i read ReTeds write up on it and im only one thing confuses me. what did you guys do with your coolent line that used to run to the Tb? where did you re rout it to? if i cant find a simple solution to this im probable not gonna do the mod... or can i just take out the plates and leave that coolent line there?

 

Stick a big bolt in there and clamp it down with the hose clamp... Very simple...

 

ok cause when i was reading the write up on it he said that i had to rout it some place

 

what about taping the holes from the shaft then pluging them do you think i could just fill the holes JB cold weld?

 

I just used one line to connect it directly to where it was leading too on the other side.

 

ya i didnt think of that thanx 180sx

 

what tb mod? where do i get the info on this? still new to the 7's obviously. hoping this is another mod i could use on my turbo II. thanks.
scott

 

here is a great write up on it:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
read that and look at the pics and then judge if your up to the task or not.

 

I did the Tb mod on my car 86 N/A and noticed a huge difference in the seat of the pants department..1st gear totally changed..2nd gear pulled way hard..Now when my tach gets to 5000 it falls over fast..I wish I had a decent clutch in mine so I could really notice the difference..Mine slips badly..1st to 2nd gear I can keep up with a Automatic z28..when I get to 3rd the clutch slips and makes me mad..Cause I get left..But it really does make a difference...I also have a few things done to mine as well..Such as Msd ignition, wires, Open filter, E Fan, Apexi Dunk exhaust, no cat. Now all I need is another Dunk Muffler to go on the other side and a header and I will be straight...

 

That coolant flows through the TB to the outlet on the top, then a hose runs to the BAC valve and from there to the back of the water pump. You could route it either back to the BAC valve like stock or straight to the water pump.
Remember you don't actually have to remove the thermowax if you don't want to, as there's no performance gained from doing so. This will retain the warm-up idle but still have all of the benefits of removing the #2 secondary valves.

 

This mod makes the cars slower. Take it to the track and test it out.. Every TB modded car I have seen were barely faster than stock..And that came from thier other mods like Header, CAI, ETC..

This mod is not needed. I pulled 15.30 @ 98 with only primary TB working.Velocity is the key, not flow, but flow with velocity is the key to make rotary run best.

 

To simplify, why wouldn't you want to retain the Cold Start and Secondary Rod, awhile removing the Secondary Plates? I did It awhile my TB was modded.

 

thanx for the input glhs but im gonna go ahead and do it neways ive seen tons of ppl praising this mod and only one (you) that said its a waste....

 

Oh **** and you live in Pittsburg.. LOL enjoy your mod, while you sit in your freezing car in the morning and have to hold the pedal to keep it running..lol

Ask these guys for proof it makes more power.. not just claims..


I race TB modded cars with other mods like my car and I beat them all day long.. I got my proof.. Do they?

 

well i dont think ill have problems with warming it up since it is only driven in the summer!

in your other thread there is ppl on there that have proof that there cars pulled harder. BUT i do have documented 1/4 times and dyno charts that i will compare afterwards.

note that im not expecting a HP gain from this just faster throttle response. BTW im not sure i said this before or not but i am doing this on a turbo car not an NA

 

Seeing as how your not in an all fired hurry, why not do a little playing. Take the front dashpot, the one that controls the rate that the outer set of secondarys, off the throttle body, OR just screw it until the black cam will not make contact with the damper.

Once you've done that both secondary sets will open at the same time instead of the outerset delaying on opening.

Yeah, I know the plates will still be in the air stream, but your talking about throttle response and the above should give you a hint.

One thing I noticed while playing with the turbo throttle body, is how the secondary plates open in opposite directions as they open. Odd. Take note when your messing with them. Seems that would cause some turbulence, but I trust the designer knew what he was doing.

 

hailers are you asking me to experement with this to see if it does the same as just removing them alltogather. or are you just trying to give me some info

sorry i get confused easily

 

Wellllll. It would be interesting if you disabled the front dashpot and drove it for a week or so, and then removed the whole kit and kabootle, and see if you feel a difference.

I just thought, since I've seen some advice on this site that said the removal of the throttle plates causes some small problems in day to day driveability, that you could simulate the removal by backing off the front dashpot to see how you like it.

Frankly, the turboii I bought came without the front dashpot in place, and I drove it for the better part of a year not knowing one should be there. I didn't notice anything peculiar about the driveability. Once I found out that there was supposed to be one there, I bought one and put it in place. Unfortunatly, the black plastic cam shattered a week later, so I'm back to square one. I've got another throttle body and might swap it out someday to get it back to original configuration to see what its like in original condition.

No, I'm not messing with your head.

 

As I said above, there's no need to remove the thermowax as part of this mod. You call that proof? As the lone voice of opposition you'll have to do a lot better than that.

 

Can you please refrain from answering questions unless you know what you're talking about?

The TB mod will not make a car faster (as you mentioned) but WILL NOT make a car slower. What you get with the TB mod is the following:

1. Prevents secondaries from getting stuck (since they are removed)
2. Prevents secondaries from moving slowly and bogging the car (see above)
3. Simplify the throttle body
4. Leave more room for porting the TB
5. Some increase in throttle response (since vacuum secondaries are slow)

I recommend that everyone who does the TB mod leave the thermowax system alone. Driving the car in cold weather without the hihg-idle warmup is a pain in the ***.

 

******. Some increase in throttle response (since vacuum secondaries are slow) *******

I'm just being picky, but I've a problem with that sentence. The vacuum goes away after the water temp goes up. Right? So after that happens, its the second dashpot riding on the black cam that slows the opening of the outboard secondary plates. At least that's the way I see things. Once the dashpot is removed, then both sets of secondary plates open together. Just being picky.