timing help
07-06-10, 09:22 PM
#1
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timing help
ok so using the forums from my phone in garage, no pc around ... my car will not start using the predetermined timing marks, but will run at ~90 degrees offset to the marks, my question is anyone have a different way to set the timing , since i cant use a light because i have no reference point, and when it runs its running at liek 2k rpm... btw 88 vert t2 swapped, running off a vert ecu (till t2 ecu comes in ) any ideas would vbe appreciated
07-06-10, 09:28 PM
#2
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Front pulley put on not quite right? The four small bolts are supposed to align only in one pattern but maybe someone wallowed out the holes so the pulley will go on 90* out.
07-07-10, 01:40 PM
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please elaborate ?
its a rebuilt engine with 0 miles from member kahren, came just as a short block and i assembled the rest of the engine, and after removing the pulley and trying another i had as a spare it still has the same issue
its a rebuilt engine with 0 miles from member kahren, came just as a short block and i assembled the rest of the engine, and after removing the pulley and trying another i had as a spare it still has the same issue
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07-08-10, 03:19 PM
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Align the LEAD mark on the pulley with the fixed pin on the front cover.
Remove the flat black cover on top of the CAS held with two screws.
Look at the rotor of the CAS and how it has two *pointers* on its top area.
Then look at my attached jpg. The pointers should be cutting across the corners of the square looking, black, reluctors. IF so, then the CAS is installed right. IF not, then unlock the CAS and rotate it til the pointers cut across the corners of the black reluctors.
And or read this thread if needed: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=CAS+TOP+COVER
Remove the flat black cover on top of the CAS held with two screws.
Look at the rotor of the CAS and how it has two *pointers* on its top area.
Then look at my attached jpg. The pointers should be cutting across the corners of the square looking, black, reluctors. IF so, then the CAS is installed right. IF not, then unlock the CAS and rotate it til the pointers cut across the corners of the black reluctors.
And or read this thread if needed: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=CAS+TOP+COVER
07-16-10, 10:04 AM
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hey are you useing the stock t2 pully to mark this or putting the na pully to mark it? i had a problem when i switched over to the cog setup and couldnt get my timing together. i picked a pully that was 13b na sitting around my shop and was having the same problem when i put a S4 13bt pully back on it lined rite up. mazda didnt make all the drill marks the same so the timing marks will be off.
08-07-10, 07:50 PM
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UPDATE : So reaching the point of complete frustration , i managed to get it running for about 20 mins and test drove it, ran fine untill 3k rpm the started to hesitate, so pulling back into the garage i hit a bump knocked my CAS out of the car, NOW i cant get ot back in time what so ever, i pulled the thermowax pellet out to see where the keyway fell in realtion to the timing marks, keyway at 9 and timing at 12 .... restabbed the CAS at least 75 times correctly , i have Spark air and fuel ... tried 3 known good cas .... i cannot figure this one out at all, any help is sooo much appreciated
08-08-10, 12:41 AM
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you pulled thermowax pellet. did you lock the clutch up when you did this. ?.
why wasnt the bolt locked down on the CAS?
should have never came out or mover or anything maby thats were your getting your timing problems..
when you did the swop did you change the pullies?
the timing marks differ from na to turbo and from s4 to s5 turbo.
what ecu are you running it off ?
what year is the motor used in this swop.. ?
were in pa are you located?
why wasnt the bolt locked down on the CAS?
should have never came out or mover or anything maby thats were your getting your timing problems..
when you did the swop did you change the pullies?
the timing marks differ from na to turbo and from s4 to s5 turbo.
what ecu are you running it off ?
what year is the motor used in this swop.. ?
were in pa are you located?
08-08-10, 01:29 AM
#15
MECP Certified Installer
I had my timing go super retarded last week because however at Rotary Performance timed the car didn't tighten the cas agjustment bolt. All of the sudden my car was weak and helpless, so I went to the cas and wammo, the ******* adjustment bolt was so loose, there was a few millimeters between it and the "skid" you do the adjustment with.
Not impressed. I know Chris knows his ****, but I wonder SERIOUSLY about the lacky ***** they employ to do the nitty gritty. Yes, I am wary. The engine is nice, and seems well built, which I know chris built....but the install was WAY less than satisfactory. As an automotive technician, I raise an eyebrow.
Not impressed. I know Chris knows his ****, but I wonder SERIOUSLY about the lacky ***** they employ to do the nitty gritty. Yes, I am wary. The engine is nice, and seems well built, which I know chris built....but the install was WAY less than satisfactory. As an automotive technician, I raise an eyebrow.
08-08-10, 08:48 AM
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you pulled thermowax pellet. did you lock the clutch up when you did this. ?.
no, but nothing moved on removal or installation, i pulled it peeked and put it back with and impact
why wasnt the bolt locked down on the CAS?
should have never came out or mover or anything maby thats were your getting your timing problems..
wasnt locked down because ive been spending countless hours screwing with the timing to try to get it to run
when you did the swop did you change the pullies?
the timing marks differ from na to turbo and from s4 to s5 turbo.
i have 3 pullies and not sure if any of them are turbo, but they all match
what ecu are you running it off ? n332 (till i can get haltech or equivalent)
what year is the motor used in this swop.. ? 88
were in pa are you located?
near philadelphia
no, but nothing moved on removal or installation, i pulled it peeked and put it back with and impact
why wasnt the bolt locked down on the CAS?
should have never came out or mover or anything maby thats were your getting your timing problems..
wasnt locked down because ive been spending countless hours screwing with the timing to try to get it to run
when you did the swop did you change the pullies?
the timing marks differ from na to turbo and from s4 to s5 turbo.
i have 3 pullies and not sure if any of them are turbo, but they all match
what ecu are you running it off ? n332 (till i can get haltech or equivalent)
what year is the motor used in this swop.. ? 88
were in pa are you located?
near philadelphia
08-11-10, 02:21 PM
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if you didnt lock the clutch in you threw off the spacer in the front cover when you pulled the thermowax pellet. it only has to move a mm for it to couse problems. it's up to you if you want to pull the front cover off and reset it but im pretty sure its going to be off center.
do you have the 88 hi or 88 low, n332 runs the 87- pre 88 low n333 runs the 88-91
im also near philly ill send you a text
do you have the 88 hi or 88 low, n332 runs the 87- pre 88 low n333 runs the 88-91
im also near philly ill send you a text
08-24-10, 09:35 PM
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so in light of all the issues im having im just going to go megasquirt, i got my pulley marked off for tdc for 2 rotor faces, so ill post my results as soon as i can
01-10-11, 09:18 PM
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1/10 UPDATE !
so started testing my sensors to make sure everything is good and BAM, tested the boost pressure sensor per FSM and , ign on terminal D with 3.9" vac - read 4.99v ... so my theory in this is...
when i offset my timing marks to be able to get it started its because with a bad pressure sensor the ECU is reading that im wayyyy overboosting thus retarding my timing even during cranking / starting .... so if im correct if i replace my sensor with a known good one, reset timing and restab CAS , with the correct readings coming from AFM, CTS , AIT, and BOOST SENSOR, that theoretically my car should start and idle..... here is to the hope i can drive my 7 soon ! ... updates to follow
so started testing my sensors to make sure everything is good and BAM, tested the boost pressure sensor per FSM and , ign on terminal D with 3.9" vac - read 4.99v ... so my theory in this is...
when i offset my timing marks to be able to get it started its because with a bad pressure sensor the ECU is reading that im wayyyy overboosting thus retarding my timing even during cranking / starting .... so if im correct if i replace my sensor with a known good one, reset timing and restab CAS , with the correct readings coming from AFM, CTS , AIT, and BOOST SENSOR, that theoretically my car should start and idle..... here is to the hope i can drive my 7 soon ! ... updates to follow
01-11-11, 05:06 PM
#21
Rotary Freak
The pin D should be a brown/red wire and the connector must be connected to the sensor when checking it out.
If I saw a figure that close to 5vdc when checking out the sensor, I'd say to myself (I'm reading the guts of the ECU and not the output of the sensor. EDIT: OR I'd say to myself, "I'm on the wrong wire in the plug. I'm on the brown/white when I should be on the brown/red wire".
A series four car should have four wires in that plug. One is brown/red and is the output. Then there is a Black/white that is batt pwr (12vdc approx).........a brown/white wire that is a input to the sensor from the ECU (approx 5vdc and no higher) and is just what they call reference power.......and a pure black wire that should be a ground.
A RX will start without a boost/pressure sensor connected to the harness and will idle but idle a bit crummy 'cause the ECU will default to a certain value that is not the value for idle.
If I saw a figure that close to 5vdc when checking out the sensor, I'd say to myself (I'm reading the guts of the ECU and not the output of the sensor. EDIT: OR I'd say to myself, "I'm on the wrong wire in the plug. I'm on the brown/white when I should be on the brown/red wire".
A series four car should have four wires in that plug. One is brown/red and is the output. Then there is a Black/white that is batt pwr (12vdc approx).........a brown/white wire that is a input to the sensor from the ECU (approx 5vdc and no higher) and is just what they call reference power.......and a pure black wire that should be a ground.
A RX will start without a boost/pressure sensor connected to the harness and will idle but idle a bit crummy 'cause the ECU will default to a certain value that is not the value for idle.
01-11-11, 05:34 PM
#23
if it won't start with your current ECU it surely won't start while trying to set up a megasquirt.. don't start throwing sledgehammers at the car. think about what others have said about the crank pulley being incorrect and think about where your crank pulley came from that is on your turbo motor.
01-11-11, 09:58 PM
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im passed the whole pulley, the pulley is from a 88 t2 , ive tried 4 different ones all mate to the same position, the cas issue is whatever the fact i had to set my timing marks around 40-90 degrees off to get the car to start , along with the bad boost sensor is leading me to believe that the ECU is seeing im at max/overboost even at crank and is retarding my timing (due to the fact that the voltage the ECU is seeing on return is almost reference ) , so that being said , no im not going to megasquirt till i have my issues hammered out... i was being a retard to even thing , how could trying to megasquirt a car that dosent even run going to help, so, my ecu is good , tested it on a stock 88 t2 , so im going to replace the boost sensor, put timing back at base set, and re-stab the CAS. and with a tested/good AFM, CTS, AIT, TPS (good , not adjusted) ... my car should hopefully start and idle
01-11-11, 10:05 PM
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The pin D should be a brown/red wire and the connector must be connected to the sensor when checking it out.
If I saw a figure that close to 5vdc when checking out the sensor, I'd say to myself (I'm reading the guts of the ECU and not the output of the sensor. EDIT: OR I'd say to myself, "I'm on the wrong wire in the plug. I'm on the brown/white when I should be on the brown/red wire".
A series four car should have four wires in that plug. One is brown/red and is the output. Then there is a Black/white that is batt pwr (12vdc approx).........a brown/white wire that is a input to the sensor from the ECU (approx 5vdc and no higher) and is just what they call reference power.......and a pure black wire that should be a ground.
A RX will start without a boost/pressure sensor connected to the harness and will idle but idle a bit crummy 'cause the ECU will default to a certain value that is not the value for idle.
If I saw a figure that close to 5vdc when checking out the sensor, I'd say to myself (I'm reading the guts of the ECU and not the output of the sensor. EDIT: OR I'd say to myself, "I'm on the wrong wire in the plug. I'm on the brown/white when I should be on the brown/red wire".
A series four car should have four wires in that plug. One is brown/red and is the output. Then there is a Black/white that is batt pwr (12vdc approx).........a brown/white wire that is a input to the sensor from the ECU (approx 5vdc and no higher) and is just what they call reference power.......and a pure black wire that should be a ground.
A RX will start without a boost/pressure sensor connected to the harness and will idle but idle a bit crummy 'cause the ECU will default to a certain value that is not the value for idle.