2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Throttle Body Mod

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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #26  
88rxn/a's Avatar
tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
anyone have any effects WITHOUT A/C and removing the BAC??
i think mine needs adjusted because when its warming up and lite driving it stalls on me...
but id also like to remove it..
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 03:38 PM
  #27  
eriksseven's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
anyone have any effects WITHOUT A/C and removing the BAC??
i think mine needs adjusted because when its warming up and lite driving it stalls on me...
but id also like to remove it..
Hmm... I don't have A/C or the BAC and everything's fine with my setup. Is that what you're asking?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #28  
88rxn/a's Avatar
tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
yep!!
when i get around to the TB mod i guess im ditching the BAC!!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:24 PM
  #29  
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well i dont want to start another thread, but i searched and searched and im come to the conclusion that i suck at searching. lol anyways can someone give me direction towards the throttle body mod. i searched throttle body mod, TB Mod, and Butterflies.

Brian
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by beamer242
well i dont want to start another thread, but i searched and searched and im come to the conclusion that i suck at searching. lol anyways can someone give me direction towards the throttle body mod. i searched throttle body mod, TB Mod, and Butterflies.

Brian
Check out both fc3spro.com and rotaryresurrection.com in the TECH sections. Both have useful write-ups for doing the TB-Mod.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #31  
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From: indiana
awesome eriksseven thanks alot.

Brian
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #32  
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Thanks everyone...i think it would be easier to have a step by step picture haha. Im more nervous about shaving off too much or a necessary peice. Thanks again
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #33  
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From: Whiterock
you can do the light tb mod and just take off your plastic intake and unscrew the two butterflys. Then you don't have to worry about a vac leak or screwed up idle.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 05:37 AM
  #34  
NZConvertible's Avatar
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally Posted by gxl90rx7
The n/a had a lot better throttle response afterward, and better overall throttle feel, i would definately recommend it.
The NA TB does not have the upsteam secondary throttles damped like the Turbo TB does. Instead they're held fully open once the engine has warmed up. So there is no possible improvement in throttle response unless there was something preventing the plates from fully opening. You shouldn't recommend the TB mod based on your experience because you would've achieved the same result (restored performance) just by fixing whatever was wrong with it.

On the TII though, it makes it really jumpy, you have to ease in and out of the throttle to avoid jerking.
Again this sounds more like either something is wrong or you need to improve your driving style. You should only get a hesitation if you slam the throttles open at low revs (below ~2500rpm); not exactly a great driving technique. If you're having this problem at higher revs something else is wrong somewhere.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #35  
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Regarding the removal of the BAC and cold start cam:

Fundamentally I do not understand why people do this. The cold start system helps the car idle and become drivable immediately in cold weather. It in no way costs power and has no effect on the car's operation once the warmup cycle has completed. In our climate (cool in the spring/fall for months and plenty of negative temperatures in the winter) it is a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BUTT to drive most RX-7s that have had this system removed. There is no gain whatsoever to removing this system. Now I know someone is going to say "but it makes my engine bay look cleaner!". To which I will reply "the system is contained entirely on the back of the throttle body and is virtually invisible especially if the car is a TII with a top mount intercooler". Though if you really care how your engine bay looks versus how the car drives, then who am I to convince you otherwise?

The BAC valve is sort of the same thing. For those who do know, the BAC is there to adjust the idle of the engine during various conditions. Whether that be increased load from the A/C (a significant load), increased load from electrical draws, getting off the clutch a little too late when coming from a stop or to assist with the warmup cycle. Removal means that the ECU has no way to control the idle speed of the engine so this must be set manually. Generally this involves raising the idle so the car does not stall easily when the headlights or defrost is turned on, or the engine is loaded for another reason. Of course I can already hear the replies "But Aaron, removing the BAC makes my engine bay look pretty!". And of course I respond with something like this "The only car that really puts the BAC out there for all to see is the S4 NA. The TIIs and S5 NAs have it tucked towards the passenger side of the car down much lower in an area that is already heavily cluttered with hoses and wiring". Did I mention that driving a car in a cool climate with the BAC and cold start removed means that you are in for a world of hurt? Of course, if you really care how your car looks more then how it functions, then who am I to convince you otherwise?

And what about selling the car? Good luck explaining to the new owner why the car has to be idled manually and warmed up for several minutes before it is driven...
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