Took the car out the other day and noticed it was running weird and hesitating. When i got home and checked under the hood i noticed that the TID had a slice in it. After ding a TID search on here i went to a local performance place and bought a 3" intake for a civic w/ 45 degree bend in it and chopped it up bought a reducer and a coupling and put it on. I havent felt the car run this good in a long time.

 

you should straighten out that AFM... but then again if your car runs fine then no worries I spose

nice.

 

i plan to . I just have to get a cone filter because that hks filter is to wide up front so i dont have alot of room to play with it. But soon. And the car is running a little richer

 

This is actually one of the reasons I want the S5 afm. We all know it doesn't flow any more than the S4, but it can be positioned ANY WAY. Makes it much easier to deal with a CAI or an intake like yours jm85.

 

a slight downward postion is not going to affect it much to be even noticable, the guys who say it is are just **** about having everything 'theoretically' adjusted. there is some proof to the theories but not enough to make a difference that it constitutes wasting your time or money on doing it another way.

the springs on the AFM flap are fairly stiff and gravity may affect it some but not enough to make a huge difference, if it does it will merely cause it to run slightly rich which is not always a bad thing, and when i mean rich, i mean about .5% richer than normal..

 

when i had the FMIC done the AFM was sitting even with the intercooler piping on it side du to the position of the original tid and i had no problems with it

 

I think its different for the NA's I guess. The spring is not as strong on the NA afm than the turbo one. Gravity could affect it alot more.

 

If Karack is right then the NAs are deffinetly different. I moved my AFM after adding a intake from a acura rsx and felt like i lost a lot of power many people asked me if my aux ports were stuck closed after moving the afm the problem was gone, move it back and the problem returns. I've also heard this from many other poeplo too but i'm not being **** just telling the facts

 

That is not a slight downward position (which would be okay), that's rotated 90deg (which is not).

Getting the AFM so sit nearly level is not hard. It just takes a little more effort and brain power...

 

yes i guess i didn't look at his pic closely enough, i meant a slight angle down with the AFM still perpendicular to the hoses, in his configuration in a n/a with a weaker spring it has to fight gravity and will cause it to run leaner.

if he adjusted his pipes slightly and turned his AFM more level it would work fine.

 

I never understood this AFM positioning issue. I was cleaning my AFM and the doors were stiff enough to give me problems opening the damn thing--but then again, Im a 98lb weakling...lol.

 

Something is wrong with your AFM then. The flap should move very easily.

 

I've several non turbo and turbo afms and ....sorry, but I notice no difference in the pressure to open one verses the other. I"m even running a turboii afm on a 86 non turbo (gotta do something with spare parts), and notice nothing noticable in the difference in spring pressure.

And as a side note, if I were living in NZ, then this week I'd be making my way down to Christchurch for the Hyundai 2005 NZ Kitesurfing Nationals. It might make you want to rid yourself of that dodgy 'ole RX and get a kite. humor

 

does it matter which side is on top?? I get the whole perpendicular with the hoses and level but what about if the black is on top the side or the bottom does it matter and if so which way should it be. WHoever owned my car previously I feel may have moved it.

 

i dont think it matters as long as it is level, pretty sure it works upside down

what year/model civic intake did you use? or are they all pretty much the same?

 

its a universal intake pipe that you can use for any car. Ive used it before to make a cold air for a civic so i decided to use it for my TID

 

Yes node I did the same. i went to autozone and got the one for a 92-95 civic but it looks the same as the one I saw for a 96 to 2k civic. All you have to do is cut about 6 inches of pipe off the long end and its perfect.

 

hmm, i might just do this

 

cover up or down, so long as it is horizontal. Us Turboford guys ('88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe here) have ran the same style meter in various positions for a looooong time, including blow thru so that TID issues in a swap car disappear.

 

so will this work with a totally stock engine bay? b/c i notice yours is somewhat sparse and i still have all the stock restrictions. i belive i will go do this as soon as i get an FCD

 

On my old 87 TII ,I had a cartech cast filter housing sanwiching a round K&N filter.The way it was designed it rotated the AFM 90 deg. creating a bad flat spot at approx. 2700 rpm(lean).The AFM/filter assembly was rotated such that the flapper moved against it's weight with the airflow.That idiot/crook Corky bell told me to open the AFM and adjust the afm spring,it helped but didn't fix the problem.after thinking about it I flipped the AFM(made some new filter brackets) so the weight of the flapper was aiding in opening with airflow,moved the AFM spring back to where it was(luckily marked it's original position) and voila ,no flat spot.Probably best to keep it level but can also work if it is rotated 90 deg. so the flapper opens downward.Of couse YMMV

 

Okay, maybe I made it sound more stiff that it really is, but the resistance was firm enough that it wouldn't move just by turning the thing around...

My AFM is working fine.

 

yeah I think as with most things a lot of people have different things happen with their cars. So should our flapper open downward from the factory. mine was played with so Im not sure where it sit stock???

 

Mounting the filter on the turbo is pretty silly, so relocating the AFM post-turbo should not make TID issues disappear (although it does make it easier). Even if the AFM is relocated or removed, a TID should still be used to locate the filter in a more sensible location, i.e. away from two massive heat sources...