Peyman

iTrader: (2)

'Teh' car is a 1988 vert with a TII engine, but a n/a tranny.

I bought the car like this, so please don't flame.
I dont have the money for a tii tranny, so this is what i'm going to have to stick with until the tranny goes out on me.....

I had to put a new clutch on the car when i first got it because it was slipping but I got the stock n/a clutch (with a lifetime replacement)

A month later/1K miles later, my clutch is already slipping like a ****.

SO, i was wondering what brand clutch would you put on it, and what stage?
Would a stage 3 be overkill? Looking to spend in the $300's or less.

Mods: Cat back dual exhaust, cone air filter, boost controller.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

read someone had the set up with an act stage three and said it worked ok..just don't go nuts with it and you should be fine..just the messenger (read it previous threads )

MARTIN

just put an act or exedy street strip... I was running a bronze clutch with the stock pressure plate and never had any slippage, well I had tire slippage but atleast the clutch held fine... Till it disentegrated on the way home on night...

Sorry, I did have an act PP on there.

spot_skater

I think Martin was also running a race puck type clutch in his car. Weren't you?
Those types of clutches are basically meant to be dumped, not slipped, like normal street driving would need.

Not that you can't drive Martin, definitely not trying to get into anything there. But I don't think you were driving the way the clutch was meant to be used.

To the original poster, stick with a street/strip or a 6 puck sprung clutch. ACT makes good parts.

James

Peyman

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info,
spot skater- So if i get a performance clutch, its not good for it if i drive normal? Its better to dump the clutch then let go of it slowly like in normal driving? Thats the only thing that got me wondering right now.....

rotary downshift

yes /... race clutches are meant to be raced and beaten onif u baby them and allow them to slip they wear out a million times faster ...
happind to a friend of mine in a j body .... toasted his full race set up in under 10k km

MARTIN

Well, I definately didnt beat it. ITs a bronze clutch, I shoulda driven it hard as ***. But I found it cheaper to replace a clutch, than an entire drivetrain. Btw, if you get a bronze puck clutch, dont slip it off the line much. IF you do, youll end up replacing your flywheel quicker than you think. Bronze puck clutches never loose their grip till the end. So if you feel it slipping, then you gotta get yourself another flywheel, cus its definately not resourfaceable.

Bukwild

you might want to start thinking along the lines of pay a little now or alot later. I suggest you get the correct t2 tranny and the t2 street strip cluch from ACT and resurface the flywheel. This way you spend a few more dollars and are done with it. Why have a car that makes you baby it because of clutch worry problems.

MARTIN

cus he said he doesnt have money. And besides, with a street/strip clutch itll be fine. Its basically a stock TII. Everything will hold just fine. The tranny and everything has held up fine and im pushing past 450... But then again, I dont launch, and I revmatch with no clutch as much as possible. I dont condone of the line racing with an n/a tranny. Those than rears a weak as ***.

Peyman

iTrader: (2)

the car is weird, today the clutch hasn't slipped at all with me flooring it a few times, but when my older brother drives the car (speed freak) and i drive it after him, it slips.

Could it be because he drive it so hard the clutch 'overheats', causing it to slip?

I will further investigate the problem, but i have to go to work now.

MARTIN

Yea, think of it as a brake.. If you use it to much or too hard, you experience brake fade. Same principle.

Peyman

iTrader: (2)

ok so i have been flooring it around, redlining etc a few times and the clutch defenately slips. After you let go of it you can smell the burned clutch smell, so it looks like it will have to be a new clutch.

I went to autozone where i had got this clutch from and they said they would give me one just like it, or put another $150 for their performance organic clutch kit. If i decide to get their performance clutch kit, it will have come up to $290 for the clutch, minus the labor cost i paid.

So the question is, should the mechanic put the 2nd clutch in for free, hence the clutch being defective, or should autozone refund me for labor cost?

driftfc87

iTrader: (6)

most mechanics if you dont buy there clutch kit they sell and you bring in a clutch and the clutch burns up they wont replace it for free cause it was not there product so they wont stand behind it but if it burnt up cause they didnt install it right then they should have to fix it because they fucked up

Peyman

iTrader: (2)

yeah thats what I was thinking too but the thing is that this specific local mechanic i went to is the type where you have to bring your own parts to him. He doesnt order stuff for you, so thats why its so complicated. I mean a month for a brand spanking new clutch is just pityful, so i'm thinking either the clutch was defective to begin with or he installed it like a dork.

I know how to drive a manual so that out of the question......