throttle plate clearance
throttle plate clearance
ok i got a new TB from banzai racing (awesome site so ill plug http://www.banzairacing.net)
anyway, i cleaned it real nice, shines like a mirror inside. now im working on getting the set screws adjusted properly, but i cant find anything in the FSM about this...
what kind of a gap am i supposed to have with the throttle plates? are they supposed to close 100% (cant see any light through) or are they supposed to be cracked a little bit when the throttle is closed? i want to get everything spec'd out right before i put this one in...
i need to know the proper setting for all the plates, primary 2, secondary 2, and the single one. just how much they are supposed to be cracked at closed throttle. (i am putting the new tb in the hopefully correct my idle issues, so i dont want to be playing with these set screws once its in the car, i want it all spec'd out first)
its an s5 n/a btw
thanks everyone, hopefully ill get some good answers and i can do this this weekend!
anyway, i cleaned it real nice, shines like a mirror inside. now im working on getting the set screws adjusted properly, but i cant find anything in the FSM about this...
what kind of a gap am i supposed to have with the throttle plates? are they supposed to close 100% (cant see any light through) or are they supposed to be cracked a little bit when the throttle is closed? i want to get everything spec'd out right before i put this one in...
i need to know the proper setting for all the plates, primary 2, secondary 2, and the single one. just how much they are supposed to be cracked at closed throttle. (i am putting the new tb in the hopefully correct my idle issues, so i dont want to be playing with these set screws once its in the car, i want it all spec'd out first)
its an s5 n/a btw
thanks everyone, hopefully ill get some good answers and i can do this this weekend!
There is supposed to be a small small gap. However, it is NOT adjustable, the screw that adjusts the plate is glued in. This suggest that the factory does not want the average user to adjust the preset clearence, similar to that of the AFM and the Variable Resistor.
I know this becuase I tried once to adjust the primary plate clearence, and the screw would not budge. Just leave it alone. Im not sure if its different for S5/Turbo models.
I know this becuase I tried once to adjust the primary plate clearence, and the screw would not budge. Just leave it alone. Im not sure if its different for S5/Turbo models.
no, on the s5 there are set screws on the outside of the TB. small screws with an 8mm nut on them (locking nut)
the screws adjust how far the plates actually 'close'
right now, as it sits, this TB closes 100%. i want to know the correct amount to have them opened, both screws... im trying to get this TB on tommorrow :/
the screws adjust how far the plates actually 'close'
right now, as it sits, this TB closes 100%. i want to know the correct amount to have them opened, both screws... im trying to get this TB on tommorrow :/
ok what the FSM says about this:
[start fsm]----------------------------------------
Inspection
No.1 secondary throttle valve
1) remove the air funnel from the throttle body
2) Check the clearance between the primary throttle valve and the wall of the throttle bore when the No.1 secondary throttle valve starts to open
Standard Clearance:
M/T: 0.5-0.7mm (0.02-0.03 in)
A/T: 0.8-1.4mm (0.03-0.06 in)
[end fsm]-----------------------------------------
ok ... so i open the tb until the secondary plates start to open, and check with a feeler? what kind of gap should i have when the car is off? no vacuum no idle, just off...
ALSO, the fsm never tells which plates are primary, which are secondary? does anyone have a picture of all the plates, and which ones they are?
thanks! i know im annoying, but i like to KNOW what im doing before i do it
[start fsm]----------------------------------------
Inspection
No.1 secondary throttle valve
1) remove the air funnel from the throttle body
2) Check the clearance between the primary throttle valve and the wall of the throttle bore when the No.1 secondary throttle valve starts to open
Standard Clearance:
M/T: 0.5-0.7mm (0.02-0.03 in)
A/T: 0.8-1.4mm (0.03-0.06 in)
[end fsm]-----------------------------------------
ok ... so i open the tb until the secondary plates start to open, and check with a feeler? what kind of gap should i have when the car is off? no vacuum no idle, just off...
ALSO, the fsm never tells which plates are primary, which are secondary? does anyone have a picture of all the plates, and which ones they are?
thanks! i know im annoying, but i like to KNOW what im doing before i do it
there is no clearence for the throttle plate gap in the fsm. what you just mentioned above is just to see if the secondary plates are opening when supposed to. The only other thing mentioned in the fsm is the fast idle cam gap. But as for a warmed up engine the fsm has no procedure for setting the plate set screws. they are set at the factory......
oh and the bottom plate is the primary and the #1 secondaries are behind the two plates on the top of the throttle body.
micah
oh and the bottom plate is the primary and the #1 secondaries are behind the two plates on the top of the throttle body.
micah
Mine are open a hair, like a small crack. It doesn't have to be perfect, thats what the idle adjust is for on the top of the TB, or on the BAC if you have a turbo model.
Finally, this is when the car is WARM, as in, the thermowax has disengaged the plate, and it is now running without a high idle.
So make sure its open just a crack when warm.
Finally, this is when the car is WARM, as in, the thermowax has disengaged the plate, and it is now running without a high idle.
So make sure its open just a crack when warm.
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When it's off the fast idle cam, the primary and #1 secondary plates should be fully closed - or open just a hair. In other words, closed - but just barely without any undue force. The only intake air going through the TB at idle should be through the idle set screw. The BAC takes care of the rest.
A hair crack is okay becuase you'll still have enough leeway to control intake air with the idle set screw. It'll just need to pass less air.
A hair crack is okay becuase you'll still have enough leeway to control intake air with the idle set screw. It'll just need to pass less air.
Last edited by johnnyg; Sep 3, 2005 at 09:12 AM.
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