TII engine, n/a tranny: What clutch?
'Teh' car is a 1988 vert with a TII engine, but a n/a tranny.
I bought the car like this, so please don't flame. I dont have the money for a tii tranny, so this is what i'm going to have to stick with until the tranny goes out on me..... I had to put a new clutch on the car when i first got it because it was slipping but I got the stock n/a clutch (with a lifetime replacement) A month later/1K miles later, my clutch is already slipping like a mofo. SO, i was wondering what brand clutch would you put on it, and what stage? Would a stage 3 be overkill? Looking to spend in the $300's or less. Mods: Cat back dual exhaust, cone air filter, boost controller. |
read someone had the set up with an act stage three and said it worked ok..just don't go nuts with it and you should be fine..just the messenger (read it previous threads )
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just put an act or exedy street strip... I was running a bronze clutch with the stock pressure plate and never had any slippage, well I had tire slippage but atleast the clutch held fine... Till it disentegrated on the way home on night...
Sorry, I did have an act PP on there. |
I think Martin was also running a race puck type clutch in his car. Weren't you?
Those types of clutches are basically meant to be dumped, not slipped, like normal street driving would need. Not that you can't drive Martin, definitely not trying to get into anything there. But I don't think you were driving the way the clutch was meant to be used. To the original poster, stick with a street/strip or a 6 puck sprung clutch. ACT makes good parts. James |
thanks for the info,
spot skater- So if i get a performance clutch, its not good for it if i drive normal? Its better to dump the clutch then let go of it slowly like in normal driving? Thats the only thing that got me wondering right now..... |
yes /... race clutches are meant to be raced and beaten onif u baby them and allow them to slip they wear out a million times faster ...
happind to a friend of mine in a j body .... toasted his full race set up in under 10k km |
Originally Posted by spot_skater
I think Martin was also running a race puck type clutch in his car. Weren't you?
Those types of clutches are basically meant to be dumped, not slipped, like normal street driving would need. Not that you can't drive Martin, definitely not trying to get into anything there. But I don't think you were driving the way the clutch was meant to be used. To the original poster, stick with a street/strip or a 6 puck sprung clutch. ACT makes good parts. James |
you might want to start thinking along the lines of pay a little now or alot later. I suggest you get the correct t2 tranny and the t2 street strip cluch from ACT and resurface the flywheel. This way you spend a few more dollars and are done with it. Why have a car that makes you baby it because of clutch worry problems.
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
you might want to start thinking along the lines of pay a little now or alot later. I suggest you get the correct t2 tranny and the t2 street strip cluch from ACT and resurface the flywheel. This way you spend a few more dollars and are done with it. Why have a car that makes you baby it because of clutch worry problems.
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the car is weird, today the clutch hasn't slipped at all with me flooring it a few times, but when my older brother drives the car (speed freak) and i drive it after him, it slips.
Could it be because he drive it so hard the clutch 'overheats', causing it to slip? I will further investigate the problem, but i have to go to work now. |
Originally Posted by Peyman
the car is weird, today the clutch hasn't slipped at all with me flooring it a few times, but when my older brother drives the car (speed freak) and i drive it after him, it slips.
Could it be because he drive it so hard the clutch 'overheats', causing it to slip? I will further investigate the problem, but i have to go to work now. |
ok so i have been flooring it around, redlining etc a few times and the clutch defenately slips. After you let go of it you can smell the burned clutch smell, so it looks like it will have to be a new clutch.
I went to autozone where i had got this clutch from and they said they would give me one just like it, or put another $150 for their performance organic clutch kit. If i decide to get their performance clutch kit, it will have come up to $290 for the clutch, minus the labor cost i paid. So the question is, should the mechanic put the 2nd clutch in for free, hence the clutch being defective, or should autozone refund me for labor cost? |
most mechanics if you dont buy there clutch kit they sell and you bring in a clutch and the clutch burns up they wont replace it for free cause it was not there product so they wont stand behind it but if it burnt up cause they didnt install it right then they should have to fix it because they fucked up
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Originally Posted by driftfc87
most mechanics if you dont buy there clutch kit they sell and you bring in a clutch and the clutch burns up they wont replace it for free cause it was not there product so they wont stand behind it but if it burnt up cause they didnt install it right then they should have to fix it because they fucked up
yeah thats what I was thinking too but the thing is that this specific local mechanic i went to is the type where you have to bring your own parts to him. He doesnt order stuff for you, so thats why its so complicated. I mean a month for a brand spanking new clutch is just pityful, so i'm thinking either the clutch was defective to begin with or he installed it like a dork. I know how to drive a manual so that out of the question...... |
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