time for rebuild... some q's
#1
time for rebuild... some q's
Hi guys!
So, finally, its time für my first rebuild... its a 1987 TurboII S4 engine...
First i need a complete rebuild kit... so engine internals (apex seals, side seals, corner springs etc.) + gasket kit (Oil pan, Uper/Lower Manifold, ACV gasket, BAC etc. etc.)
what do you think about the atkinson rebuild kit?
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...cat=591&page=1
is there EVERYTHING included what i need to rebuild?
My goal on this engine is 300HP with a nice hybrid turbo...
so, is this the rebuild kit to go?
one question to my engine...
i know that it never was overheated or something like that...
i don't really want to do all the measurements... do i really have to do this? it's the only thing i'm a little afraid of the rebuild...
big thx 4 any input
So, finally, its time für my first rebuild... its a 1987 TurboII S4 engine...
First i need a complete rebuild kit... so engine internals (apex seals, side seals, corner springs etc.) + gasket kit (Oil pan, Uper/Lower Manifold, ACV gasket, BAC etc. etc.)
what do you think about the atkinson rebuild kit?
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...cat=591&page=1
is there EVERYTHING included what i need to rebuild?
My goal on this engine is 300HP with a nice hybrid turbo...
so, is this the rebuild kit to go?
one question to my engine...
i know that it never was overheated or something like that...
i don't really want to do all the measurements... do i really have to do this? it's the only thing i'm a little afraid of the rebuild...
big thx 4 any input
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
you MUST measure everything, even twice. I mean, c'mon, do you really want to do a half-*** job on something like your engine? It's not like you can just pop it open and fix it if something goes wrong.
Measuring could also save you money, you probably don't need new side and corner seals. Just springs. Do some research and good luck.
Measuring could also save you money, you probably don't need new side and corner seals. Just springs. Do some research and good luck.
#4
i don't mess up with used part's which cost a few dollars... side and corner seals definitly come new, also if the are in spec!
i mean meassuring like the E-shaft, side housings etc.
i think that's the hardest part for a DIY engine rebuild... so if there is no visual wear on, for example, the sidehousings i don't want to measure them... :/
but if its really needed, i will do the job... maybe more input on this?
@Jager
thank you, i will check this thread!
i mean meassuring like the E-shaft, side housings etc.
i think that's the hardest part for a DIY engine rebuild... so if there is no visual wear on, for example, the sidehousings i don't want to measure them... :/
but if its really needed, i will do the job... maybe more input on this?
@Jager
thank you, i will check this thread!
#5
Mac Attack
iTrader: (5)
Learn how to utilize precision measuring instruments such as micrometers and vernir calipers. These engines are made up of high precision parts and not having the right clearances could lessen your rebuild's life, and cause you problems down the road.
Refer to the manufacturer's specifications for measurements, clearances, and such.
Refer to the manufacturer's specifications for measurements, clearances, and such.
#6
Carter 2.0
I used the RotaryAviation Video and I was part of the Archived thread called 13b Rebuild kit. In it dDub had discovered the absolute cheapest way to get all the parts you need. You don't need to buy all "new" springs. Check the tolerances before you spend an additional $200-$300 on little springs that are so light you can't feel them in your hand.
Also have fun with this document. It will help you pull the motor out better than anybody else.
Also have fun with this document. It will help you pull the motor out better than anybody else.
#7
Carter 2.0
Lastly, everybody tells you when you are un-hooking your Wireing harness from the CPU that you need small hands to reach up for a certain connector. (you'll know what I am talking about when you get there) It si best to just remove the A/C-heater blower from under your dash. Once this is doen you'll see an orange connector and you can easily and carefully disconnect it.
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#8
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
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Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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If this is your first rebuild, don't replace the side seals. Clearancing them requires a bit of skill and the old ones are almost always still good.
As for the rest, check the archives. I have a step by step engine build thread, and there is another thread about rebuild kits.
The Rotary Aviation video is best in my opinion.
As for the rest, check the archives. I have a step by step engine build thread, and there is another thread about rebuild kits.
The Rotary Aviation video is best in my opinion.
#9
so much thx 4 your input guys...
i will check all documents + links the next hours and will post tommorow with more questions
---
it's hard to get parts here in Austria... so i wanna get all that stuff from the states...
just for example, you pay 5$ for a Spark Plug... i pay 21 Euro (!!!!) for one (!!!!) plug... (and by the way, that's a GOOD price over here)
also the prices at the mazda dealer are a PITA...
but before i buy too much, i will check the treads and also check how exact to clearance the side-seals... thx 4 the tip Aaron
i will check all documents + links the next hours and will post tommorow with more questions
---
it's hard to get parts here in Austria... so i wanna get all that stuff from the states...
just for example, you pay 5$ for a Spark Plug... i pay 21 Euro (!!!!) for one (!!!!) plug... (and by the way, that's a GOOD price over here)
also the prices at the mazda dealer are a PITA...
but before i buy too much, i will check the treads and also check how exact to clearance the side-seals... thx 4 the tip Aaron
#12
Good luck. It is a huge project. Be prepared to get pissed off alot. A few years ago I rebuilt my first rx-7. I swore i would never do it again, but here i am starting another one. You should be fine. Have fun!!
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