TII peeps look here please....

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Dec 12, 2003 | 11:34 PM

#26

1987RX7guy

Thread Starter

Eat Rice Don't Drive it.

iTrader: (3)

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 12,752

Likes: 1

From: Laredo, Tx

Quote:

Originally posted by Snrub
I know the search feature often isn't as helpfull as everyone makes to when you're looking for something. It's a myth perpetuated by many veteren members and I refuse to post "search". However, if we check the archives intended for those with LESS than 6000 posts we find this article. Checking the archives we find the same thing:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=112251

What do you expect to accomplish through removing all the extra stuff? The 'extra' stuff doesn't require you to do anything to it if you leave it there. Removing it will consume time and possibly bugger things up.

Thanks bud but I had seen that already and wanted to see if I could extract any MORE info out of the members here as it has been a while since anyone posted in that thread and other things may have been discovered and what not.

Quote:

. The archives also has **** to offer except one thread that I have already gone through.

^^ quote from myself stating I knew about that thread already.

And will anyone atleast speak about the MOP issue? I really don't like the MOP system already and with this S5 I can't get rid of it without a stand alone and that won't be here for atleast 6 months.

Dec 12, 2003 | 11:59 PM

#27

TPDNRX7

Full Member

Joined: Feb 2001

Posts: 152

Likes: 0

From: Central New York

Quote:

If you want to keep the charcoal cannister, you need to keep the purge valve too and all its lines. Otherwise lose it and disconnect the vent line at the check-and-cut valve by the fuel tank.

Wouldn't this cause excess pressure in the fuel tank? A vented gas cap would solve the problem. But is there another way to route the line from the charcoal canister to avoid having to use a vented cap? Could a vac source be hooked up to the Charcoal canister? Or is the Check valve really that important? Please explain the function of this..

Quote:

If you decied to run a catch can, it's inlet(s) should be connected to the two nipples on and below the oil filler pipe and its outlet connected to the hard line that goes to the check valve in the TID.

Suppose you're running an open vent catch can (ie. one with a breather filter on it.) Vac leak? Should the breather opening be capped? Would like to avoid this if possible.

RE: Fuel lines

With this mod I am not thrilled about setting rubber fuel lines on the top of the block. Will heat from the block affect them? Or should I just wrap them in header wrap or high temp tape?

Last edited by TPDNRX7; Dec 13, 2003 at 12:14 AM.

Dec 13, 2003 | 05:31 AM

#28

NZConvertible

I'm a boost creep...

Joined: Jan 2002

Posts: 15,608

Likes: 8

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally posted by TPDNRX7
Wouldn't this cause excess pressure in the fuel tank?

No. You leave the vent line open at the tank. That way there are no smelly vapours in the engine bay.

Quote:

Suppose you're running an open vent catch can (ie. one with a breather filter on it.) Vac leak? Should the breather opening be capped?

This has nothing to do with the induction system, so no vac leak. The idea is to ventilate the sump to avoid sludge build-up. If you're not going to suck air from the sump by connecting it to the TID, the catch can is redundant. Just run two lines from those nipples to underneath the car and leave them open-vented.

Quote:

With this mod I am not thrilled about setting rubber fuel lines on the top of the block. Will heat from the block affect them?

This is no different to the stock rubber fuel lines. They'll be fine.