? Unless you're talking USED 3rd gen ones, then those are probably cheaper than new rx8 ones (even though they aren't that expensive).
If you're going with the largest port you can, get solid corner seals. FD side seals aren't any different, and if you're getting new ones make sure you know how to cut and clearance them properly.
New bearings are cheap and a good idea. Why not get RX8 stationary gears instead of 3rd gen? Unless you're talking USED 3rd gen ones, then those are probably cheaper than new rx8 ones (even though they aren't that expensive).
If you're going with the largest port you can, get solid corner seals. FD side seals aren't any different, and if you're getting new ones make sure you know how to cut and clearance them properly.
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I would love to get new housings, maybe I can find a way to swing it by using some tax return money
Thank you all so far for the advice
Here's an updated list of parts:
I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)
New housings
RX-8 stationary gears
Atkins solid corner seals & 3rd Gen corner seal springs
Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)
Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm
85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)
Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary
New rotor bearings
I am not so much "hung up" on the 3mm apex seals, but I have read that they take to high psi boosting better than 2mm ones will. I am sure that, properly tuned, an engine with 2mm seals will hold up just fine though.
What do you guys think?
Thank you all so far for the advice
Here's an updated list of parts:
I am looking at using 13B rotors from a pre-85 engine w/ 3mm apex seals (unless I can find a shop willing to mill mine to 3mm for less than used rotors and counterweights)
New housings
RX-8 stationary gears
Atkins solid corner seals & 3rd Gen corner seal springs
Aftermarket 3mm steel apex seals (engine has to last, no carbon apex seals)
Largest port job I can manage while still keeping the car's ability to idle under 1500 rpm
85psi oil pressure regulater & Atkins Rotary thermal pellet plug (reusing from current engine)
Obviously new gaskets/o-rings everywhere necessary
New rotor bearings
I am not so much "hung up" on the 3mm apex seals, but I have read that they take to high psi boosting better than 2mm ones will. I am sure that, properly tuned, an engine with 2mm seals will hold up just fine though.
What do you guys think?
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Originally Posted by Audiofight
I am not so much "hung up" on the 3mm apex seals, but I have read that they take to high psi boosting better than 2mm ones will. I am sure that, properly tuned, an engine with 2mm seals will hold up just fine though.
So are you planning to boost this motor??
Unless you are planning to run high boost numbers (18PSI++), Then i wouldn't even consider 3mm seals unless your apex seal grooves are worn. The 2mm seals will seal much better at lower RPM's then the 3mm seals.
good luck
Justin
#10
Haven't we ALL heard this
Why new rotor bearings? New rotor bearings are totally un needed unless the ones you are reusing are showing a lot of copper....
Total waste of time esp. when you factor in the increased breakin time new rotor bearings require.
The guys over at www.mazdamotorsports.com agree....
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...t=rotorbearing
And on the 2mm and 3mm apex seals...
There are PLENTY of people making amazing power on oem 2mm seals. That alone is enough for me to stick with 2mm.
James
Total waste of time esp. when you factor in the increased breakin time new rotor bearings require.
The guys over at www.mazdamotorsports.com agree....
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...t=rotorbearing
And on the 2mm and 3mm apex seals...
There are PLENTY of people making amazing power on oem 2mm seals. That alone is enough for me to stick with 2mm.
James
Last edited by Wankel7; 07-18-05 at 02:14 PM.
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I read someplace that high boosting engines seem to last longer on the 3mm seals.
But I never read what the "unofficial" line was for 2mm to 3mm. If 2mm can handle 15-18 psi without problems, then I have nothing to worry about and can stick with 2mm apex seals.
The bearings will be replaced if they are bad. I will try to reuse as many parts as I can from my 2 spare engines. Both have dropped a rotor, but I am hoping to be able to get a set of good rotors (depending on weights) and maybe just need a set of rotor housings.
Officially, this motor will be boosted eventually. Maybe not upon its first firing. I may break it in before strapping a turbo or SC to it. But I am definitely going to build the engine to handle as much power as possible. I would rather have the engine built strong and not break a sweat than constantly push the engine to its limits.
But I never read what the "unofficial" line was for 2mm to 3mm. If 2mm can handle 15-18 psi without problems, then I have nothing to worry about and can stick with 2mm apex seals.
The bearings will be replaced if they are bad. I will try to reuse as many parts as I can from my 2 spare engines. Both have dropped a rotor, but I am hoping to be able to get a set of good rotors (depending on weights) and maybe just need a set of rotor housings.
Officially, this motor will be boosted eventually. Maybe not upon its first firing. I may break it in before strapping a turbo or SC to it. But I am definitely going to build the engine to handle as much power as possible. I would rather have the engine built strong and not break a sweat than constantly push the engine to its limits.
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