So what if the crank angle sensor was stabbed 180 degrees out when your engine was built, How would the engine run ? 87 S4 t2 . It one of the things I have not looked at in trying to dial in the new motor , since there was no nut on the distributor hold down ( e.g. crank angle sensor ) when the motor was delivered . Is this the problem I'm haveing with the annoying idle issue ? HELP !!!

 

Roll the engine over so that theFront Main Pulley will Line up it's marks on the front cover of the Engine.First set of marks going Counter close wise.
Now,,Unplug the CAS connector,Remove the 10mm bolt on the CAS,and Pull OUT The CAS>.yes Right OUT of the engine.!
With the CAS Top plate(circuar cover) off,(remove those 2 phillips screws,the cover will pop off),you can now see the Magnets,etc.You will know why I asked you to do this, in a minute.
..Look at the Bottom gear On the CAS..the gear that was IN the HOLE of the front cover.You will see that the gear is held on by a Compression PIN,..BUT you want the Little DIMPLE that is on the gear..Line it up with the MARK on the CAS's Botttom casing..you should see it plainly,on the shaft casing above the gear..
Now,the Tricky part..Hold the CAS's Innards and casing Firmly,so that the Insides do not Move and STAB the CAS into the Front Cover..make sure that the casing Sits on the Cover,and the CAS is Properly Sitting in its Spot.Put the 10 mm bolt back in.
The CAS may have a tendency to move,one way or another(advance or retarded) when you Stab it..But just TRY to get it as close as you can,as you can SET the timing Dead ON with a Timing gun.
You are Now pretty well good to go.

 

Thank you for the information, But my question is this . How would the car run if the timimg was off? Cause i think that that is the case with my car, the engine came fully assembled , and all I had to do is drop it in and set everything up. . But it wont idle, and seems to have a fuel/ignition problem.

 

180 degrees actually shouldn't matter, since the CAS wheels are symmetrical.

Just follow the instructions above to set the position of the CAS. It isn't hard and takes only minutes, and will then eliminate all guesswork.

 

So, in actual fact then, you can remove the gear from the bottom of the CAS, and not have to worry about reinstalling it the right way?

This is good news for me!

 

But my original question still stands, How will the car run if the timing is that far off, or will it run at all?

 

Your worrries/concerns are .........not worth talking about. It's as simple as fully heating the engine up and putting a timing light to it as shown in the FSM which is online and downloadable. Just stabbing the CAS and then never taking a timing light to the job ..........is half *** work.

Rpms at idle should be well below 1200 rpm and close to the 750-800 rpm when checking the timing with a timing light. A simple, cheap timing light from Harbour Freight will do fine.

 

No realy? wow who would have thunk that. Ive set the timing to specs called out by the FSM. But I cant got the car to idle smoothly at 750-800 rpm, so that theory goes out the window. The car is only running on one rotor the front, and I'm quite sure it's ignition. and I think the CAS is failing and causing ther problem, as I have been through everything else in the system. It will intermitently fire both rotors .

 

Both Lead plugs fire at the same moment. IF one rotor isn't firing the problem would be plug wires or a bum rotor/apex seal/compression/dead sparkplug (lead plug, not trail).

There is but one coil for the Lead coil assy and it fires both rotors at the same moment from the same signal from the ECU. It can't be the CAS.

************Urban Dictionary: realy Jul 17, 2009 ... realy - 2 definitions - How retards spell "really" *********************************

The CAS being installed with the CAS 180* out would not act any different than installed right.

 

But the compression number front and rear are exactly the same . So what would cause the rear rotor to lean al the way out acting like an ignition problem, It got injector signal, and no vacuum leak to that particular injector, or do I simply not have enough time/miles on this new motor to get full compression?

Oh yeah. the point is taken about my misspelling of the word Really. and thank you for the Retarded coment as I have a 9 year old autistic son

And yes I have found out that installing the CAS 180 out made no difference in the way that motor ran. So would the Trailing coil not firing make the car run Rough ? cause I know this problem is simple stupid I'm just not looking at it the rite way or from the rite angle . Plugs are new . all parts are new and this motor only has 48 miles on it. I have put new plugs it the car and it made no difference

S4 t2 street port Rotary Performance build, stock injectors, and all smog items, and stock air box with New turbo air duct tube. All new vacuum lines, plugs wires, Lead and trail plugs(7, 9) 3" down pipe to 2.5" exhaust.

 

Rotary Performance rebuild should mean it's a good engine........if it's Rotary Performance in Tx.

Go to the Lead coil and pull the two sparkplug wires out of their bores then put them back in the bores of the lead coil assy but have them just barely in the holes. Then idle the engine HOT. While idling and your body not touching any part of the car, slightly pull one wire out at a time and observe if you see spark b/t the bore and the sparkplug wire. Do both wires one at a time. IF you see solid spark b/t the bore and the sparkplug wire, then the coil is working right. If one wire is not sparking..........swap the two Lead sparkplug wires and see if the problem moves from one place to the other.

I've no idea what your kid has to do with this thread.

Since it's a 87 it's got a variable resistor. Turn the variable resistor to its full clockwise stop while the engine is running and see if the idle changes or not. Or turn it anti clockwise and see if the idle changes or not. RX in general idle better at a rich idle setting. A afr around 13-13.5 afr give or take is normal to me.

Trail coil not firing.........makes no difference to me. Trail wires on the wrong top sparkplugs would make it idle crummy.

That's low miles on the engine. IF run rough means running rough other than idle I'd be looking for vacuum lines crossed TID cracks and things like that. Also it could very well be a some what common problem with the fuel injector grommets. IF the lower grommets on the fuel injector are hard as a rock and not seating good, that results in a rough idle.

Having one of the four vacuum/air nipples on the back of the upper intake leaking cause bad idling. Been there done that. The air bleed nipple being fed vacuum instead of air causes bad idling. It should be connected to any of the upper three nipples on the back of the intake manifold and never the lowest nipple. The air bleed nipple is the one b/t the two oil injectors on the lower intake manifold .

 

Ok after riping off the upper intake manifold , i've found that Rotary Performance has some vacuum lines crossed, so I have to get a hold of a Factory vacuum line routing diagram. I need to know where several if the line under the Manifold go to , especialy the pressure regulator , and that cold start valve on the lower manifold go to. Any ideas ? do you happen to have that diagram handy, and I would like to Thank You for the information you have given me It was most helpful.