scrip7

iTrader: (6)

I found the article I was looking for:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Since you have the s4 casting, you should NOT have a white teflon ring around the oring between the front cover and the front iron. If you do, this is without a doubt the cause of your oil pressure problem. I find it hard to believe that a reputable builder would do something that stupid, but a reputable builder did it to my engine, so I guess it can happen.
Be sure you wedge open the clutch first. Look in the Mazdatrix FAQs for details.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

1) your oil pump is fine
2) your thermal pellet is fine
3) your front cover o-ring needs replacement.
4) when doing the replacement, note whether you have an s4 front iron (only the rubber o-ring itself will fit in the casting) or an s5 front iron (the casting is about twice as large, room for 2 orings). If you have the s4...either use the 86-88 front cover gasket, or do not use a gasket at all, and only use a light layer of RTV. IF you have the s5 casting, you need the oring, teflon surround, and 89+ front cover gasket.
5) you have to drop the oilpan to do the front cover anyway.

breckboarder55

im sorry guys, i thought i understood on where this thing is, but once again its proven i dont know as much as i would like to think i do. Sorry wedge open what clutch?

Is there any write ups, or pictures someone has?

I looked on the mazdatrix FAQ and saw no instructions on how to remove the o-ring just what i should be looking for and what it is supposed to look like.

I have to drop the pan to remove the front cover?

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

oil pressure regulator is a possible canidate, although rare, I would check the pellet and o-ring first.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Your clutch pedal inside the car. Use a bar or piece of wood against the front of the seat, and adjust it so that it is being pushed all the way in. This pushes on the flywheel and e-shaft, and locks the rear thrust bearing against the eshaft and thrust plate so it cannot fall...which is the biggest issue with doing the front cover job in the car.



It'll be fairly obvious...when you pull off the front cover there is a casting on the lower drivers corner of the front iron with a hole in it, and a bevelled edge around the outside that holds an o-ring.

The 3 things you have to worry about when doing this job:

1) the rear thrust bearing falling down
2) getting the new o-ring in place, so that it doesnt fall down when you install the front cover
3) if you choose to remove the oilpump chain and sprocket to inspect the rear thrust bearing, you have to be very careful not to lose track of the oilpump drive key, which tends to fall out the backside when trying to slide the sprocket back on. This will cost you an engine in 10 seconds flat if you let that key fall out.

You can do this job with the oilpan on...but it is considered halfass, and for non-professionals it'd probably be better to just drop it, considering it's not too hard a job on the FC.

breckboarder55

Wow, this sounds overwelming... Id like to consider my self mechanically inclined, but ive never messed with anything remotly internal on a rotary...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

It's certainly not a 45 minute job. Even for someone like me, it's pretty much a 3 or 4 hour job to do it well. Most would spend an evening on it.

You also have to worry with getting the big dog 19mm hub bolt loose on the front of the engine, which requires an impact (a stout one at that) and very often a lot of heat from a torch (about half the time, and I tear a core apart once or twice a week).