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Is there a way to manually control the blend doors???

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Old 10-11-04, 08:00 AM
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Is there a way to manually control the blend doors???

my situation:

Got a RX7 that had the dash taken out, and many wires and connectors cut from the previous owner who removed the AC and blower in an attempt to reduce weight for his 'race car'.

Ive got the dash off, and I was going to replace al of the items under there, but it's too much of a mess. My climate controler, has a little harnes coming out of the unit, that i can find no home for. Ive got 3 of 4 connections made to the unit, but Im assuming this one's mate has been removed by the previous owner.

Question is:

Can I somehow manually trick the blend door/heater unit to do it's door switching, by hand? I don't mean moving them with manual force, but is there a way to run switches or buttons to the leads into the unit to make them switch? I don't mind making up a seperate set of buttons or switches to make this happen. If anyone has done this, or has an idea on how to make the doors change like that, please let me know. Right now they are stuck on the defrost position.

N

Last edited by NOok; 10-11-04 at 08:03 AM.
Old 10-11-04, 08:54 AM
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most cheaper cars use a bike style cable, you could probably use like a mx3 controller which uses cable for temp
Old 10-11-04, 10:36 AM
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Will the MX3 cable system, let you control all of the functions on the door controller section, with one cable? I thought about disconnecting the motors and using a manual control system like that, but would prefer an electronic bypass instead.

n

Old 10-11-04, 10:42 AM
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well if you are doing electronics, then yes, you can just momentary switch 12 volts back and forth and cause the motors to move.

But it would probably take a little experimentation to figure out how warm or cold you want and how long to hold the switch(s).
Old 10-11-04, 11:33 AM
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That's what I was thinking, I just need to find the pinout for the harness. Im just wanting to move the blend doors, not change the temps.
Old 10-11-04, 12:21 PM
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well remember there are no detents in the stock system, but rather the logicon tells it how far to go.

As far as the wiring, search for a thread with air mode motor test and my name, as I have posted a couple times how to check the mode motor (as well as the air mix motor).
Old 10-11-04, 12:35 PM
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If I could determine for sure, if a harness Im supposed to have is missing, that may save a ton of work. On the logicon controller, there's 4 connections. Looking at the rear, the 3 on the bottom are all connected, but there's another one coming from the top right, back from the circuit board area. Where is this supposed to connect?

N
Old 10-11-04, 12:38 PM
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I actually did find that post previous to me writing on the forum. I think the first step is to find out where this last harness on the back of the Logicon goes for starters! I bet if I could do that, or splice back in where it's supposed to go, I would be in gravy.

N
Old 10-11-04, 12:40 PM
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Not following you on the connectors... there are only 3. Two that are on the back of the unit and one that is at the end of the harness that controls the air mix and mode motors. The logicon harness going to the air mix and mode motors plugs in above the accellerator pedal.
Old 10-11-04, 01:08 PM
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Hmm, Here's the 4 connectors.... Maybe I got the wrong controller....

1 2 and 4 were easy enough, Im 99.999% sure I got 1&2 right, the #4 goes to the blend door assembly, top left area. Where's #3 go ?

Old 10-11-04, 01:19 PM
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Crap, Looks liek it is missing a piece. shoot.
Old 10-11-04, 02:27 PM
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You are missing the blower amp, which is part of the logicon where your "number 3" plug is. The plug you are calling #3 is plugged into the blower amp.

You would need the blower amp part of the logicon just to get the interior fan to work.
Old 10-11-04, 04:16 PM
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Would that also cause the blend doors to not respond at all?
Old 10-11-04, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NOok
Would that also cause the blend doors to not respond at all?
No, it would make it so that your interior fan/blower would not work.

Again, the Mode and Air Mix motors are controlled by the plug at the end of the harness (your picture's harness #4 -which is normally everyone elses 3rd plug).

I have rebuilt Logicons w/ amps instock at my webstore if your logicon is bad.
www.mazdamark.com
Old 10-11-04, 04:51 PM
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Darn. Ihave to of these logicons, and someone local jsut buzzed me they are bringing me the missing amp peice to try. Neither of these have had any action in making the blend doors work. The fan I can handle, it's the blend doors Im most concerned about at this point. It's just so silly under that dash seeign what all the previous owner did. It may turn out to be easire just putting an electric heater in the car, and ducting one for defrost, one for vents, one for floor, for the winters here. It would definitely make things easier than trying to trace which frigging wires need to be spliced back together to get those blend doors working again.

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

N
Old 10-11-04, 06:34 PM
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Yep, tried both control units, with the little amp unit atached, no signs of life from either of the controllers and blend doors. I have two blend door assemblies, and two controllers, and one little amp unit, no combinations of any provided any response. crap.
Old 10-11-04, 06:40 PM
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Ill try my spare harness tomorrow, with all combinations of blend door units and controllers. Last chance for heat!
Old 10-11-04, 10:25 PM
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Well that harness that the ari mix and the mode motors use is only to them and only about 12 inch long.

Have you tested the air mix motor yet??? You know if you have a bad air mix motor, it will take the logicons control circuit out when you try and slide the temp setting.
Old 10-11-04, 10:48 PM
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Pull the motors out put 12 volts on em, see if they move. If not you can open them up and see if the brushes are making contact (mine weren't) Bend the springs a little, so they make good contact and your in business.
Old 10-12-04, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Well that harness that the ari mix and the mode motors use is only to them and only about 12 inch long.

Have you tested the air mix motor yet??? You know if you have a bad air mix motor, it will take the logicons control circuit out when you try and slide the temp setting.
Yep, I mean the harnesses that connect from the controller, to the two connections in the larger harnesses. Im assuming this is how they would be getting power. The new dash im putting in has a fressh nice happy harness, the old one, who knows. One more thing to try.

You are saying by having a bad air mix motor, just hooking up the controller and changing temps ruins the controller? nice. If that;s the case, Im done if the motors are out. I may have moved it while checking to see if the set up works at all.

JC whitney has some nice stand alone heater units..connect to teh defrost and floor heat........May have to look into those instead!

:-)

N
Old 10-12-04, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NOok
Yep, I mean the harnesses that connect from the controller, to the two connections in the larger harnesses. Im assuming this is how they would be getting power. The new dash im putting in has a fressh nice happy harness, the old one, who knows. One more thing to try.

You are saying by having a bad air mix motor, just hooking up the controller and changing temps ruins the controller? nice. If that;s the case, Im done if the motors are out. I may have moved it while checking to see if the set up works at all.

JC whitney has some nice stand alone heater units..connect to teh defrost and floor heat........May have to look into those instead!

:-)

N
The factory heating and cooling is actually a very very simple and straitforward system. Replacing it with something aftermarket is going to be much more difficult.

The dash harness has nothing to do with the air mix motor and mode motors. Again they only plug into the 3rd plug (your pictures 4th plug). There is nothing else on that plug.

But as far ast the stock motors being out... you must test them. The fact that you are not... well, limits anything anyone can help you with.
Old 10-13-04, 12:18 PM
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I know, the plugs that go to the controller, go to a harness. Between two controllers, two harnesses, two blend door assemblies ( with working motors ) has proven no response from the blend doors. There's obviously some other wires or circuits not connected that I just don't have time to deal with unfortunately. I was jus thoping to get some defrost and heat for the 5 months of snow winter that's ahead, I appreciate the help anyway.

JCwhitney has some nifty under dash stand alone heter units, one for the defrot, one for the floor heat is all I need, and there's plenty of room under there witout the blend door, ac, and blower assemblies!
Old 10-13-04, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NOok
I know, the plugs that go to the controller, go to a harness. Between two controllers, two harnesses, two blend door assemblies ( with working motors ) has proven no response from the blend doors. There's obviously some other wires or circuits not connected that I just don't have time to deal with unfortunately. I was jus thoping to get some defrost and heat for the 5 months of snow winter that's ahead, I appreciate the help anyway.

JCwhitney has some nifty under dash stand alone heter units, one for the defrot, one for the floor heat is all I need, and there's plenty of room under there witout the blend door, ac, and blower assemblies!
I don't get why you just don't test the motors??? Hell you can even position when you test them if you want, instead you want to micky mouse some aftermarket catalyst based heater???

I just don't get this
Old 10-14-04, 06:10 AM
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see my previous post, motors work
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