Ryan Moore

Hi, I have a rx4 with Turbo engine II engine and Haltek. I just bought a used JDM, 89-92 engine, and the car used to have a 87-88 engine in it but I cracked a water jacket about 6 years ago. My problem is when I install the crank angle sensor with everything lined up like the manual says, the car starts and idles, but when I hit it with a timing light, the marks show up about 45 degrees clockwise on the pully, almost underneath were I can barley see them. If I manipulate the CAS to get the timing marks on the pully closer to the front cover mark, the car wont idle at all, and are still no were near were they should be, the closer I get the worse it runs, hitting on one chamber.. I have gone over it a dozen times. I tried the pully and CAS off the 87 motor, and the pully and CAS off the 90 motor and get the same results. This probly sounds really dumb, but is the number 1 chamber the front one? maybe I am hooked up wrong. I can't figure it out after hours of working on it and reading manuals.

Ryan Moore

Ive been workin on this for 2 days straight now, still no solution. does anyone have any tips or know someone in the bay area ca that works on turbo rx7 haltek? I have gone over it 50 times, found tdc using the spark plug hole method, and nothing, still cant time it, runs like garbage on one lung when the CAS is installed correctly. only runs when it is a tooth advanced, but sputters and backfires when it revs up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you using the front leading plug to set timing when using the timing light? Is your TPS set correctly? What does it idle at rpm wise? The timing advances above 1100 rpm.

Ryan Moore

I am not sure about the tps, it was before I changed the block. ran good. I can't plug the haltek into my laptop now becuase it has some old school conector, and I don't have the laptop I used 15 years ago when I put the haltek on, so I can't check it. Gonna try to find a usb adapter for the cable today. I am using front leadin.

satch

iTrader: (1)

But the timing advances when the rpm is above 1100 rpm. What does yours idle at? The Green/Red wire at the TPS is supposed to read 1 volt w/key to on and the engine as warm as it can get. You could press downward on the linkage as far as it will go at the Fast Idle Cam and this will simulate a fully warmed engine.

Ryan Moore

my volt meter is dead too. huritn down here. goin on a parts run right now.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you certain you have the spark plug wires running to the correct plugs? Leading plugs are the lower ones thus the trailing are the upper plugs. And you just don't want to respond to the idle speed question. Why?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you cant set the timing unless you know what the haltek is set to, you need to hook it up to the laptop and follow the instructions to zero the timing.

Ryan Moore

the idle varies depending on were I have the CAS set. from 600 on one lung, to 1200 on both. I have gone over the plug wires 20 times, looks correct. I can't comunicate with the E6K because I tossed the laptop I used to set it up, 12 years ago, and the 3 laptops I have now won't comunicate because of the serial cable. still doing research on that issue. maybe my map got erased somehow from sitting so long with no battery hooked up???

Ryan Moore

I can't comunicate with the haltek, no support since it is so old. trying to resarch how to hook it up for a modern computer.

Ryan Moore

I got the haltek hooked up finally. Not sure how to zero the timing, but could that get changed from its previous settings? I just changed the block, not sure how that could throw the computer out of wack.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/up.../E6KManual.pdf

changing the block shouldn't have done anything, but the last engine might have had a different setting on the CAS, and it might have been in a different place, cause you can set that to whatever you want in the haltek.

and since the ecu has a timing map, it might not idle at stock either

Ryan Moore

I got it running, not sure what was the cause still. i ended up skipping teeth from the stock setting, and it got better and better. Now the marks line up with the needle when I hit it with a light, but looks nothing like the angle all the pics show when the CAS is installed. runs good now though!! time to go for a drive.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that's because you don't have the stock ecu!

walken

iTrader: (6)

The HITman - Haltech Installation

Ryan Moore

Yeah, I figured that out the long way. It has been so long since I installed the haltek, i didn't remember having to put the cas at such a different angle. Car runs good again, but the clutch slips when the boost kicks in, more work to do, lol. It feels good to drive it again though, its been about 8 years, and back then it was 3 different colors. Now its stock olive green, put back together, and driving again! what a project. I am sure I will be back on here for more advice, the motor is all stock and I want to add front mount intercooler and get it tuned by a pro. There is an insane amount of knowledge on this forum, mind boggling reading through some of the posts. thanks for the help! check out some pics of the car

https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-o...ation-1002655/

Ryan Moore

good link, thanks.