josh greene

I have 1180 miles on my rebuilt TII, a couple days ago the it started stalling if I had the A/C and head lights wont idle. Its been getting a lil worse ever since, now when I start the car I have to give it gas for a sec then it will idle but at 1200 rpms(idle was at 1400 for the breakin) If I turn on the A/C it dies right away, if I turn on the lights it drops slightly.
Here is what I know the alt. is good just had it checked out, Checked all the intercooler/turbo connectons, and I noticed that the sub-zero starting reservior vac line that goes connects under the UIM is not connected I tried putting a line on there and only got it on a little bit but it didnt change anything.

any ideas thanks

WAYNE88N/A

Check the operation of your air bypass system and BAC per your FSM...

josh greene

Ok I could only check the resistance on the bac for now cause in at work the manual says 10-12.3 ohms and mine is 13.2 ohms a little higher but does that mean its bad???
Thanks

WAYNE88N/A

Nope, that's good- the calibration of your meter's error range probably falls within 1 ohm...

When the BAC goes bad, the coil will probably open, which means infinity ohms (open lead).

You can track the ABPV and BAC operation from the ECU pins, if you are so inclined...

josh greene

that sounds compicated! lol so the Bac is good??? or should I still jump it to the batery.

josh greene

Ok I just drove my car home and I also noticed that the idle dropes when I break kinda hard as well, also seems to be running a little more rich. my thoughts could it be a vac leak, if so the only lines really are under the UIM. could it be that my rebuild needs to be adjusted, timing,tps,idle,rich/lean?? Maybe spark plugs am I supposed to change them after breakin??

josh greene

I jumped the BAC to the battery and it clicks on. I then check to see if the Volts droped on the bac plug when the A/C is turned on and they do from 4.20-4.18V when A/C is off to 4.10-4.08V when the A/C is turned on. when the car is not running and the key is turned on the BAC goes CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK.......the hole time the key is on. Hope this helps someone help me, all the VAC lines I can see are good and turbo/IC connections are good, tom Im gonna try spraying carb. cleaner around in the engine to see if I can find a vac leak.
Thanks

WAYNE88N/A

You guys and your digital meters, lol...

First off, as far as our cars are concerned, there is absolutely no difference between 4.2 and 4.18 volts...What 4v should be telling you is that the ECU is outputting an approx 65% duty cycle signal to the BAC. Or, simply, the ECU is energizing it to open...

Not sure, but I don't think the bAC should be "clicking" with just the key on and the engine not running...

The valve you should be checking with the AC on & off is the air bypass valve, not the BAC (although the BAC will "back up" the ABPV in this situation).

Does the idle surge at all, or is it just low?

josh greene

Its low, I start it in the morning and it goes through the warm up and idles a lil higher, I drive to work an hour later try and start it again and it wants to stall right away without the A/C on i give it some gas for a sec and its fine. if I drive hard for a lil bit it wants to stall every time I stop until the engine cools a little this is all with the A/C off. I just noticed this as well since I havnt really got on it much due to it only has 1200 miles on rebuild.

WAYNE88N/A

Man, check your mechanical idle adjustment first, with no loads on the engine. Use the FSM...

josh greene

I cant find the mechanical idle adjustment in the factory service manual is it called something else??? also the idel was set high due to rebuild.

WAYNE88N/A

You sure you didn't accidentally set it LOW?

It's in the fuel/ecu section of the FSM...about 3/4 of the way back, IIRC...

josh greene

no I know it wasnt set low I didnt rebuild it I had a shop do it and iot was idleing at about 1400 RPMS, all this started on like 4 days ago.

josh greene

Ok my idel problem is worse now, it kept getting a little worse by the day and now it just wont idle at all and has problems starting when its cold. I set the TPS and it helped a little, Iv tried setting the idel by the BAC I turn the screw all the way either way and see now change what so ever. I still dont know what the mechanical idle adjustment is. also it seems to be running really rich, I thought maybe it was running to rich at idel and just snuffing out the spark but it will start right back up after it stalls.

DocMazda

i think the mechanical idle adjustment screw that wayne is talking about is under the intercooler. you will have to take that off, and i think the throttle elbow (i think...). there should be this tiny little screw that stops your throttle cables just behind the throttle body cables. This sets your idle depending upon how loose or tight you have it set. i had to set mine a little higher because i need to get my rotors changed in my brakes. also, all these problems you have, (aside from it worsening, mine has just been the same), is the same with my car. My car wont idle when i have the a/c on. however, i have my rats nest removed, and failed to replace the a/c selenoid that tells the ecu, "bump up the idle, the a/c is on". so, did you have your rats nest and all those selenoids still on your engine, or are they removed?? i could be incorrect about the selenoid thing, wayne is probly a better person to ask about that. hes the electrical master; well, definitely one of them anyway. but, the mechanical adjustment screw is under the intercooler, and you will probably have to remove the elbow that connects to the throttle body on the left side of the intercooler (facing towards the back of the car). i believe its a flat-head screw...a really, really small flat-head screw.

Hope that helps,
Ryan Shannon.

WAYNE88N/A

Josh, check for vac leaks at this point. New rebuild, idle getting progressively worse, and you've already checked your idle adjustments, so go for the vac leak scenario.

Did you install any block-off plates?

josh greene

yeah I installed them just befor the rebuild when I was checking everthing befor I decided the engine was blown.

WAYNE88N/A

Hmm...Check 'em good for vac leaks, especially after she warms up...

Does she idle funky both cold and hot? Is there any difference?

josh greene

Its not ideling at all now it just dies if i try and let it idel. this morning it started then died right away I had to give it gas once it started and it doesnt do the warm up anymore, after I drive it for a couple mins it will idel at around 1800 RPMS while its warming up then dies a couple mins later. If its hot or cold it wont idel if i let it try it just stalls right away. Iv checked my IC and turbo connections and I dont think its leaking there, Ill check again but the only other Vac lines are pretty much under the UIM cause I have the rats nest removed.

josh greene

Ok I took my car to the guy who rebuilt it, I most the vac lines on the OMP poped off cause it was cheep vac lines so I fixed those got the car to idle but it still wont idle with the AC on and dies sometimes when I stop at a light. the guy said the my Lean Rich adjustment is not working also he was messing with the AFM like under the black cap he was adjusting things witch made me nervious. I was wondering what the affect the L-R adjustment being broken would have also is the and of the colored plugs from the vac rac that are supposed to stay connected???
Thanks