A thread not related to performance? wow
04-14-07, 01:00 PM
#26
Rotax?! WTF is a Rotax!?
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Originally Posted by FCKing1995
I think your all crazy. How in the hell is starting the car and driving away on a cold day better than letting it idle to temp at 1,000rpm (if youve disabled the fast idle)... Unless someone can explain to me with a real scientific reason Im gonna go on believing that you people dont know what the hell you are talking about.
And yes Sideways I understand what it was for and it was pretty much necissary for emissions, but for people who dont need emissions I see no reason what so ever to keep using this system. There is no way in hell that reving a cold engine that has sat for overnight, or maybe even over the week, to 3,000rpm right after start... Im no ASE Master tech, but I have worked on cars for quite a few years and have done my fair share of work around them, and could be ASE cert. in several areas if I would just go take them. Ive worked with very good tuners and race car drivers and learned from them in the past. Never have I ever heard anyone say its easier on an engine to crank it and drive off right away. It makes no damn sense to me. Explain please
And yes Sideways I understand what it was for and it was pretty much necissary for emissions, but for people who dont need emissions I see no reason what so ever to keep using this system. There is no way in hell that reving a cold engine that has sat for overnight, or maybe even over the week, to 3,000rpm right after start... Im no ASE Master tech, but I have worked on cars for quite a few years and have done my fair share of work around them, and could be ASE cert. in several areas if I would just go take them. Ive worked with very good tuners and race car drivers and learned from them in the past. Never have I ever heard anyone say its easier on an engine to crank it and drive off right away. It makes no damn sense to me. Explain please
04-14-07, 01:02 PM
#27
Have someone rebuild your starter and alternator so you dont have to worry about them randomly crapping out on you. Have your injectors cleaned. Change your water pump and thermostat. That's what i'd reccomend. I dont remember if you said S4 or S5 but get a cheap temp gauge if you have an S5.
As far as the cranking thing, i believe that as long as you allow the car to build proper oil pressure before going anywhere that you will be fine if you drive it easy. Unless your engine floods because then the oil film on the housings/seals is washed away and you're basically running the engine dry in the combustion chamber. Thats why it is a good idea to clean your injectors.
Also to add to the life of your car, add a little premix when you fill up, with the stock oil metering system still in place use no more than 200:1.
As far as the cranking thing, i believe that as long as you allow the car to build proper oil pressure before going anywhere that you will be fine if you drive it easy. Unless your engine floods because then the oil film on the housings/seals is washed away and you're basically running the engine dry in the combustion chamber. Thats why it is a good idea to clean your injectors.
Also to add to the life of your car, add a little premix when you fill up, with the stock oil metering system still in place use no more than 200:1.
04-15-07, 11:03 AM
#28
Engine, Not Motor
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Regarding warm ups, I'm not going to post the whole thing yet again. But take a look at these links from a simple Google search:
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213313.html
http://www.sierraauto.com/myths.htm
http://routineorder.com/filed/2007/0...up-is-useless/
http://lists.asc.upenn.edu/pipermail...er/000024.html
http://www.halifax.ca/environment/MythsandFacts.html
And there is a lot more info out there.
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213313.html
http://www.sierraauto.com/myths.htm
http://routineorder.com/filed/2007/0...up-is-useless/
http://lists.asc.upenn.edu/pipermail...er/000024.html
http://www.halifax.ca/environment/MythsandFacts.html
And there is a lot more info out there.
04-15-07, 11:39 AM
#29
Here's my $.02
I just had my s4 n/a engine rebuilt by Ken Carswell of Rotary Connection in central Ohio. He said that one can increase engine life by ~25% by allowing the car approximately 60 seconds. I believe his reasoning was that this 60 seconds allows the oil to lubricate the seals properly. What the temperature gauge displays after this 60 seconds is unimportant; the engine has had time to lubricate itself.
I was also told not to open the 5th and 6th ports until after the temperature gauge is close to normal operating temperature, so I wait until the gauge is 1/5 of the way up before taking it above 3700 rpm.
Also note that practically any time I drive the car, it is at the very least a 15 minute drive, so the engine always has time to reach normal operating temperature. This (always reaching normal operating temperature) is supposed to be crucial to engine life.
My apologies; didn't mean to thread-jack.
I just had my s4 n/a engine rebuilt by Ken Carswell of Rotary Connection in central Ohio. He said that one can increase engine life by ~25% by allowing the car approximately 60 seconds. I believe his reasoning was that this 60 seconds allows the oil to lubricate the seals properly. What the temperature gauge displays after this 60 seconds is unimportant; the engine has had time to lubricate itself.
I was also told not to open the 5th and 6th ports until after the temperature gauge is close to normal operating temperature, so I wait until the gauge is 1/5 of the way up before taking it above 3700 rpm.
Also note that practically any time I drive the car, it is at the very least a 15 minute drive, so the engine always has time to reach normal operating temperature. This (always reaching normal operating temperature) is supposed to be crucial to engine life.
My apologies; didn't mean to thread-jack.
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