Anyways, I was coming home last night when Turbo II refused to go into a different gear. This has happened several times to me--the first being from a blown clutch line, and the second being from a leaky slave-cylinder. Both times the pedal went completely soft and clutch fluid leaked everywhere.

However, this time, there are no leaks from anywhere--so I'm wondering where to start, or what to start replacing. Like I said, there are no leaks and the fluid-level is still at MAX.

Does this sound like a master-cylinder failure?

 

Dang no love yet dude?

Bump it up

 

no air in the system?

 

if the master cyclinder failed, there would be fluid all over the carpet. happened to me before.

 

I had a simular problem with my clutch some days ago... the resistans on the clutch-pedal felt right and I didnt see the reason why I coudnt get it in to gear when the engine was runing, so I took down the gear box. The prob was that the pieceses of the clutch was burned on to the fly wheel so it only released on the gear box side.

 

My Master Cylinder failed, but did not leak due to the gasket on the firewall. The fluid was leaking around the cylinder seal, so it would work if you pushed it, but then the fluid pressure would equilize by flowing around the seal and the pedal would not return. I would have to pull it up by hand. A rebuild kit was about $10. Does your pedal have normal function?

 

Alright, the clutch pedal doesn't get soft and always pops back up. However, it doesn't feel like it's doing anything, until the clutch starts getting close to the floor.

I closely inspected both the master and the slave and there are no leaks.

Also, I had another person press on the clutch pedal while I watched to see if the slave-cylinder was functioning and it was. I watched it go in and go out with no problem and with no leaks (or whatever).

So yeah, what do I do? (lol)

 

pull off one of the inspection plates to make sure the clutch is functioning properly.

how many miles are on the clutch?

 

There are about 20k miles on the engine. There have been no clutch issues thus far though.

What exactly do I look for if once the plate's been removed? I've never seen a clutch in "action".

BTW, thanks for the imput.

 

Snap... Could it be my pilot bearing? I found this post while doing a search for "clutch":

 

it could be that, but most times you would smell that "burning clutch" smell

 

as for looking at the clutch it depends on which brand you have. some you can see the friction plate and the pressure plate others you can't. THIS will only work on a TII. what you want to do is jack the front up and remove the bottom inspection plate on the trans. with a flashlight, you should be able to see the pressure plate and depending on the hopfully the friction plate aswell. have someone push the clutch in by hand, don't have them sit in the car for obivious reasons. you should see the pressure plate surface move towards the trans. with the trans out of gear, use your finger or a screw driver to try to move the friction plate. if it spins then your good as far as the clutch is. maybe something got chewed in the trans..

 

Alright cool, I'll check it out tomorrow. I just searched through 500 'clutch' threads without getting many ideas.

Can anyone rule out the master and/or slave-cylinder? I'm tempted to order a set tomorrow--just because I really don't know what else to check.

I just got a set of KYB's and RSR springs delived to my house today, so I need to get back on the road!

 

I am having the exact same problem in my 88 gxl too............ its at my mechanics now, so when he tells me what he found i will let you know........

 

I had this happen to me once. It turned out to be a transmission failure. I got locked in second gear and couldn't change gears at all. Can you change gears when the car is off?

 

Well if your slave cylinder is moving, then I can only assume they work.

 

I'm glad this thread is up. I'm having the exact same problem. My only assumption is that I messed the pilot bearing up when I put my tranny back it. Same symptoms as you, the pedal has pressure, the slave is moving, no leaks, well bled, but clutch wont disengauge. Mine would go into 5th, no easily(sp) though. I'm thinking that because the pilot bearing went that the tranny input shaft is able to move a little bit causing the disk to get all messed up/possibly break(brake?). I'm gonna order an ebay clutch kit and just use the new pilot bearing and disk hopefully, and if my pressure plate is messed up i'll use the ebay one as well, but I have an ACT setup in there right now. How do you test to see if a pressure plate is still good?

 

My slave just went out and the same thing happened to me. If the hydraulics are ok though I would suspect the pressure plate gave out

 

pull the clutch and change everything: disc, throw out, pilot, pressure plate

 

Sounds like a plan, lol.

A couple times I was able to get it into 1st gear though, and drive the car. When it's turned off, I can shift easily into 1st and 2nd, but 3rd gear is a PITA (this is without the use of the clutch pedal, obviously).

So yeah, I'm going to be pulling off the bottom inspection plate and looking around in there before I order the clutch-kit.

 

I got same prob. my gears work just fine though, my clutch slave went out 2 weeks ago replaced it . When clutch i pressed to the floor and then i put in gear feels like its weak and engaging way too close to the floor but does not slip so i assume clutch is good.. I heard you can bleed the clutch to get it more firmer from the tranny?

 

Yeah, you definitely need to bleed the clutch if you replaced the slave... The clutch pedal assembly can also be adjusted so that it engages farther away from the floor. But yeah, definitely bleed that clutch.

 

UPDATE:

I got under my car and had a friend depress and release the clutch multiple times while I watched from below.

Now, I'm not really sure what I should be looking for, but all I saw was what appeared to be the clutch disk itself seperating, but not moving even a millimeter off of the flywheel. It was like the tranny-side of the organic disk was actually barely pulling away from the thin metal disk that makes up the center of the clutch disk. It didn't look right, that's for sure.

To double check that my master/slave were working properly, I went over to a buddies house and had him press the clutch while I watched his Turbo II's slave cylinder, to see how far his moved compared to mine. Ours both moved a little over 1/2" back towards the tranny when the clutch pedal was depressed. I take this as a sign that my master and slave are both working properly.

Hmm...

 

BTW, my buddy is going to swing by later tonight and we're going to jack his car up and remove his inspection plate, just to see what should be happening.

 

have you changed the fluid lately? when they get too much moisture in them the pedal wont work,and even if you have had work done in a work shop you generally have to ask to get it changed for them to do it. my pedal failed on a hot day 2 days after buying it. I left it over night so i just got enough pedal to bring it inside and flush the system as the engine bay was cold.