i own an 86 fc, i just swapped in a 88tii. i've got a tii ECU,boost sensor, MAF, fuel pump, i put an fmic and 2.5" piping, with an hks bov. i also have an Apex'i neo AFC, and a manual boost controller with a FCD.

heres the problem, with the tii maf( the second one i've use, rebuilt from napa) it'll crank over high idle for 2-5 sec at 3k or so....then die, everytime

BUT, with the ---->NA MAF<------ it'll run, kinda wont hold its on idle but if i keep my foot on the throttle it runs super clean, when i floor it it'll rev to 4-5k with 2-5psi of boost, all the while spitting and backfiring. the rpms bounce between the 4-5k

the Air/fuel ratio gauge shows at full throttle its leaning out, but as soon as i let off it goes to stoich, then to lean

WHY WOULD IT WANT TO RUN WITH THE N/A MAF VS. THE TURBO ONE

 

Did you have the injectors/fuel rail checked out and cleaned first?

 

no i didnt, would that make the diffrence

 

Are u freakin serious 28 ppl have looked at this at not a clue huh

what happened to fc enthusiasts, kinda slightly sad....

 

it could be cuz the n/a maf runs it a bit leaner......put some new sparkplugs in it and check your ignition system over
could just be shitty sparkplugs and weak ignition

 

sounds like a bad MAF. i know you said you had a rebuilt one. but see if you cant get another TII maf to double check before you buy a new one.

 

i did swap out the plugs like a week ago. the motor was pretty flooded so i ripped out the trailings and took out the two(DEFLOOD)fuses and cranked it and it spit out quite a big of fuel... put some new ones in and fired right off


o ya the trick with the two lights for the ECU codes, they're not puttin any codes out now, was before with a tps code, swaped it

 

i did this is the 2nd one from napa/ they hooked me up cause i used to work there, but i don't think they're gonna want to pay the shipping charges from VA again lol, i'll see if one of my friends has one i can use for a min just to test...

 

what 2 deflood fuses are you talkin about?>

 

the main fuses under the hood, the two closet to the motor, pull then Crank for ten sec or so, pop em back in crank and run

 

Not the TWO, the ONE.... the EGI inj. fuse

 

TRY AGAIN

Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen - Phase2:



There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:

1) remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2) remove plugwires and lower plugs
3) crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4) Obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1/2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5) Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or replace them if you feel they're heavily fouled, or if this procedure doesnt work the first time.
6) Replace plugs and wires.
7) Replace fuses.
8) Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke. Hold the rpm's up a bit for the first minute or so until it smooths out and runs more normally.


This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method.



VIA-http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_fuel_cutoff_switch_unflooding.html

 

Really im not lookin for corretions on trivail BS, that doesnt pretain to my issues

just help for whats going on now....