Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

I have a 88 non turbo with 6k mile on the motor. The motor is street ported, intake ported, header, presilencer, n1 duals, pineapple racing sleeves wired open, cone air filter, no emissions, and t2 fuel pump. With all these mods, it feels kinda slow. What is the most i should i advance the timing at to get best performance? I have messed around with it some, but haven't had a whole lot of luck. Also, what kind of HP should i be looking at with these mods? Thanks in advance....

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

It also has ported t2 rotor housings.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

I know somebody out there has an answer. Come on guys!!!

rotary>piston

get your sleeves working properly, that'll help.

kleach18

I wouldn't touch it, what injectors are you running? Stock. get a air/fuel gauge before so you know if you will run lean.

BlackRx7

adjusting the timing is very dangerous if you don't know what to do and and with out a wideband O2 sensor an a/f gauge won't get you anywhere, though they are good to have as a problem solving tool

BTW my 88 TII is running stock timmings

88IntegraLS

The general rule is advanced timing makes high rpm power while stock timing makes better low end torque. If you have a standalone fuel management system you can get on a dyno and have the tuner set the perfect timing for any rpm . . . and they have tailpipe sniffers to show when the fuel map is getting too lean.

With an open exhaust, wired open sixth ports and a street port like you have, you will probably feel less low end torque than stock. Your setup should pull well above 4-5000rpm though. Streetports are not all the same. Some are good and some are very bad. Who did the porting?

With those mods I would guess anywhere between 110-150 rwhp, depending on the details of the mods.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i still have the stock injectors. Just got them cleaned and blueprinted less then 1k miles ago so i know they arn't clogged. I'm going to be adding an safc to my list of mods soon so that will help out a lot with the mixture issue. It winds up really quick, it just feels kinda flat on the top end. Right now i am in the process of putting a leight weight steel flywheel in and 4 puck act clutch. I was thinking that my clutch might have been slipping do to the fact that it does wind so quickly and the clutch never has felt exactly right. I haven't had the car to the track yet, but i have raced guys that claimed they were running low 15's and hung right with em'. But i'm not happy with low 15's. Some local rotary guys keep on telling me that i sould be running at least low 14's. It seems like there is just one think that is missing, just can't figure out what that one thing is. I know i have plenty of fuel and air, and the exhaust is wide open wich is why i have the 6th ports wired open cus there isn't enough back pressure. I just keep on thinking that it must be a timing issue. One guy i know that races his 7 pretty often says he turns his cas all the way before he races and he can tell a huge difference. When i do that, i can tell no difference at all. Dosn't make any since to me.

88IntegraLS

The consensus is that low 14s NA is very, very good. Don't beat yourself up if your car is not quite there yet. It takes fine tuning to get any car to its peak.

pengarufoo

I have those mods and more, but my goal is 13's, ~200HP at the wheels.

MURX

Do you guys really have any idea how much is involved in making an N/A second gen into the 13s? It is ALOT more work than just some bolt ons. Hell to an N/A in the low 14s require a ton of work and an excellent driver. Unless you guys are running PP or Monster ports engines which I doubt I think you guys are over estimating your cars a bit.

Also
ported intake manifolds = lower torque
wired aux ports = lower torque
street port = maybe or maybe not lower torque, depends on who ported it.

If you add a lightwight Flywheel, you it will also "feel" as though you lost some torque, though you will rev faster.

Try to get it dynoed if possible.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Put the stock NA fuel pump back in.

That should help lean it out a bit and so add power.

Most dyno modded NAs use the SAFC to LEAN out the AF ratio- not richen it.

Remapped NA ECUs were known for very aggressive timing advance, but I believe it is not just advanced across the board, but rather a more aggressive bottom end curve.

Time for a wideband and a dyno!

pengarufoo

getting a street port putting out over 200HP is not terribly difficult, getting a FC down to ~2300lbs is not terribly difficult either.

put the two together and you start getting around 13 seconds, at that point driver is the major variable.

88IntegraLS

The big challenge is getting all that out of a daily driver. I don't think too many FC's have gotten there . . . reminds me of that hacked Sentra that got into the 14's by virtue of weight reduction and lack of an exhaust system. They cut up the body so much that it looked like a Kart!

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

15 degrees or so

pengarufoo

It all depends on what you need to have a comfortable daily driver.

My car has no HVAC, stock dash gone, no sound deadening material, power steering, it's totally stripped... I'm perfectly ok with that, it actually makes the car much easier to work on and I never used most of the BS anyways.

the dash alone weighs 40lbs.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

If i take my car and get it dyno'd, is it safe to set the timing to where i get the most horsepower?