Terrh

iTrader: (7)

What did you guys do for an intake?
Did you make a cold air box?
How level does the AFM have to be (on an S4)?

How are you getting air TO the cold air box?

I've seen alot of intakes and the cold air box looks nearly sealed, how the hell do you get the air in there? Did you just use a universal cone filter and then make a pipe from the AFM to the turbo? I assume that the pipe from the AFM to the turbo (the stock one) needs to be changed, it looks pretty restrictive with all of those bends and things. What did you use to go from the 3" (or whatever AFM outlet to the 2" (or whatever) turbo inlet?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

bump

tancred

Cold Air Boxes I BELIEVE you cut the wheel well fender panel I THINK and try to get your car to bring air up from it? I saw it done to another turbo 2 and they cut the fender wall I think to get some flow...

Kanaida

cut fender wall? Ouch... Well first off, the cone filter and straight pipe to the turbo inlet duct is called the "TID mod". Most people do it with some pvc pipe and some cuplinks to make an almost direct shot to the turbo. mine has only a 45 degree bend in it from cone filter to compressor.

As for the air box, I'm not sure yet. I'm still trying to devise my own. Obviously there has got to be some sort of ram air going on somewhere or there would be no need for the box. I've thought about trying to redirect the rams from the front fascia that direct air to the brakes, and reroute that up to the intake, but I'm skeptical. Need that air going to the brakes. I'd be interested in everyone throwing their air boxes up here and see what's going on.

-Kanaida

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

this is what i have got on my S5 and it works with an S4 adn it is smog legal

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

Sorry forgot the link....


http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/eng...iah_airbox.htm

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

yes, I'm planning on making something like that.. for $381 I'm sure that money can be saved here ... $381 for a ******* intake is insane
that's almost $600 CDN.. WOW thats expensive...

Anyways, my questions are now the following...


Is the stock airbox really that restrictive? it doesn't look too bad, but without a flow bench is kinda hard to tell.

What about the piping from the airbox to the turbo?

and most importantly, how are you getting air INTO the airbox... From those pics there it it looks almost airtight when the hood is closed, are there some giant gaping holes somewhere to let air get in or what? I think that might be a huge restriction to your intake..

Jaared

I have been thinking long and hard about the cold air box thing... (I get bored at work)

Ok i guess i should photo shop it... explainin it would be kinda dumb...

check back in 15 min or so for my idea lol... im sure its been done but I will never refuze to believe it is my invention... muwahhaah

jaared

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

My setup is for an N/A, but I'm sure you can do it for a TII.

Yes, I cut a hole in the car. It was really no big deal. I'm ducting cold air up from beside the brake duct:


That air goes directly into an aluminum box with the cone inside it. In this pic you can see where the air comes in, and gets to the filter:


That's how I did it. Here's the whole thread with the write up and pics:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=181680

Ive seen people put the filter infront of the rad too, but that requires either some cutting or some fabricting of different Rad mounts.

Jaared

thread with a very nice airbox!


Mine is gonna look almost the same... im gonna attempt to use lexan... not for any reason other than I have loads of it...

It dosent get any better than free!

My goal it to have a faster car than all my friends and pay as little as possible, i got the car for $700. So when we race and i win im gonna rub it in all over the place...


but yea check his airbox... i dont think it gets anybetter...

uses stock air scoop thing and the front is open so you catch a ram air kinda effect too... ditch your FTP lenses and id guess you would catch hella cold air!

jaared

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

Here's what Scott did:




And here's how he did it:

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/front.htm

NZConvertible

A lot of people just throw a cone filter on but that means you're sucking hot (sometimes very hot) underbonnet air, which reduces power and increases the chance of detonation. You don't need to make a box as such, just a heat shield that totally seperates the filter from the rest of the engine bay, and then duct outside air to it. A sealed box is best, but more work. As level as possible. Either the ribbed side or the side with th plastic panel can be on top, but it should be level to stop gravity affecting the flap. There a few ways of doing this, and it depends on how muck work you want to do. First off the stock airbox snorkel is useless unless it's attached to a sealed airbox, so don't bother leaving it there. From a pure performance point of view, probably the best way to duct air to the filter is to cut a hole under the filter like the one in the picture above. The only downside to this method is you need to relocate the washer bottle, which normally sits right where that duct is. This is a major pain, but worth ir. Another option is to relocate the fuel pump resistor/relay and cut a hole in the front bulkhead. You need to use flexible ducting to clear the headlight. If you've removed your A/C you have another option, the panel next to the radiator where the refrigerant line ran through. You can cut a hole there. Unfortunately whatever you do you'll probably be cutting steel if you want to run an adequately sized duct. Anything less than 3" is no good. Yes it's very restrictive and replacing it will give a very noticable improvement in performance. The AFM outlet is 3" and the turbo inlet is just under 2.5" (60mm actually). You can use a piece of 3" mandrel bent pipe with a rubber or silicone reducer to attach to the turbo, or what I did on my 12AT was use 2.5" pipe and have an exhaust shop expand one end to 3" to match the AFM. Worked very well. Yes it is. There are some quite good airboxes out there that are worth keeping and modifying, but unfortunately ours isn't one of then. The inlet is too small and because it's on the top half of the box it would be really difficult to make it bigger and better. The outlet to the AFM is even worse.

One important point is that if you've already replaced the exhaust then a new intake (particularly the TID) is quite likely to cause boost creep problems. A ported wastegate is recommended before to replace the TID. If you're already having boost crep problems, leave the intake alone until you sort it out.

Hope all that helps.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

thanks!

all of that DID help

I've allready got my wastegate ported, and right now I'm still running stock exhaust. No creep here.

as far as getting air into the airbox, that's what I was afraid of. I think I'm going to cut my hood and put a scoop there, I really don't want to cut my car unless 100% necessary ...

rx7freddie

Scott is the man hes site will help out anyone wit a turbo 2 . i wish i had friends like that haha .

NZConvertible

I think I'd rather be cutting steel under the hood...

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

I went to home depot and bought some fiberglass resin and sheets and made my own box, then got on it with some black primer and it works just dandy.

Seriously, fiberglass is a LOT easier to work with than it would seem. Make a pattern out of some thick cardboard, and start laying the glass, then cut it with a dremel, sand it, and paint it.



- Ryan