ok so ive got a rebuild s4 13b n/a engine and i think i have timing issues and no timing marks on the pullys. Im woundering if anyone knows at what rovoltuion the rotor is at in degrees when allinged with the yellow timing mark on the pully? If you put your pully to the yellow timing mark take out the L and T plugs from cylender one aand use a mirror and some light where is the point of the rotor? is it in the middle of the spark plus port on L or T or is it inbetween(TDC)??? please help

 

in between.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

At the bottom of that site, in YELLOW, if you read that and do that............you'll be close. NOT for a series five engine 'cause they moved the sparkplug holes a bit.

 

ok thank you i took a look at the section in yellow and it says to removed the plugs from the rear rotor plugs..it that the #2 cylinder? and just to verify when putting the CAS in the #1 rotor should be at TDC?

 

Yes, number one will be at TDC if the instructions are followed by looking at the apex seal in the number two rotor.

Another unpopular but more accurate way to find TDC............remove all sparkplugs. Install clear poly tubing in the top and bottom sparkplug holes for number one rotor. Squirt can oil into the lower poly tubing until oil flows out the top poly tubing. Let the oil rise in both tubes for several inches and then stop squirting. Leave about three inches at the top of each tube with NO oil in it.

Hand rotate the front pulley gently back and forth. Determine which direction causes the oil in the two tubes to RISE up in the tube. Rotate in that direction util the oil starts to FALL in the tubes.

When you reach the point the oil starts to fall..........that is TDC. So at that point, go incrementaly back and forth with the front pulley til you find the sweet point where the oil JUST starts to fall in the tubing.

At that point, mark the pulley just opposite your fixed pointer on the front cover. Now repeat this process at least three times til your assured that you get the SAME result each and every time. That is TDC with no ifs ands or butts. Works on series one, two, three, four, five, six, seven and eight RX-7.

The clear poly or vinyl tubing I buy at the hardware store will screw into the sparkplug holes with ease and seal when screwed into the sparkplug holes. Done

Easier to use some two stroke oil that you can buy by the gallon from WalMart for cheap bucks. That oil has COLOR to it to ease your determining when the oil has risen to the top and starts to fall in the tubing.

It's messy and when the car starts it will smoke for a bit 'cause some oil seeps past the apex seals/other seals and gets into the exhaust passage where large amounts of hot exhaust gasses burn everything in site when the engine is started.

The words above .."squirt can oil"........means buy a oil squirt can to squirt oil into the tubing to fill the tubes and rotor combustion chamber to full.

Process does NOT apply to piston engines 'cause they have poppet valves and it won't a worka on them thar engines.

 

So to clarify, where is the lead timing mark on the pulley--at TDC or 5 ATDC?

 

leading mark on an FC is 5 After TDC, or -5 Before TDC.

i've checked every engine i've built in the last few years, during the mock up phase, i'll put the eshaft and rotor on TDC, put the front cover and pulley on to check, and so far they have all been right.

 

^^Thanks, just wanted to make sure this was clear to the OP.

 

There are marks on the pulleys. The paint may have worn off, but there are two little dents in the rear most sheave of the pulley. You might need to wire wheel all the rust off to see them.

I'm fairly sure that TDC is achieved when the eccentric keyway faces the exhaust ports.

 

that is correct too. when the key ways are at 9 oclock, when you are facing the front of the engine, rotor #1 is on TDC.

 

So if you facing the engine from the front of the car and Im timing the car with a light on L1, I should be working off the right notch on the pulley, correct? I have no paint on mine.

 

Correct, first notch on right is for leading while second notch, further left, is for trailing, and did you get your hazard circuit board for the CPU yet?

 

CPU should be here this week. I timed the car again, have 100 miles on the rebuild now, and its idle is dead on. Starts a lot easier as well. It was retarded a few degrees before.