TII info wanted Boost Q's
#1
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TII info wanted Boost Q's
Hello,
I drive an 88 turbo with the full racing beat exhaust with rb fuel cut defencer, also am running the stock air box with k&n filter.
I want to get an aluminum TID like I've seen on the parts trader but I am in need of an aftermarket boost and air fuel gauge. I bet the boost is to high right now.
The APEXI elec gauges are nice. I wish to remove the airpump and any thing else I don't need for emmissions.
I also seen the apex'i turbo timer that is also an air/fuel monitor, Is that better than a another type of gauge. I would appreciate any wisdom of how I should keep thngs under control. I can't wait to rebuild with something sick....
Thanks,
Benny
I drive an 88 turbo with the full racing beat exhaust with rb fuel cut defencer, also am running the stock air box with k&n filter.
I want to get an aluminum TID like I've seen on the parts trader but I am in need of an aftermarket boost and air fuel gauge. I bet the boost is to high right now.
The APEXI elec gauges are nice. I wish to remove the airpump and any thing else I don't need for emmissions.
I also seen the apex'i turbo timer that is also an air/fuel monitor, Is that better than a another type of gauge. I would appreciate any wisdom of how I should keep thngs under control. I can't wait to rebuild with something sick....
Thanks,
Benny
Last edited by benny_rx_blanco; 08-12-02 at 08:23 PM.
#2
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Why not just purchase a standalone EMS? This will allow you to add a simple pipe and K&N cone filter in place of the hp-robbing AFM, you can sell the FCD crutch because it will no longer be needed, you will also get the fuel/additional injector control and timing control as well as (depending on the brand/model of EMS) a turbo timer, rev limiter, air/fuel ratio readout, boost/nitrous control, and MAP (boost) readout, and other preset and user-defined controls. You are going to need a standalone EMS once you rebuild with something "sick", anyway, so you may as well get it now.
#3
Without a doubt standalone is the way to go if you have the cash and the desire to go all out.
A stand alone unit can have hidden costs, installation, custom fabrication etc. Weigh all your options. Do you want to do right the first time around? do you have the cash on hand to purchase a stand alone and get it in the car and running? If yes then by all means go for it. If not then there are other options out there that will hold you over till such time as a stand alone is feasable.
A stand alone unit can have hidden costs, installation, custom fabrication etc. Weigh all your options. Do you want to do right the first time around? do you have the cash on hand to purchase a stand alone and get it in the car and running? If yes then by all means go for it. If not then there are other options out there that will hold you over till such time as a stand alone is feasable.
#5
Dont know about the FC, but I have "helped" installing a E6K in a FD, and it was a bit difficult, because a) the E6K manual is wrong in various spots !!, b) you dont always get color-for-color in the wiring diagrams, c) the corresponding wires may not be where you expect them to be.
However nice a standalone is, it is also very expensive. If you got the cash and the desire, then go for it. Otherwise, stick with the basic mods to the stock ECU and AFM/intake.
However nice a standalone is, it is also very expensive. If you got the cash and the desire, then go for it. Otherwise, stick with the basic mods to the stock ECU and AFM/intake.
#6
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i hope you have some fuel mods. with a full turbo back you need at the very least a fuel pump. 680 or 720 injectors would be helpful as well. yes the apex gauges are very nice, ive always been fond of greddy myself, but good ol' cheap autometers will do. as far as removing emisions, just about everything can go. personaly ive removed airpump, EGR, and ACV. about the apex turbotimer that is also an air/fuel monitor. just a thought but id stay with an actual dedicated gauge when it comes to fuel on a T2. best thing as far as i know is an EGT gauge. i dont really trust the air/fuel gauge from autometer everyone uses. somthing sick would be a stand-alone such as the Haltech and a big turbo such as a T04 60-1. a friend of mine had that setup on his T2 and it was nice. oh and cant forget a big front mount intercooler.
#7
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Originally posted by rx7_turbo2
A stand alone unit can have hidden costs, installation, custom fabrication etc. Weigh all your options. Do you want to do right the first time around? do you have the cash on hand to purchase a stand alone and get it in the car and running? If yes then by all means go for it. If not then there are other options out there that will hold you over till such time as a stand alone is feasable.
A stand alone unit can have hidden costs, installation, custom fabrication etc. Weigh all your options. Do you want to do right the first time around? do you have the cash on hand to purchase a stand alone and get it in the car and running? If yes then by all means go for it. If not then there are other options out there that will hold you over till such time as a stand alone is feasable.
Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die
Hey evil whats the price on having a haltech installed or can it be done with good instructions?
Hey evil whats the price on having a haltech installed or can it be done with good instructions?
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
Installation & tuning runs between $500 for street/O2/EGT tuning up to $3,000 for dyno/track tuning. If you have any doubts about being to set up the EMS properly, then this money is well-spent on a professional, especially one with insurance, hehehe.
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#9
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
I don't have any experience with a Haltech, but it looks pretty much the same thing as a Wolf. Installing an EMS requires basically the same skills as installing a stereo system, so if you are good at that, then the EMS shouldn't be much of a problem. Tuning is more difficult, especially if you don't have a very good understanding of engines and/or the various functions of the EMS. People who know what they are doing can get a Haltech E6K installed and basically tuned in one day. Here is a link for installing a Haltech in an FC:
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
Installation & tuning runs between $500 for street/O2/EGT tuning up to $3,000 for dyno/track tuning. If you have any doubts about being to set up the EMS properly, then this money is well-spent on a professional, especially one with insurance, hehehe.
I don't have any experience with a Haltech, but it looks pretty much the same thing as a Wolf. Installing an EMS requires basically the same skills as installing a stereo system, so if you are good at that, then the EMS shouldn't be much of a problem. Tuning is more difficult, especially if you don't have a very good understanding of engines and/or the various functions of the EMS. People who know what they are doing can get a Haltech E6K installed and basically tuned in one day. Here is a link for installing a Haltech in an FC:
http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
Installation & tuning runs between $500 for street/O2/EGT tuning up to $3,000 for dyno/track tuning. If you have any doubts about being to set up the EMS properly, then this money is well-spent on a professional, especially one with insurance, hehehe.
#10
I don't believe the standard Haltech package comes with boost contol. It may have the ability to control it but the selenoid and all the rest is extra$$$ Correct me if I'm wrong. Most of the hidden cost's in standalone management come in installation. If your doing it yourself certain problems may arise around basic vehicle function.
If you decide to go with some piggy back units, you can always sell them down the line when your ready and have the cash for a full standalone and recoup most of your money.
In the end the "right" way to go is a system like Haltech or Wolf etc, but in the mean time a pretty decend 2nd gen can be built on a hybrid turbo and some basic piggy back components.
If you decide to go with some piggy back units, you can always sell them down the line when your ready and have the cash for a full standalone and recoup most of your money.
In the end the "right" way to go is a system like Haltech or Wolf etc, but in the mean time a pretty decend 2nd gen can be built on a hybrid turbo and some basic piggy back components.
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