think the oil pump bit the dust...
#1
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think the oil pump bit the dust...
Aftermarket gauge reading 5 psi at idle and 30 at 4k rpm, saw that and havent driven it since.
I have a pretty serious set up and was wondering if there were any oil pump upgrades i should do when replacing my pump? Also, where would I get a pump?(from mazda?)
any other ideas you guys think it would be?
thanks alot
adam
I have a pretty serious set up and was wondering if there were any oil pump upgrades i should do when replacing my pump? Also, where would I get a pump?(from mazda?)
any other ideas you guys think it would be?
thanks alot
adam
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and if you dont want to spend the money on it, here is a how to, so you can shim it to get the same effect.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
#10
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so what would cause just really low oil presure if the stock pump is mechanical? I could understand low with a failing electronice, but not a mechanical?
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read the how to i posted, it explains how the pellet would cause low oil pressure... it may not be your pump....
but if it is your pump, the surface the pump runs on, could be scarred up, or worn..
but if it is your pump, the surface the pump runs on, could be scarred up, or worn..
#12
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Highly unlikely the oil pump failed...
The only mode of failure is if you put the key in wrong, and it fell out or sheered.
In this case, you'd get NO oil pressure, and the engine would be dead by now.
It's most likely bad o-ring in the front cover or bad oil thermo pellet in the e-shaft.
Unless you're running crappy oil or running the engine really rich?
Try and do an oil change to see if this helps?
-Ted
The only mode of failure is if you put the key in wrong, and it fell out or sheered.
In this case, you'd get NO oil pressure, and the engine would be dead by now.
It's most likely bad o-ring in the front cover or bad oil thermo pellet in the e-shaft.
Unless you're running crappy oil or running the engine really rich?
Try and do an oil change to see if this helps?
-Ted
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You are thinking oil metering pumps.. That is a completely separate system that does not affect oil pressure.
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ok, ive allready changed the oil, it seemed to help for a little bit and than it went back...
I know its not from them changing the pelet because it had been running a perfect 30psi at idle and now it is at 5...
Should I just drop the pan and take a look around?
And do I have to pull the engine to put in a new pellet if that is the issue? (or is it accecable from the inside of the pan)
thanks alot guys
I know its not from them changing the pelet because it had been running a perfect 30psi at idle and now it is at 5...
Should I just drop the pan and take a look around?
And do I have to pull the engine to put in a new pellet if that is the issue? (or is it accecable from the inside of the pan)
thanks alot guys
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ok, ive allready changed the oil, it seemed to help for a little bit and than it went back...
I know its not from them changing the pelet because it had been running a perfect 30psi at idle and now it is at 5...
Should I just drop the pan and take a look around?
And do I have to pull the engine to put in a new pellet if that is the issue? (or is it accecable from the inside of the pan)
thanks alot guys
I know its not from them changing the pelet because it had been running a perfect 30psi at idle and now it is at 5...
Should I just drop the pan and take a look around?
And do I have to pull the engine to put in a new pellet if that is the issue? (or is it accecable from the inside of the pan)
thanks alot guys
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It makes sense about the o-ring, as you would likely see an immediate drop in pressure, but not zero.
#18
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When they built the engine, was a front cover gasket used or just sealant only?
Is this an s4 or s5?....I think the s4 used a nylon washer to support the o-ring and the s5 had a groove in the cover. If I remember right, on s4 if you don't use a cover gasket the o-ring might crush too much and split. Correct me someone if I'm wrong on this.
Is this an s4 or s5?....I think the s4 used a nylon washer to support the o-ring and the s5 had a groove in the cover. If I remember right, on s4 if you don't use a cover gasket the o-ring might crush too much and split. Correct me someone if I'm wrong on this.
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I'm definitely with Ted on this one. When my engine was rebuilt, it read 0 at idle, and got up to 30-40 psi at load. I thought I had a bad gauge, but it turns out the engine builder used the teflon spacer around the o-ring on a s4 front casting, which caused the oil blow-by. Its actually backwards from what scrip7 said, also.
Also, you are chasing your tail on the oil pellet. Even if it had the stock thingy in there and it failed, it wouldn't cause low oil pressure, it would just cook the inside of the rotors since the oil wouldn't circulate through them. That said, I have never seen a rebuild that didn't use the pellet (except probably mazda remans.)
One other possibility that I ran into last month is if the oil is contaminated. My oil control rings are failing and the oil got contaminated with gasoline, which thinned the oil out causing low pressure, plus it reduced the cooling capacity. Unless your car is smoking badly, this isn't very likely though.
Also, you are chasing your tail on the oil pellet. Even if it had the stock thingy in there and it failed, it wouldn't cause low oil pressure, it would just cook the inside of the rotors since the oil wouldn't circulate through them. That said, I have never seen a rebuild that didn't use the pellet (except probably mazda remans.)
One other possibility that I ran into last month is if the oil is contaminated. My oil control rings are failing and the oil got contaminated with gasoline, which thinned the oil out causing low pressure, plus it reduced the cooling capacity. Unless your car is smoking badly, this isn't very likely though.
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its a mechanical, and I am pretty positive that it has low oil presure, besides the gauge being relativly new; the motor died when I didnt keep my foot on it, and just isnt running right.
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If you haven't already, put a mechanical gauge on the port where the stock oil pressure sensor attaches to the engine. Start the engine to check the pressure and verify that the sending unit is showing the correct pressure to the gauge. If the mechanical gauge is reading low, shut the engine off right away. If you don't have any external leaks, I would check into what Ted said.
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I think im going to just replace the O-ring and the thermal pellet and see what it gets me... If thats not the problem i just dropp the pan and do a little inspection.
Anybody have any picks of what im looking for?
thanks alot
Anybody have any picks of what im looking for?
thanks alot