Things NOT to do when working on your RX-7
06-15-07, 06:51 PM
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Things NOT to do when working on your RX-7
Or: Little bits of wisdom gained by trying it yourself- and screwing up.
This thread is for sharing the knowledge gained when you try doing something yourself for the first time and make a mess of it, or just helpfull little suggestions that make things easier. Allow me to start...
When replacing the fuel filter; if the rubber hose is stuck and you can not remove them, you can cut them off by slicing the hose lengthwise near the ends. Be warned that even after properly relieving the fuel pressure (see fsm) you will still get sprayed with fuel (oops, but I was wearing safety glasses), especially if you are stupid enough to cut the hose near the middle, widthwise (oops). Also be warned that one cannot simply allow the excess pressure to bleed off while you go do something else, as you have just cut or removed the fuel line at the lowest point and are now siphoning fuel out of the fuel tank...oops. You can prevent this by clamping the rubber fuel line coming from the fuel pump (but not the fuel return line), being careful not to use something that would damage the hose, such as a C-clamp with a bored hole in one of the clamp swivels....oops. Make sure you have some extra hose and hose clamps before hand. Beter yet, install AN/JIC fittings and hose ends and armored hose, and install a shut off valve at the fuel pump and quick disconnects at the fuel filter.
When changing the engine oil use a torque wrench to tighen the drain plug, if you use too much you will have hell getting it off again-oops. (and never, ever, use thread sealant) You will be surprise by how little torque is needed.
The transmission fluid drain plug gasket is not the same size as the oil drain gasket...oops.
When using a drill pump to transfer fresh gear oil into the transmission, use the least amount of tubing possible, because once air bubble get into them (like when you start sucking the bottom of the bottle) the drill pump won't be able to transfer any more of the viscous oil and you will be stuck trying to pressurize the bottle to finish the job-oops. Pressurizing the bottle works but without the proper preparation it is messy and at best can be dangerous (see aaroncakes advice on the subject).
Always remember the six P's (6P's): Prior Preparation Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.
When attempting to remove a bolt that is facing away from you, make sure you are turning the wrench in the correct direction...oops.
Buy four jack stands and jack up both ends of the car, it is easier than trying to fit under one end.
When trying to remove the rear brake pads, make sure the parking brake is off-oops.
More to follow....
This thread is for sharing the knowledge gained when you try doing something yourself for the first time and make a mess of it, or just helpfull little suggestions that make things easier. Allow me to start...
When replacing the fuel filter; if the rubber hose is stuck and you can not remove them, you can cut them off by slicing the hose lengthwise near the ends. Be warned that even after properly relieving the fuel pressure (see fsm) you will still get sprayed with fuel (oops, but I was wearing safety glasses), especially if you are stupid enough to cut the hose near the middle, widthwise (oops). Also be warned that one cannot simply allow the excess pressure to bleed off while you go do something else, as you have just cut or removed the fuel line at the lowest point and are now siphoning fuel out of the fuel tank...oops. You can prevent this by clamping the rubber fuel line coming from the fuel pump (but not the fuel return line), being careful not to use something that would damage the hose, such as a C-clamp with a bored hole in one of the clamp swivels....oops. Make sure you have some extra hose and hose clamps before hand. Beter yet, install AN/JIC fittings and hose ends and armored hose, and install a shut off valve at the fuel pump and quick disconnects at the fuel filter.
When changing the engine oil use a torque wrench to tighen the drain plug, if you use too much you will have hell getting it off again-oops. (and never, ever, use thread sealant) You will be surprise by how little torque is needed.
The transmission fluid drain plug gasket is not the same size as the oil drain gasket...oops.
When using a drill pump to transfer fresh gear oil into the transmission, use the least amount of tubing possible, because once air bubble get into them (like when you start sucking the bottom of the bottle) the drill pump won't be able to transfer any more of the viscous oil and you will be stuck trying to pressurize the bottle to finish the job-oops. Pressurizing the bottle works but without the proper preparation it is messy and at best can be dangerous (see aaroncakes advice on the subject).
Always remember the six P's (6P's): Prior Preparation Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.
When attempting to remove a bolt that is facing away from you, make sure you are turning the wrench in the correct direction...oops.
Buy four jack stands and jack up both ends of the car, it is easier than trying to fit under one end.
When trying to remove the rear brake pads, make sure the parking brake is off-oops.
More to follow....
06-15-07, 07:22 PM
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When trying to loosen the oil filter or change spark plugs, DO NOT LEAN ON ANYTHING with your elbows! I happened to pop off my resivor for my brake fluid, bad day indeed.
06-15-07, 07:53 PM
#4
1) label stuff when you take out a motor. Especially things related to the engine harness as it'll make your life easier when you put the rebuild or reman in.
2) When you remove some nuts/bolts put them in a baggie and label them so you don't lose them or put them back in the wrong place.
3) read the FSM
4) buy a haynes manual
5)Organize your tools. Especially the 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets and wrenches as you'll be using them the most.
6) If you have to remove a hose for some reason plan on replacing it as it will crack or not come off which will force you to cut it off with a knife. You might as well get some new hose clamps as well.
06-15-07, 08:37 PM
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Oh yeah, I almost forgot:
When changing the spark plugs, make absolutely sure you have the high impedence lines going to the right plug; you can have the lines going to the wrong rotor and it will still be possible to drive, but it will feel like only one rotor is firing (both are, but the timing will be way off). Make sure you have it right before you have an important appointment you can't miss, and you end up driving there (on a freeway). Oops.
K&N oil filters have a nice feature: on the top of the filter is a one inch hex. Using a one inch socket, extension, and ratchet, you can easily remove and install filters.
When changing the spark plugs, make absolutely sure you have the high impedence lines going to the right plug; you can have the lines going to the wrong rotor and it will still be possible to drive, but it will feel like only one rotor is firing (both are, but the timing will be way off). Make sure you have it right before you have an important appointment you can't miss, and you end up driving there (on a freeway). Oops.
K&N oil filters have a nice feature: on the top of the filter is a one inch hex. Using a one inch socket, extension, and ratchet, you can easily remove and install filters.
Last edited by sniperstevedave; 06-15-07 at 08:57 PM.
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06-15-07, 10:41 PM
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eh, damn VP 5gal cans with the flex-spout that pops out. Leaded 112 octane (C12) in my eyes as I ran through the Roebling paddock towards an ambulance yelling "fuel in my eyes! fuel in my eyes!"
06-15-07, 11:02 PM
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When lying on a creeper installing a transmission, make sure you roll completely out from under the car BEFORE you sit upright.
06-15-07, 11:06 PM
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When lying on a creeper installing a transmission, make sure you roll completely out from under the car BEFORE you sit upright.
When working on cars, always have a few things handy:
1. Fire extinguisher
2. Band-aids and first aid kit
3. Ice
4. Beer
06-16-07, 03:03 AM
#11
never connect + to - and - to + ! And always connect the ground to the frame, never to the - on the dead battery!
at least I got a free new battery and a new set of jumper cables ( the terminals melted off) out of it tho
06-16-07, 05:53 PM
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Always put jackstands under the car before going under it when its jacked up. Don't use cinder blocks, or a leaning tower of 2x4. Cars have been known to come crashing down.
06-16-07, 11:29 PM
#16
When changing the fuel filter...
1) Work outside, not in a garage. Even though the door was open my friends and I were DAMN lucky the light for the water heater didn't set off the gas fumes and make an explosion capable of setting off car alarms.
2) Depressurize the system correctly, per FSM or Haynes Manual.
3) Find a clamp for the fuel line, so you don't have to bucket brigade the fuel coming out back into the tank with a funnel.
4) If you feel dizzy from the fumes, it's time for a break. NOW.
5) Buy Haynes manual BEFORE starting work.
On another friend's car:
1) Unless you really trust your friend, double check the lug nuts' tightness when they replace a tire. Another friend replaced his tire and he took it for a drive. His wheel came off at highway speeds and he traveled a good 150ft on the rear driver rotor. When he managed to pull off to the side and stop, the wheel ran into his rear bumper.
1) Work outside, not in a garage. Even though the door was open my friends and I were DAMN lucky the light for the water heater didn't set off the gas fumes and make an explosion capable of setting off car alarms.
2) Depressurize the system correctly, per FSM or Haynes Manual.
3) Find a clamp for the fuel line, so you don't have to bucket brigade the fuel coming out back into the tank with a funnel.
4) If you feel dizzy from the fumes, it's time for a break. NOW.
5) Buy Haynes manual BEFORE starting work.
On another friend's car:
1) Unless you really trust your friend, double check the lug nuts' tightness when they replace a tire. Another friend replaced his tire and he took it for a drive. His wheel came off at highway speeds and he traveled a good 150ft on the rear driver rotor. When he managed to pull off to the side and stop, the wheel ran into his rear bumper.
06-16-07, 11:42 PM
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I strongly suggest buying your own copy of the factory service manual. When you run into trouble it is so comforting to have it near by to look at. I felt so much more relaxed once I had it. When I couldn't figure out how to remove something to get to the fuel pump connector, all I had to do was flip through a couple of pages and I had the answer. Had I been in the same situation without the fsm, I probably would have gotten frustrated, and when I get frustrated things tend to break, or I get hurt, or both.
06-17-07, 01:55 AM
#19
when replacing any part that needs to be sealed...... always seal it. I know I'm retarded, but when i replaced my water pump, i forgot to seal it with silicone. I went to start it and water just GUSHED out EVERYWHERE. First tiime to do that, I was so freaked......
04-08-08, 09:23 PM
#23
Don't forget to use thread sealer, loc tite, anti seize, grease or any other specified material when reinstalling new parts. Di electric grease is also your friend.
Don't wire wheel or die grinder without safety glasses, glasses are also always good when under the vehicle as debris will always fall into your eyes.
Don't skimp and bugger the job by not buying the proper tool.
Don't try to break rusted bolts loose with a cheater bar without soaking in penetrating oil.
Do not leave intake manifolds or turbocharger openings uncovered while working around them, nuts and bolts and insects and children tend to fall directly into uncovered manifolds, no fun trying to get them out.
Don't drain the trans fluid without making sure than you can open the fill plugs.
Thats what just came to mind now.
Don't wire wheel or die grinder without safety glasses, glasses are also always good when under the vehicle as debris will always fall into your eyes.
Don't skimp and bugger the job by not buying the proper tool.
Don't try to break rusted bolts loose with a cheater bar without soaking in penetrating oil.
Do not leave intake manifolds or turbocharger openings uncovered while working around them, nuts and bolts and insects and children tend to fall directly into uncovered manifolds, no fun trying to get them out.
Don't drain the trans fluid without making sure than you can open the fill plugs.
Thats what just came to mind now.
04-08-08, 09:41 PM
#24
When you are working under the car, wear safety glasses. Falling debris is no fun.
If you do choose to do the Aaroncake method of pressurizing the tranny fluid container, make sure to use safety goggles. Diff fluid in the eye is NOT fun.
I have many, many more, but not enough time. Maybe tomorrow.
If you do choose to do the Aaroncake method of pressurizing the tranny fluid container, make sure to use safety goggles. Diff fluid in the eye is NOT fun.
I have many, many more, but not enough time. Maybe tomorrow.
