Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

Got a fresh rebuilt s4 turbo motor by me, my seventh one. Got motor in, hard to start, but able to start. When running it has no power, rough idle,revs slow and smeel like its running really rich. Checked with timming light and at 800 rpms the leading mark is like a inch and a half away from pointer. I turn crank sensor all the way in the advanced direction it makes no difference in timming. Double checked the crank sensor gear, beveled edge towards motor, i am 100 percent i timed it right, tried different sensors from good running cars and same thing. Anyone have any ideas. I am stumped on this one. Feel like taking a bat to this car. Oh by the way its all stock. Thanks

HAILERS2

You turn the CAS and, using a timing light, nothing changes. Odd.

Any chance the pulley isn't the one that came with the engine. Like off another series?

Kinda sounds like it's running on one rotor only. Or trails are crossed.

I've no real idea.

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

I can only get the timing to advance a little bit. When i fully advance it is still bout a inch way from pointer. Car was fine before it blew. Is it possible the knock control unit can cause this?

HAILERS2

Not likely. Just pull the plug off the Knock Box to be sure.

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Don't you have to jumper the initial set coupler, when checking timing?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

You checked the gear on the eccentric shaft, but did you line up the CAS gear to the CAS shaft with the engine lined up to the leading mark before putting the CAS in?

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

Yup, this is the seventh motor ive rebuilt so im quiet sure my timing is right. This is definitly an electrical issue. Tried a spare knock box and ecu. Same deal. Its got to be either pressure sensor or map sensor. Its definetly getting to much fuel. Is there a spec for checking map sensors and pressure sensors?

solareon

iTrader: (1)

if below 1k rpms the stock ecu will always bring the timing down to 5atdc leading and 20atdc trailing.

If it is not there then you have the cas gear off by a tooth or you used the wrong hub on the eshaft. Mazda just drilled 4 holes into each hub so they don't match between eshafts. It's pretty simple