2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

TII mods?

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Old Mar 24, 2002 | 11:10 PM
  #26  
PraxRX7's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Re: Re: Using an aftermarket BOV to controll boost.

Originally posted by jspecracer7


Was your boost gauge Y connected to your BOV?
It is connected to the same Y as my boost sensor.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 01:56 AM
  #27  
Evil Aviator's Avatar
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From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Originally posted by VetteKiller

-Ported wastegate
-720cc Secondaries
-S-AFC
-FCD
-Walbro 255lph
-Boost Gauge
-AF Gauge
-EGT gauge
-Manual Boost controller
I really don't see how you guys get the engine running properly at high rpm's with the FCD and S-AFC. I guess that's just one of those things that requires the mechanical skills which I obviously lack.

If you install a good aftermarket EMS, you not only get to trash your horsepower-robbing AFM, but you also get the benefit of the S-AFC, FCD, AF Gauge, and Manual Boost Controller all in one package, not to mention other benefits like rev limiter, turbo timer, O2 data logging, ignition timing, etc.

Originally posted by RETed

It's possible to throw enough fuel in there to cause burning in the exhaust system that will still cause the EGT to skyrocket - it looks almost exactly identical to a lean condition.
This will also cause an error in O2 readings. What you are looking for is an EGT reading for best power, and then tune to this reading. A lean burn isn't going to give you best power, so I don't see a problem here. Besides, turbine engines have external combustion as a standard condition, but we still tune them with the EGT gauge just fine.

Originally posted by RETed

Actually, the biggest problem I see with the 1989-1991 Kouki stock turbo exhaust manifold is the double passages - you can only keep track one ONCE side of the motor, short of buying TWO EGT gauges and probes for both front and rear rotors.&nbsp BIG BUCKS!&nbsp It's recommended to stuff the EGT probe in the downpipe for these set-ups to be able to monitor both rotors, although you get even more lag from the probe being that far away from the exhaust ports...
You can just stick the thermocouple in the runner of the rear rotor, which is the critical rotor.

Last edited by Evil Aviator; Mar 25, 2002 at 01:58 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 02:49 AM
  #28  
madaz07's Avatar
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From: sunshine coast Australia
im looking at buying a 89-91 t2 what mods would you have to do to get it doing high 13s to flat 14s down the 1/4 mile?
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 03:42 AM
  #29  
NZConvertible's Avatar
I'm a boost creep...
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally posted by jspecracer7
To find out if you're tuning's right on, you tune your fuel map rich. Then do a run or two to see where the exhaust temp is at. Then start backing off the fuel until the egt levels out and starts going up. This means that you've hit stochiometry and have gone into the lean area. Then bring the fuel back up by a hair so that you're in the rich side, but not by much
Man that's dodgy. There's no way an EGT is accurate enough for precise tuning. The only place to properly tune a car is on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor. After spending thousands modifying your car, why wouldn't you spend a few hundred bucks having it dyno tuned?
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 09:18 AM
  #30  
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From: Atlantic Beach Florida
there is like no place to dyno my car around here that I know of is there a place on the net you can locate one by your place?
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 09:33 AM
  #31  
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From: Richmond, VA
Originally posted by turbotwista
there is like no place to dyno my car around here that I know of is there a place on the net you can locate one by your place?
Richmond, VA - Rosen Autosports

They have a dyno. Stop by when your around Norfolk, it's right off of 64.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 09:44 AM
  #32  
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From: Atlantic Beach Florida
Any in chambersburg area and how much do they charge in Richmond?
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