2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

think clutch needs replacing

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Old May 13, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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88noroof's Avatar
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From: Bluffton SC
think clutch needs replacing

I bought a used 7 which didnt seem to be garaged or cared for too much, it drives good but the gears crunch alot when shifting.

Just yesterday at a stoplight the car pulled forward when i took my foot off the brake, rather than the slow roll when your in neutral. It didnt seem right so i went to throw it in Neutral. the shifter was stiff and would not move, it took a large amount of strength to put into Neutral (now that i think, it was probably shifting w/o a clutch making it hard) and i had to push off the road. Can anyone tell if this is gonna be trans or clutch? the clutch peddle was stuck down...
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Old May 13, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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If the clutch pedal sticks down, you have a hydraulic problem. You'll need to check the slave cylinder and clutch line for leaks, and check your clutch fluid level. If those look good, bleed your clutch system to get rid of any air bubbles.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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definitely a leak somewhere, I had the same problem. Filled up the the resovoir a few times and than bam my pedal stayed down. Had to change the master and slave
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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:05 AM
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Roof Leak
 
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so there would be no need to change the clutch?
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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 88noroof
so there would be no need to change the clutch?
No, probably not. The clutch disk and pressure plate rely on the hydraulic system to move. You have a master cylinder, which has the clutch pedal attached, then a line that runs to the slave cyclinder on the transmission bell housing. These 3 main parts are what you should be looking at. A manual will show you. If any of these parts are bad, or leaking, you will lose hydraulic pressure, and pressing the pedal will do little or nothing to move the clutch disk & pressure plate. .
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Old May 18, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Roof Leak
 
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they said, the clutch needed replacing and had already ordered the part......$674.00 installed. i felt like the clutch was gonna need replacing ever since i got it, like i said really nasty sounds when i shifted just fine. so im not too mad, everyone likes a new clutch, i wish i could show you guys a pic of my car. everyone gets a good laugh when i talk about fixing the engine when the look of the car is obviously what needs fixing. i bought it spray painted.....Tar-Heel blue....
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Old May 18, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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Who are "they"? Mechanics? Find out if they checked for clutch fluid leaks as well, or look yourself.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 02:03 PM
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Agreed. Be wary of mechanics around rotax machines; most of em don't know ****. However clutch hydraulics are pretty straight forward. Like stated above, check for leaks, and save yourself loads of money by doing the easy stuff yourself, lol. Good luck!
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Old May 18, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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When your clutch is going out it will act differently, it would only grab only when the pedal is almost all the way out and may even slip under load. The situation your describing sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, which is usually a hydraulic problem.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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I think your getting hit in the head by your "mechanics"
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Old May 18, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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I had a similar problem about a month or so ago. Do yourself a favor and search for the clutch MC/SC write up. I found all new parts online and repaired the hydraulic system in no time flat. <$100 for all new components.

Check that you have enough fluid in the reservoir first and go from there. Just follow the line (hardline) from the clutch master cylinder to the firewall, then follow that line (rubber line) down to the top of the transmission. Once you see the "system," I think you'll find it really isn't that hard of a job to do yourself.

And be careful about the advice you receive from people who do not know much about rotarys...
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