thinking about doing this...
waiting for the rtek 2.1 with afm deleted.....then my tuning will begin only reason i havnt purchased it yet is for the afm..
op follow my steps and you wont have to redo anything..its a great step 1 for you and will satisfy your needs for a while and lets you build from each step
op follow my steps and you wont have to redo anything..its a great step 1 for you and will satisfy your needs for a while and lets you build from each step
yes, i dont kno why ppl keep saying other wise. rtek1.x IS IN FACT A CHIP so you can run diff injectors without a fuel controller. its main purpose is to replace the need for such items. also has the benefit of biult fcd, lower secondary injector staging, etc. its all on their site..
well I don't think Its a bad "stage 1.
You don't really need the oil pressure gauge.
The racing beat exhaust claims that 60 hp because you can make more boost with their exhaust over factory exhaust. I love the way mine sounds.
10psi is just fine.
One of my cars is basically the same setup except it has a fmic and it is a blast to drive, plenty of power. My other car is more like what would be your "stage 4"
As far as upgradeability is concerned I think you are doing good if your stage 3 is 350-400 whp.
To get from your stage one to stage 3 I would do a wideband 02 an egt gauge a bnr stage 4 turbo, a FMIC, a walbro 255, move the secondarys to primaries and get some 1200s for the secondaries. You could probably also get away with upgrading the 1.7 to a 2.1 (by that time rtek may have the afm delete).
As far as a radiator is concerned, I wouldn't worry about it at stage 1 unless to get a front mount, but it wouldn't hurt either.
Also worth noting is that if you ever want to get out of that 350-400 ho range, you will need a full standalone a set of 1600s another fuel pump setup, custom downpipe, new turbo, turbo manifold and a bunch of other stuff. You might seriously consider a roll cage at that point too. I guess my point is that from stage 3 to stage 4 (if you are even considering something like that) is a much bigger leap you you might think, it was definitely more than I thought it would be.
Also you may consider an upgraded clutch even at stage 1.
You don't really need the oil pressure gauge.
The racing beat exhaust claims that 60 hp because you can make more boost with their exhaust over factory exhaust. I love the way mine sounds.
10psi is just fine.
One of my cars is basically the same setup except it has a fmic and it is a blast to drive, plenty of power. My other car is more like what would be your "stage 4"
As far as upgradeability is concerned I think you are doing good if your stage 3 is 350-400 whp.
To get from your stage one to stage 3 I would do a wideband 02 an egt gauge a bnr stage 4 turbo, a FMIC, a walbro 255, move the secondarys to primaries and get some 1200s for the secondaries. You could probably also get away with upgrading the 1.7 to a 2.1 (by that time rtek may have the afm delete).
As far as a radiator is concerned, I wouldn't worry about it at stage 1 unless to get a front mount, but it wouldn't hurt either.
Also worth noting is that if you ever want to get out of that 350-400 ho range, you will need a full standalone a set of 1600s another fuel pump setup, custom downpipe, new turbo, turbo manifold and a bunch of other stuff. You might seriously consider a roll cage at that point too. I guess my point is that from stage 3 to stage 4 (if you are even considering something like that) is a much bigger leap you you might think, it was definitely more than I thought it would be.
Also you may consider an upgraded clutch even at stage 1.
Ok so what I am getting form what you are saying is that this is a decent start. Also to ditch the oil pressure gauge, get the RB REV II, forget about the radiator and possibly get a EGT. I think you missed that I was planning on getting a wideband O2. Oh yeah and to start thinking about a clutch.
Also I am getting from you is that my 350-400 whp is a good goal to shoot for and that going above that will have to wait until I have a lot more money and time.
Last edited by Spock; Dec 11, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
waiting for the rtek 2.1 with afm deleted.....then my tuning will begin only reason i havnt purchased it yet is for the afm..
op follow my steps and you wont have to redo anything..its a great step 1 for you and will satisfy your needs for a while and lets you build from each step
op follow my steps and you wont have to redo anything..its a great step 1 for you and will satisfy your needs for a while and lets you build from each step
yeah 350-400 is not the current goal.
just brought that up to make sure what I wanted to do wasn't going to cause any repeat purchases in the future.
here is something to throw into the mix....found this and it is local.
What do you guys think? Better idea then what I am thinking or more of a hassle?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...56#post8789156
just brought that up to make sure what I wanted to do wasn't going to cause any repeat purchases in the future.
here is something to throw into the mix....found this and it is local.
What do you guys think? Better idea then what I am thinking or more of a hassle?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...56#post8789156
i was just curious because my buddy is trying to get me to buy it basically just for the turbo. He doesn't really think realistically very often however.
lol back to studying
lol back to studying
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
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From: Washington
cant always go off what the turbo size LOOKS like. its just a comp cover. scope the numbers on the turbo about whats inside. not saying a t28 is big, cause i dont think you would make 400 wheel with that...or i know you wouldnt.
supporting mods and good tune +1 to that.
supporting mods and good tune +1 to that.
so how big should I port the wastegate? And should I do this myself or do I need to have a shop do it?
Also, what wideband?
Prosport just came out with theirs
http://prosportgauges.com/wideband-a...ratio-kit.aspx
innovative which can be used with any gauge
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Also, what wideband?
Prosport just came out with theirs
http://prosportgauges.com/wideband-a...ratio-kit.aspx
innovative which can be used with any gauge
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Last edited by Spock; Dec 13, 2008 at 10:59 PM.
go for the innovate. they are tried and true and one of the most accurate (+/- .1 afr) on the market. AND they are relatively inexpensive. you can find complete setups WITH gauges on here for $250-ish or by it new for like $400 or whatever the cost is with the LC-1 + the gauge. course there always is the AEM unit. never used it but have heard its comparable to innovate in terms of accuracy.
this was given in response to a thread i started aboutthe turboxs wideband (someone had it for say cheap locally and i had never heard any feedback on it)
just look at all the units that have accurracies worse than +/- .25 afr! sorry but anything above that is just unacceptable to me. especially when there are similarly priced products with better accuracy and ESPECIALLY when you are tuning a rotary
just look at all the units that have accurracies worse than +/- .25 afr! sorry but anything above that is just unacceptable to me. especially when there are similarly priced products with better accuracy and ESPECIALLY when you are tuning a rotary
Last edited by *TOUCH*; Dec 14, 2008 at 10:02 AM.
ok well you sold me on the innovative which I was already leaning towards.
You can get it with the gauge($329) or just the controller($199). I was thinking about getting the basic and hooking up to the prosport A/Fgauge and also getting the prosport boost gauge. Do you think that will decrease the accuracy? I would like to get my gauges to all match but if I can't not the worst thing in the world.
You can get it with the gauge($329) or just the controller($199). I was thinking about getting the basic and hooking up to the prosport A/Fgauge and also getting the prosport boost gauge. Do you think that will decrease the accuracy? I would like to get my gauges to all match but if I can't not the worst thing in the world.
well you can only control timing on >2.0. but i agree that if you get a 2.0 or 2.1 then it would be superior to a safc, but a cheaper (not equal tho) alternative would be to get a 1.x and use a safc to adjust the fuel, although you still dont get control over timing
also another problem with this is idle fuel level. aka you have a 1.7 (that has preset of 550cc primary and 720 sec.) but you have 720cc primaries and 1000cc sec. although you can adjust te fuel maps, you wont be able to set idle fuel amount with the safc. you will be running mega rich at idle since your rtek thinks you have 550cc primaries. the 2.0 and 2.1 allows you to set idle fuel level *i believe*.
The SAFC + RTEK 1.X setup is night and day compared to an RTEK 2.x even though it is only $100 cheaper. It has fuel maps based on load and boost level, not just RPM. MAJOR difference in tuning and how well the car will run. Not to mention the cranking fuel, timing, ability to tune in closed loop, and being able to read all the sensors.
Sucks that I will have to go the first route though just because the S5 TIIs' 2.x isn't out yet.
Sucks that I will have to go the first route though just because the S5 TIIs' 2.x isn't out yet.
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