eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Ok so my timing was off by alot (retarded), maybe as much as 15 degrees or so. The idles speed before I satrted to adjust it was right at 750 rpm. I proceded to adjust the timing and the closet I could get it was maybe aorund 7-10 degrees retarded (the CAS was at it furthest point), at that point the idle speed was up about 900 rpm.

I then took the CAS out and adjusted the marks on the pulley and the dimple on the CAS(did a search and tried the way Hailers adjusted it by removing the top of the CAS and making sure it is aligned right). I then put it back in and continue adjusting the timing. This time the timing was advanced maybe 10 degrees (idle at about 1300rpm). I backed it down to where the leading was aligned with the pin and the idles only went down to about 1025-1050 rpm.

I though then maybe I should check the TPS and make sure it was alright. Well it was done around 700 ohms, so I bumped it up to 1k. Went back to check the timing, the idle was still high and the timing was back to advanced, with AFRS in the 16.5-17:1 range. I backed it down to spec again and the idle was still at about 1025-1050rpm , with AFRS at about 15.6:1. Went back to check the TPS two more times with the same thing having to adjust it from about 800 ohms to 1k, and again the timing was advanced again.

It was idle good then when I was trying to get the timing right it jumped up. I also tried to adjust the idle air fuel mixture screw, but it would either cause it to lean out or richen and raise the idle...

So what did I do wrong?

HAILERS

The timing has to be set with the idle speed under 1000 rpms, preferably in the 750 range. Try installing the initial set coupler and see if the rpms will drop down well below 1000 and closer to 750. Also for extra measure, pull the bac plug off.

When the engine speed reaches a speed just over 1000 rpms, it will self advance about 15 degrees. Thats reason enough to set the timing well below 1000 rpm.

Also the engine should be hot. When cold, the timing is retarded til the engine heats up. See the FSM for proof about that.

1. Initial set coupler installed
2. Bac plug off for extra measure
3. Engine speed below 1000 rpm
4. Fully heated engine.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I prefer 850, that extra 100 rpms makes a world of difference...

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Hmmm never saw anything about the initial set coupler and bac valve plug removal in the FSM. Where is the initial set coupler?

HAILERS

The initial set coupler IS mentioned. The removal of the bac plug IS NOT. That's just this lazy man's method of adjusting the idle without installing the initial set coupler.

IMHO (if I have a HO, then I must have a dishonest opinion?? DO??) the installlation of the initial set coupler is to null out the bac so that the adjustments being made to the idle won't be constantly be responded to by the ECU by it making the bac open/close further. Hope that made sense.

Anyway, the manual does have you install the initial set coupler which in turn nulls the bac so it won't respond to your adjustments while you are adjusting.

The timing WILL advance about fifteen degrees when the rpm are raised over 1000/1100 rpm. Watch the timing marks carefully with a timing light sometime as you slowly raise the rpm above those rpms. It'll jump and advance. Your problem is that you'll have to get the rpms down below say 900 before you can experiience that.

HAILERS

Well, ****. The more I think about it I question if the initial set coupler is supposed to be installed when doing the timing.

Installed for IDLE...YES. It says to do so for the reasons I mentioned.

Timing......I admit for timing I never install it. Some folk say the fsm says to do so. I never do it for the timing. Hey, I just woke up, give me a break.

AS far as I'm concerned the timing can be set anywhere below about 1000/1100 rpm and it won't be any different at 400 than 900 rpm. I mentioned the jump at 1000/1100 rpm just to let you know at that rpm the ECU will start playing tricks on you. Also a COLD engine will mess with you til it warms up. The FSM mentions the retardation when the engine is cold (Relationship Chart).

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Sorry I am at work right now and I do not have the FSM in front of, but where is the initial set coupler?

I assume the initial set coupler will bring my idle down toaround the 750rpm mark? Because for the life of me I cannot get it to come down anyfurther.

Like I said before, it was idling alot better before I pulled CAS to adjust it further...

Kenteth

green single connector off the trailing coil


btw for the other guy IMHO, h is humble, not honest you could technicaly be humble and not honest

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The ISC is not required to be jumpered for timing.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Ok I was looking over the part of setting the ISC in the FSM (my bad I actually new what that wa, LOL), the ISC is required BEFORE you starting messing with the timing.

Now it said to have a tach hooked up in the engine bay, how necessry is that? Can I have some one watch the tac from in the car? Also what screw do I adjust? The screw for the TPS?

With the ISC do I jump the one on the trailing or the leading or both (one after the other?)? or does it make a difference?

Lastly I assume I get the idle speed as close to 750 as possible, then reconnect the BAC and fine tune the idle speed with the BAC and then adjust the timing correct? IS there anything I need to be worried about (knocking?) since right now the timing is set for idle at 1100rpm?

neptuneRX

"Also the engine should be hot. When cold, the timing is retarded til the engine heats up. See the FSM for proof about that."

Holy crap that explains why my timing is all fucked up. Thanks

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Ahhhh I know that! thats a given for almost eveything, tps, timing, compression, fuel pressure, vac leaks, etc, etc....

neptuneRX

well I didn't know that.... I check TPS, it was ok, check compression, it came out 91 front, 86 rear (it aint the seals) fuel pressure... um, that might have gone down the crapper but we'll fine out when I add gas to the tank.... no vac leaks I checked 10times, even gonna replace all the tubes next time.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Ok I just got finished adjusting the idle and timeing and took her for a spin! OH MY GOD!!! Its like abrand new car!!!

Although I did have sort of alittle problem. The BAC valve is competely turned in and and the air fuel mixture was turned all the way to reach, (it was the only way I could get it close to stoich) the idles was at about 850 or so with the timing spot on. So I decided to retard the timing just a bit. Instead of the pin and the center of the yellow/red line being lined up, its now set up so that the pin is just on the edge of the left side of the yellow/red lines. And how it idles great at 750, and when I trun the wheel step on the brake and have the heater running I can hear the bac click and the idle just drops maybe 50 rpms and come right back!

ERAUMAZDA

I thought u had 0 psi in the rear. Whats the point of setting the timing

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

That was my old engine from october. I had installed a reman....

HAILERS

*****With the ISC do I jump the one on the trailing or the leading or both (one after the other?)? or does it make a difference?****

BE CAREFUL, PLEASE. The initial set coupler is NOT the bullet connector attached to the LEAD or TRAIL coil assy's. NEVER EVER GROUNG EITHER OF THOSE BLACK BULLET CONNECTORS.

On a series four the initial set coupler is a green, two socket connector near the Lead coil assy. On a series five its a single socket connector near the LEAD coil assy but I have never even seen a series five car so I don't know the color etc.

wes_c

So what happens when you accidentally ground one of the black bullet connectors?

Mint87RX7

if you ground that then your coil is no good and it would probly start a fire lol.

just reviving the thread to see if anyoneknows any realy good threads or websites for info on timing and octane and crap. i have been advancing my timing like 40* and would realy like to learn a lot more on the hole idea of what you can do and cant do and how fuel affects it.