Spock

iTrader: (2)

I have a 87 TII that is just about stock. It has a apexi N1 single cat back, unknown blow off valve, manual boost controller, and supposedly a upgraded fuel pump (says the previous owner) which I will check before anything else is done.

Anyways this is what I am thinking of doing: Kinda my stage 1 if you want to call it that before porting and bigger turbo etc.

Selling the apexi cat back.
Then getting:
Racing beat turbo back exhaust
720cc secondary injectors
Rtek 1.7
turing the boost up to ~11 psi
porting the wastegate
wideband air fuel gauge
boost gauge
oil pressure gauge

Now I am pretty new to the RX7 so is there anything that I am missing? Is this a good intermediate set up? Or should I not talk for a week or two and go read a lot more? Also, what kind of numbers would this produce?

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

Sounds fine to me, except I don't know about turning the boost up that high yet but I'm just getting into the whole turbo setup myself currently. Have you thought about a turbo timer as well?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

an aftermarket radiator would be good to get as well

Spock

iTrader: (2)

good call, forgot about that.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I have thought about a turbo timer, but I am going to put an alarm/remote start on soon and will use the remote start as a turbo timer since it has the feature built in.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Well not sure about turning up the boost up, but I'd read a few posts off this fourm and you'll find your answer pritty quick. I own a N/A so I haven't experenced it but I believe that I read that someOne turned it up to 14psi and he wasent getting more the n 11psi. Like I said I don't own turbo nor do I know much about it so I would read just a little more about it, that's just me.

Good luck!

Spock

iTrader: (2)

yeah from what I understand the stock s4 turbo looses efficiency over 11-12 psi so I would only go to right about there.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

why are you gonna sell the apexi catback?

those are good rare units now a days.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

because it would be easier to get a matched full exhaust rather then piecing it together. Also I like the dual exhaust better since the bumper already has the dual cut outs. Plus I think the racing beat will give better gains.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

any ideas on what HP/Torque numbers this setup would likely produce?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

not much. 230 to 240.


you wont see much gains with racing beat stuff.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

230-240 whp?

I thought the racing beat stuff was pretty good, but I am still new. What would you suggest instead?

Spock

iTrader: (2)

anyone else have any input?

Should I do anything different?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

racing beat is good. its excellent quality, but like any catback, your not gonna see much gains by itself. now if you switch out your cat for a straight pipe and get a 3 in dp (the rest would have to be three in as well), then your talking about worthwhile hp gains. for instance, the rb "rev TII" or whatever claims like 60 extra hp ( idunno how realistic that is to begin with) , but thats a COMPLETE three in exhaust. 3 in dp, 3 in straight pipe and then splits to two 2.25 in mufflers. by itself a catback wont see much more than 7-12 hp gains.

your setup sounds good, except i would get a wideband for safety. also, if you are planning on getting the motor rebuilt and ported, plus swapping to a diff turbo (ESPECIALLY if its not a hybrid) i would just keep it how it is and save my money, your bill for the rebuild and fitting a turbo that doesnt have a rx7 hotside are is gonna build fast. plus your gonna want a front mount if your pushing more than 10-11psi. thats another 400 dollars right there minimum.

lastly, i would keep the N1. like sircygnus said, they are quality units and getting rare/expensive. plus, since it bolts to your stock cat you should not have a problem finding a dp/midpipe combo to match. the only thing id dump the N1 for would be a 3 in, which of course you need to up grade the rest too. i kno that there is some distaste for them, but take a look at these: www.ssautochrome.com i went with there full three inch turbo back. CANNOT BEAT THE PRICE. course you said you ant the dual outlet, which is more...

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I think you could prob forget about a timer for now. Focus on the other stuff first. If you still have the stock turbo (which it sounds like you do), you'll do fine to drive conservative the last couple miles or so to your house before shutting the engine down. Its already oil and coolant cooled stock....no need to let it idle for 5 minutes (or whatever my buddy used to do) after you park it.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

I was planning on getting the REV II turbo back exhaust from RB that is why I was thinking of getting rid of the apexi. I am more concerned with quality and gains then looks so if getting a DP and MP to mate up with the apexi will do better then the racing beat I will do that.

As for the wideband I had that in the original list. I was thinking about getting the AEM UEGO setup. Haven't figured out how I want to do it yet. I want to get all the same gauges.

i am planning on doing the motor rebuild and port later, maybe next year or so. I just got the car so want to get the feel for it before I go crazy porting it and changing out the turbo. LOL like I said this is kinda my stage I. I figure my stage II will be rebuild and port. Then stage III will likely be a new turbo etc. I am trying to do MOD's that will support what I want to do in the future. Does my list of mods for the most a good basis for future mods?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

haha, didnt even see the wideband...duhh...

as far as the exhaust goes, again, RB is excellent quality. so is apexi. if money was no option, i would definately go with the rev-II. its a full three inch (except where its splits, which two 2.25" pipes are just as good as one 3"), excellent quality, great looks, and the tone and sound level is superb. many rx7 owners say rb is the best sounding exhaust for a seven. if you like low, mellow, and semi-quiet, than you will probably think the same. all just say this: if you are upgrading to 3", then dump the N1 and get the REV-II or what ever else you wallet can take. if you wanna stay 2.5" than keep the N1 and get a dp and midpipe (anything; rb, cs, bonez, they all should bolt up).

as far as the rest of the car goes, i stand by what i said earlier. i kno first hand how much you end up paying when you buy stuff only to upgrade again a year later. you will never get back what you paid and lose money, HOWEVER, if moneyisnt that big of a deal, then go for it.

to answer your question, yes, your setup sounds good so far. also, do you have emmisions test where you live? and have you thought about hybrids? look at www.bnrturbos.com and see if anything meets your fancy. that way you could make all your upgrades and not worry about changing too much stuff later (they are bolt on)

Spock

iTrader: (2)

No emissions where I live so that I don't have to worry about.

I totally understand your point on wasting money and I am trying not to do that at all. I mean who wants to anyways. What exactly are you referring to on wasting money. I know that the rtek 1.7 would have to be replaced/upgraded but I don't think there is anything else. The 720cc injectors can eventually be moved to the primary position when I get a bigger turbo and fuel control and larger secondaries. Am I missing something?

Also, not too sure when my next "stage" would actually occur. I say next year but that is a good amount of cash to go to the next step and not sure when that will happen. I am still in school so that next step may be when I graduate (Dec 2010).

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

spock, i kno how it is man, im a full time student/full time worker as well. what im mainly refering to is is you upgrade to a completely new turbo (i.e. a full t4). if you go that way, you will need a custom dp and manifold, plus an external wastegate (most t4's use external). then of course you wil want to get a fmic. tht in itself is expensive (need the ic, piping, clamps and couplers, throttle body inlet ("compressor tube") bov, plus any welding/cutting work. if you arent planning on doing this soon then i would go ahead and do your stage 1. it sounds like a solid setup. just keep in mind that the litle unexpected expenses are what end up costing the most.

also, dont worry about the turbo timer unless you really want to, stock turbo is already water cooled.

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

i have the rev2 exhaust and been running with it for a year now..no complaints quality exhaust system and the gaskets it comes with never blow out either..all in all worth the money.
as far as your stage 1 it sounds good and is exactly what im running currently(exception of wideband, but hopefully chritmas gift)
put the purchases in this order it will be easier and more efficient(no back tracking)
porting the wastegate
Rtek 1.7
720cc secondary injectors
Selling the apexi cat back.
Then getting:
Racing beat turbo back exhaust
boost gauge
wideband air fuel gauge
turing the boost up to ~11 psi(EBC/MBC)
oil pressure gauge(stock one works fine extra waste of money)

do it in this order and it will make since and be practical and error proof, i did the mods in different order and blew my rear and front seals..so you will save alot of money learning and doing from my mistakes.

im another college student and only work summers so my wants come basically 4 months out of the year..good luck have fun

Spock

iTrader: (2)

i guess my next question is if this is a good step in the direction of eventually getting to 350-400rwhp?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

ok.

take it slow. you dont need to port your engine or anything to get that much hp.

get a corksport downpipe and mid pipe. you dont need a 3 inch exhaust. Jrat ran 400 whp and still runs a 2.5 in exhaust ( with a bnr stage 4)
send your turbo off to bnr and get a stage 4 BNR upgrade.

then get a nice frontmount intercooler. but before you do all of this, get either a microtech or a haltech.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Unless the engine runs poorly or has low compression you shouldn't be hesitant to turn the boost up. Run 12 pounds with the stuff you listed. 250whp is about the max I've seen a stock turbo/port car put out. Also this isn't a Honda, you don't need to port and modify the engine to make any real power, just a different turbo. Keep the stock block unless it loses compression and have fun. This stage of mods is the brick wall you hit before you have to go full T4/Hybrid and EMS.

You also don't NEED an EMS for a stock turbo car...there is a second gen that put down 274whp with the stock RTEK 1.7 and no fuel controller in the dyno section.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

Turning up the boost ***** nilly is a no no.

250 is more than doable with stock components. someone threw down 240 WHP on a stock t2 with turbo on 87 octane.

An ems is a good upgrade period.

an rtek is a fuel controller.

SHEESH.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

well I don't think Its a bad "stage 1.

You don't really need the oil pressure gauge.

The racing beat exhaust claims that 60 hp because you can make more boost with their exhaust over factory exhaust. I love the way mine sounds.

10psi is just fine.

One of my cars is basically the same setup except it has a fmic and it is a blast to drive, plenty of power. My other car is more like what would be your "stage 4"

As far as upgradeability is concerned I think you are doing good if your stage 3 is 350-400 whp.

To get from your stage one to stage 3 I would do a wideband 02 an egt gauge a bnr stage 4 turbo, a FMIC, a walbro 255, move the secondarys to primaries and get some 1200s for the secondaries. You could probably also get away with upgrading the 1.7 to a 2.1 (by that time rtek may have the afm delete).

As far as a radiator is concerned, I wouldn't worry about it at stage 1 unless to get a front mount, but it wouldn't hurt either.

Also worth noting is that if you ever want to get out of that 350-400 ho range, you will need a full standalone a set of 1600s another fuel pump setup, custom downpipe, new turbo, turbo manifold and a bunch of other stuff. You might seriously consider a roll cage at that point too. I guess my point is that from stage 3 to stage 4 (if you are even considering something like that) is a much bigger leap you you might think, it was definitely more than I thought it would be.

Also you may consider an upgraded clutch even at stage 1.