i currently have a '84 SE and just saw a local ad for a rust free '88 FC for sale, and am considering to get another 7 but have some questions.

"MAZDA RX7 GX A great looking sports car!! 5 spd, pwr sunroof & mirrors. NEW: paint, clutch, brks and more. Pirelli tires 60%. ABSOLUTELY NO RUST and no damage. Interior in great shape. One engine rotor needs apex seals. Red exterior w/ grey interior. $1,200.00. obo"

1.) how much would a rebuild kit cost? (might as well rebuild everything rather than just the apex seal while its out)

2.) is power steering better than my current manual steering in my SE?

3.) hows the fuel consumption compared to my SE?

4.) I read a thread that ONLY SE's is have oil injection directly into the chanbers and ONLY SE's have 3 mm apex seals. Is this true? Without it will the FC last shorter?

the only reason im thinking of buying it is because my poor old SE is rusting on the floor by the rocker panels and the rear suspension is also rusty. I mainly want something solid that will handle very well.

thanks

 

1) 700+ DIY
2) FC steering manual or power is superior to the FB
3) only slightly more
4) SE have 3mm seals, they seem to last just as long as 2mm.

you'll enjoy the FC. I traded my SE for a GXL and was definately happier.
you want to have some real fun though... swap a full s4 intake onto your SE block and watch how fast yours revs climb

 

hmm thanks for your opinion, come to think of it, the tach on my SE doesnt climb very fast.

 

Im gonna disagree on the steering thing. I own both a FB and FC, both without powersteering, and the FB is FAR FAR FAR easier to steer than the Turbo II. Turning while sitting still feels like work in an FC

 

Are the apex seals shot?
$1200 for a blown motor seems exspensive.

 

not if the cars body and interior are in excelent condition!

 

1. To be safe, I'd budget at least $1500. Who knows what else will need replacing.

2. In my opinion, yes, power steering is better.

3. Better.

4. FC's have oil injected directly into the chambers. No clue on the 3mm seals but I can't see Mazda changing to 2mm seals and making the engine not last as long.

 

GSL-SE > NA 2nd Gen.

TII> GSL-SE

I have/had*sad story* an 85 GSL-SE, drove/rebuilt a GXL, and currently have a TII.

 

hmmm really? i didnt really think of that, i but its definatly the other way around when it comes to my situation:

rusty SE (chipping trunk floor, peeling floor by rocker panels, palm size hole on one rocker panel, small holes in rear wheel wells bubbles on rear left fender) the list goes on!

IS <

rust free N/A FC right?

or do you think the $1200 can fix the rust?

 

You'll definitely like an FC, especially if it turbo.
I have a power steering rack and I'll never go back.
Why don't you take one for a spin and see for yourself.

 

I would agree with the 1500 dollar budget for the rebuild , you may end up spending less but you never know what you will find when you tear the motor down...

no such thing as a 3mm apex seal in a factory second gen motor

All second gen motors have oil injection to the aluminum housings as well as the lower intake manifold

as far as the steering, I would say it's a toss up. I am not a big fan of the variable speed sensitive power steering in the 2nd gens

is that price Canadian dollars??? 1200 US is a bit high for a blown up motor unless it is REALLY CLEAN or a TurboII. Is it a 5 lug car with the big brakes??? Does it have a sun roof? electric windows?...etc? I would prefer a non sunroof car with manual windows(but thats just me)

Does it have an aluminum hood or steel hood?

Do all the switches and idiot lights work??

Is the stereo surround cracked?

How many miles are on the chassis?

It's all these little things that make a car with a blown motor worth anything. In the end when you add up all the cost to fix it, you could buy a clean one that runs good

*edit*
P.S. If the car has "new paint" then it probably had body damage and not wrth a penny. I would have a body shop look at it

 

Lol, sounds pretty ghetto. Personally I love the way the FB looks compared to the FC. With an NA, I prefered the SE. The weight, cournering, the FC NA was just too modern :P

But when comparing to the TII(even though full of electrical issues....) that power is nice to have

 

OMG he just lowered the price to $980 canadian!

yes for all the tips and cue signs

thanks

 

I've heard of a clean shell (no motor) going for $500 US.

The FC uses rack and pinion steering, the FB uses reciprocating ball steering. The FC's steering response is superior, but its extra weight makes it harder to steer at a stop. Power steering is very nice to have. The FC's handling and acceleration are also much better.

Rebuilds range from $1500 to $3000+ US, unless you DIY. For DIY, I think the parts total to a little under $1500 US for a full rebuild, much less for partial rebuilds of course. Here in California the Kelly Blue Book is $3000 to $4000 US for a running FC, depending on condition.

As with any car, have it inspected before you buy it. Who knows if the tranny is near the end of its life, etc.

Personally I'd get an FC in good shape (and I did), because it's usually cheaper in the long run. Then again I got mine before their blue book value shot up.