TII Clutch issues? car wont go into gear
#1
TII Clutch issues? car wont go into gear
I have a TII I've been working on to fix up.
Changed the clutch in it, and now the car won't go into gear.
it SEEMS to be disengaging fully, even MORE than fully. I adjusted the rod so that the friction point is almost at the very top of the pedal travel and even then it is VERY difficult to get the car into gear. requires a LOT of force. Same with shifting - you have to wait till the revs match before it'll slide into gear with the clutch pressed.
I looked under the car through the inspection plate to see if it was actually disengaging and it seems like with the pedal pressed there's at least 1/8" between the disc and the flywheel.
I thought maybe it could be a pilot bearing issue so I dropped the trans and had a look at it - it works fine and looks fine. I greased it a little, inspected the flywheel/clutch (just had the flywheel machined, pressure plate and disc look fine and don't seem to be warped).
I put a shim behind the clutch pivot ball just to help things out and be sure that things are disengaging but I just don't think that it is the issue.
Also, I also replaced the slave cyl even though it seemed to work fine because there was some rust in the bore. I bled it properly and it seems to have a lot of travel.
What could be wrong here? I don't want to take it apart again because I doubt I'll find anything wrong. I must be missing something important.
Changed the clutch in it, and now the car won't go into gear.
it SEEMS to be disengaging fully, even MORE than fully. I adjusted the rod so that the friction point is almost at the very top of the pedal travel and even then it is VERY difficult to get the car into gear. requires a LOT of force. Same with shifting - you have to wait till the revs match before it'll slide into gear with the clutch pressed.
I looked under the car through the inspection plate to see if it was actually disengaging and it seems like with the pedal pressed there's at least 1/8" between the disc and the flywheel.
I thought maybe it could be a pilot bearing issue so I dropped the trans and had a look at it - it works fine and looks fine. I greased it a little, inspected the flywheel/clutch (just had the flywheel machined, pressure plate and disc look fine and don't seem to be warped).
I put a shim behind the clutch pivot ball just to help things out and be sure that things are disengaging but I just don't think that it is the issue.
Also, I also replaced the slave cyl even though it seemed to work fine because there was some rust in the bore. I bled it properly and it seems to have a lot of travel.
What could be wrong here? I don't want to take it apart again because I doubt I'll find anything wrong. I must be missing something important.
#4
NASA-MW ST4
iTrader: (7)
If it shifts fine when the engine is off then it sounds like a pilot bearing. They are easily broken if you use a bolt to pull the transmission onto the engine.
If its not that, inspecting the pressure plate may be your next bet. If you verified the hydraulics then its definetely something that needs the trans to come off.
If its not that, inspecting the pressure plate may be your next bet. If you verified the hydraulics then its definetely something that needs the trans to come off.
#5
I checked the pilot bearing when i pulled the trans off to figure out why it wouldn't release. it looked fine and moved freely with no play. I greased it even just to be sure.
the PP and everything measured fine. I went through the FSM and everything checks out with pedal height and etc.
the PP and everything measured fine. I went through the FSM and everything checks out with pedal height and etc.
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#9
the slave is the same. The old slave was probably fine.
The fork moves nicely and freely.
I checked very carefully all the fork parts/etc when I had it apart. I even shimmed behind the pivot.
I just adjusted the pedal so that it sits like 1.5" higher than the brake pedal and adjusted the m/c rod so that there was zero play. Still doesn't work - but it ALMOST does.
I am starting to wonder if the step height is incorrect.
I'm going to shim the pressure plate tomorrow 0.010" and see if that fixes my issue. I doubt it will but who knows.
The fork moves nicely and freely.
I checked very carefully all the fork parts/etc when I had it apart. I even shimmed behind the pivot.
I just adjusted the pedal so that it sits like 1.5" higher than the brake pedal and adjusted the m/c rod so that there was zero play. Still doesn't work - but it ALMOST does.
I am starting to wonder if the step height is incorrect.
I'm going to shim the pressure plate tomorrow 0.010" and see if that fixes my issue. I doubt it will but who knows.
#10
I compared the pressure plate fingers to a brand new one and they were sunk in about 0.100" compared to new
I changed the whole assembly again, pressure plate, clutch etc(had the trans out, clutch replaced and back up in 2 hours) and it works!
I'm pretty sure the PP was causing the issue.
I changed the whole assembly again, pressure plate, clutch etc(had the trans out, clutch replaced and back up in 2 hours) and it works!
I'm pretty sure the PP was causing the issue.
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