I just installed my BNR turbo and in the process of removing the stock turbo I had to "move" the stock oil/coolant lines. now I cant get anything to line up close enough to bolt them back on.

Can I just cut the pipes and leave a few inches of metal and fill the gaps with rubber hose and clamps?

The one line I see having a problem with this is the large oil line that connects near the OMP(not sure if pressure or return) as that is a thick braided hose.

 

You need to loosen the 6 bolts on the turbine housing and rotate the turbo until it's lined up.

 

everything is "clocked" as the stock one was. its just that I bent the metal feed/return lines to get the stock turbo out. now I cant manage to get the right bends to line them back up.

 

it may look clocked ok but if it is off by a few degrees it will make the lines very difficult to line up.


cutting the lines and hose extensions? you gotta be kidding me..

 

ok then, how about the HIMNI feed line kit for the feed, and something like this for the return?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Drain-Return-Pipe-Kit-Hitachi-HT18-RX7-KKK-K26-K27-/380727664973?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a523214d (not this one, as it's terrible English)

 

the BNR does not move the lines whatsoever, why do you want to create more work?

yes you can use other fittings and make your own, if you feel it necessary.

i also wonder why they claim it is 100% OE, since it clearly is NOT. i've bought from kunigawa and most everything is from taiwan and takes some effort to make things work.

 

I understand the BNR does not move the line placement, but I did during removal. I bent them to make room, but now I cant get them to bend back correctly. would unbolting the coolant line and bolting it to the LIM first then to the turbo make it easier? same with the oil feed?

but still stumped as to why the oil return is so off?

 

the s4 and s5 oil returns are a little different,and you can swap part of that assembly out to get it line up.
You can also use that PIC'd part to achieve the placement of the Oil return.

Now ,you bent the hoses and expect them to go back on,which most likely won't happen,unfortunately.
Even if they do line up you may hinder the flow of oil or coolant and that is something you do not want to do,especially with a new turbo.
Call it a lesson learned and try to acquire the proper non-bent parts.It'll make your life so much easier.
HIMNI has a flexable oil feed line that is super easy to install thoughit has abanjo bolt fitting built in and a screw on end at the turbo.Put a aftermarket flange on the turbo,bolt the feed at the front iron,screw on at turbo.Woof!.done.

 

Already ordered the himni line. Guess ill start getting stuff needed for new lines. I was hoping mazdatrix would have new stuff, they only have the oil feed, flange to fitting, which i would need if i didnt get the himni, plus emissions removal means i dont need the stock oil feed line with the extra line

 

I just took a dremel and cut the weld between the lines... no big deal.

For the record, I also had the same "clocking" issue as you... but through brute force (some C-clamps) made it work... and leak free too!

 

I know Bryan was saying he has new center bearing sections. Is this why? Does it look like your original core or is it a new one? I don't see why it would not fit if it was your origional

 

I put the BNR stage 3 on with the Himni racing blue oil return hose and fittings, but after 500 miles I was getting a oil leak. I had to pull the turbo back off to find the leak and it ended up being the POS himni blue hose. The hose was cracked and leaking up close to the turbo. That blue hose will not take the heat, trust me. I ended up putting the stock oil return line back on using c-clamps to get it in position to bolt back up. Get your money back. I also had to bend the hard lines a little bit to get them to line up.

 

I didnt get the return line, just the feed. Ill try some c clamps. I bought the bnr from a forum member so not my core. But it was all the same look off the car

 

a prybar fixes everything.

 

I'm pretty sure I just got lucky...

This pretty much destroyed my great opinion about the BNR upgrade though. There were more issues than what are posted here, but the fit-up is probably the most significant.

The stage 2 was advertised as a 3 inch inlet (so i ordered silicone elbows/piping to fit) and it wasnt.
The compressor housing in the advertised pics looks to be a nice AiResearch one, and the one I got was a poorly casted one, but at least the important parts were machined...

 

they have always been inconsistent.

and for the $100 wastegate "upgrade", save your money. buy the kinugawa adjustable kit for less which uses much better parts(all stainless and CNC machined aluminum), even though it is taiwanese. bolted right on. the 10psi actuator Bryan uses is a basic non adjustable one that costs about $35 with a threaded modification to preload the spring and has limited adjustability.

Kinugawa Billet Adjustable Turbo Actuator Garrett GT25 / GT28 / GT30 / GT35

it is also rebuildable.

why he continues to build them with those cheap pieces of crap actuators is beyond me, the turbos are hardly cheap when comparatively speaking for a few hundred more you get a real turbo..

 

Agree... if/when this turbo craps out (only gets driven once or twice a month), I wont do business with him again.

 

+1

 

I told you that you should have built your own

 

This was back when I didn't know **** about turbos... not that I know much more now (I know enough to keep me out of trouble)... but you get the idea.

 

From personal experience, it takes a few tries to finally get it right. But, I still ended up on top vs. paying the bread for a BNR.