throttle body adapter
10-14-04, 11:11 PM
#2
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10-15-04, 12:15 AM
#5
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GReddy started to list them separately in their 2004 catalogs.
I believe the price was $95.
Of course, no one has them in stock, so you need to pay S&H fee to bring them in.
Gee, $100 too much?
Good luck finding an alternative.
Even that $75 billet CNC one is close to $100, and I dunno if that included S&H with the $75 price.
-Ted
I believe the price was $95.
Of course, no one has them in stock, so you need to pay S&H fee to bring them in.
Gee, $100 too much?
Good luck finding an alternative.
Even that $75 billet CNC one is close to $100, and I dunno if that included S&H with the $75 price.
-Ted
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10-15-04, 03:05 AM
#8
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Would it be sold for under $100? No. Did I make it for under $100? Yeah 
What makes you think that a rubberized fitting will seal propperly under boost but a CF piece will not?
What makes you think that a rubberized fitting will seal propperly under boost but a CF piece will not?
10-15-04, 03:09 AM
#10
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Lots of cars use bolt-on rubberized fittings on the stock intake assembly. The NA uses one and it holds up to boost propperly. I thought the TII had a similar one...still learning on it though...
10-15-04, 05:17 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Lots of cars use bolt-on rubberized fittings on the stock intake assembly. The NA uses one and it holds up to boost propperly. I thought the TII had a similar one...still learning on it though...
Can you prove that?
No, the stock Turbo II one is cast aluminum.
The GReddy one is cast aluminum.
The hIGGItrix one is cast aluminum.
-Ted
10-15-04, 05:31 AM
#13
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Here we go again.... I got $5 buck on Ted in the 8th round... any takers????
Most CF parts use metal pieces laind into the matrix to reinforce the CF at the mating surfaces. the CF will crack and splinter under the clamping force of the bolts when used on structural surface. Take a close look at a CF bike frame, or, if you get the chance, the mating surface of the blower shroud on a funny car or dragster. Its got an aluminum ring at the base where it bolts on.
If you make a CF intake adapter... the best way would be to cut off the base and input tube of the stock unit and use those peices on the ends of the carbon fiber body... then use a wax plug to lay the CF over as you make the part. The CF must also be laid so that the layers of fiber are not all in the same direction.
hell, thats not a bad friggin idea..... I have a couple of stock TB plates out in the garage...
Most CF parts use metal pieces laind into the matrix to reinforce the CF at the mating surfaces. the CF will crack and splinter under the clamping force of the bolts when used on structural surface. Take a close look at a CF bike frame, or, if you get the chance, the mating surface of the blower shroud on a funny car or dragster. Its got an aluminum ring at the base where it bolts on.
If you make a CF intake adapter... the best way would be to cut off the base and input tube of the stock unit and use those peices on the ends of the carbon fiber body... then use a wax plug to lay the CF over as you make the part. The CF must also be laid so that the layers of fiber are not all in the same direction.
hell, thats not a bad friggin idea..... I have a couple of stock TB plates out in the garage...
10-15-04, 06:50 AM
#14
Originally Posted by RETed
Holds up to boost properly?
Can you prove that?
No, the stock Turbo II one is cast aluminum.
The GReddy one is cast aluminum.
The hIGGItrix one is cast aluminum.
-Ted
Can you prove that?
No, the stock Turbo II one is cast aluminum.
The GReddy one is cast aluminum.
The hIGGItrix one is cast aluminum.
-Ted
Last edited by RexRyder; 10-15-04 at 06:52 AM.
10-15-04, 07:21 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
Actually when I first got my car, the previous owner "engineered" his own FMIC including a custom throttle body elbow off an N/A car. Held up to the 8 lbs just fine (on s5 turbo)
Everyone has a different definition of what works "fine".
I think someone even tested the NA "snorkel" with an air compressor to something ungodly like 30psi???
Okay, so we know the NA snorkel can handle dead pressure up to 30psi.
What about air that is moving?
How about when the engine is running that adds vibration?
How about the added heat from the pressurized intake charge from the turbo that will easily hit 100F?
Now we got a dynamic environment that adds vibration and heat.
I tell you what, I bet my cast aluminum unit will seal and last longer than the NA version...disagree?
So can you confirm your set-up is leaking at all at 8psi?
As for the CF portion, I would KILL for a carbon-carbon unit, but the last time I checked, it was going to cost me a minimum of $1,000 for it.
The problem with CF is that it doesn't have very good *compression* strength, as YearsOfDecay pointed out.
Unless it's a very expensive carbon-carbon (know what C-C is???) piece, almost no laminate CF piece is going to handle being bolted onto the throttle body without shattering at the bolt points.
-Ted
10-15-04, 12:48 PM
#16
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
okay...I've seen the rubberized NA elbo hold up to moderate boost.
The CF stuff I use has to be baked...not sure what it is right off the top of my head, I picked it all up at a garage sale. But I know if it's not baked it shatters under any stress. This will hold up to the bolts and boost (if I go that route).
Just to point out the base is made out of 1/4" mild plate with the CF laid around it, and it tapers to a 3" opening. To reinforce that from the clamps I used a 3" stainless sleeve secured withing the mesh. For added stress management, around the base I made a ring the slips over the elbow out of 1/4" mild plate and the bolts go through this...much like the rings on top of your strut towers.
The CF stuff I use has to be baked...not sure what it is right off the top of my head, I picked it all up at a garage sale
. But I know if it's not baked it shatters under any stress. This will hold up to the bolts and boost (if I go that route).Just to point out the base is made out of 1/4" mild plate with the CF laid around it, and it tapers to a 3" opening. To reinforce that from the clamps I used a 3" stainless sleeve secured withing the mesh. For added stress management, around the base I made a ring the slips over the elbow out of 1/4" mild plate and the bolts go through this...much like the rings on top of your strut towers.
10-15-04, 11:10 PM
#17
Originally Posted by RETed
This is the problem.
Everyone has a different definition of what works "fine".
Everyone has a different definition of what works "fine".
Originally Posted by RETed
So can you confirm your set-up is leaking at all at 8psi?
10-15-04, 11:52 PM
#18
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by RETed
I think someone even tested the NA "snorkel" with an air compressor to something ungodly like 30psi???
Okay, so we know the NA snorkel can handle dead pressure up to 30psi.
-Ted
Okay, so we know the NA snorkel can handle dead pressure up to 30psi.
-Ted
That was me, and it was 65 psi. I'm still surprised.
I've never tried it on a running engine (i don't like that 70 degree sharp bend), but I am fairly certain it would work alright. I'll never know, I'll never use the elbow for a front mount setup.
As for boost leaks at 8 psi... the N/A elbow still can't be as bad as the factory engineered boost leak on the S4 TII's at the throttle body.
10-15-04, 11:53 PM
#19
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by RexRyder
By fine I mean it held 8 psi, until redline.
shiet, i dunno. I can confirm that my boost controller was set at 10psi, maybe it was leaking 2 psi? or maybe my solonoid type turboxs MBC is garbage.
shiet, i dunno. I can confirm that my boost controller was set at 10psi, maybe it was leaking 2 psi? or maybe my solonoid type turboxs MBC is garbage.
10-16-04, 12:44 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
By fine I mean it held 8 psi, until redline.
shiet, i dunno. I can confirm that my boost controller was set at 10psi, maybe it was leaking 2 psi? or maybe my solonoid type turboxs MBC is garbage.
shiet, i dunno. I can confirm that my boost controller was set at 10psi, maybe it was leaking 2 psi? or maybe my solonoid type turboxs MBC is garbage.
Connect both to the same place at the same time - verify both are reading the same.
Connect one at the snorkel - this will measure pressure closest to the snorkel.
Now connect the other further upstream.
Do the two gauges show the same pressure?
-Ted
10-16-04, 12:54 AM
#21
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Makenzie, can we have some picks of your adapter?
RETed: Calm down man, it's not like he's trying to auction this thing off on ebay, if it works great, if it doesn't; back to the drawing board!
RETed: Calm down man, it's not like he's trying to auction this thing off on ebay, if it works great, if it doesn't; back to the drawing board!
10-16-04, 02:41 AM
#22
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
It's broken. My dad's a diabetic and his bloodsugars got low while I was out...he knocked some of my **** over and I think my cast iron skillet (I use it to bake my CF thingies) landed on it...I don't know. It's got a big crack right down the bottom. I might be able to reseal it but I guess I just have to make another one.
Don't guess I can really get med, though...:/
I'll snap some pics of it. You can't realy see the damage...
10-16-04, 04:23 AM
#24
Originally Posted by RETed
Get two boost or pressure gauges.
Connect both to the same place at the same time - verify both are reading the same.
Connect one at the snorkel - this will measure pressure closest to the snorkel.
Now connect the other further upstream.
Do the two gauges show the same pressure?
-Ted
Connect both to the same place at the same time - verify both are reading the same.
Connect one at the snorkel - this will measure pressure closest to the snorkel.
Now connect the other further upstream.
Do the two gauges show the same pressure?
-Ted
10-16-04, 04:28 AM
#25
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by RexRyder
Actually this was the same turbo a friend of mine had on his 10AE. ran a 13.4 at 15psi.