JEFF1988RX7SCOTTSDALE

Thank you Hailer, and Frank, and everyone... My "new" 88 Vert is on tracks it starts and goes to 3000 rpm then rapidly comes down to 2000 then momentarily hits 1000 then sits at 750. I now know how to work the top (parking brake on then half way then it goes down easy from there. NOW, how should I drive it after sitting for 9 years? I'm guessing run it slightly hard and then change the oil again. And then maybe route the OMP to burn 2-stroke. I'm watching the lines from the OMP to see if they are pumping (I have 1/2oz per gallon in the mean time). Haven't put the new plugs (NGK) in yet...no smoke. Thanks, Jeff

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar scenario, my car sat since '96. Then I got it in 2008. I ran it semi-easy for about 500 miles to get everything moving properly again. Now I beat on it once in a while and it loves it. 20K miles later.

calpatriot

What did you find fixed it?

There is a very good article in the FAQ section on what to do with a new (to you) second gen RX7. Among other things, the author recommends changing out the O2 sensor, all the vacuum lines, and other things. I would also check for trouble codes, and for closed loop operation, before driving it very much (if you haven't already done that). I would also be inclined to to check the resistance of (or just change) the high tension leads, and replace the plugs.

Having your fuel injectors cleaned is supposed to be a 30k mile preventative maintenance item; if the car has been sitting for 9 years, you might consider having that done. The hard part is getting to the primary injectors (you must remove the upper intake manifold), but once out there are a variety of specialists around the country that will clean and flow check your injectors, with photographic documentation, for about $100 including shipping.

Don't forget to put in a new air filter...

With or without the injector cleaning, I would drive around at first with the green lamp hooked up to make sure the car is running rich throughout your accelerations, and then returning to closed loop (flashing) when at a steady speed. If you are going lean at high power, high rpm due to lack of fuel flow (injectors, fuel pressure, etc) it should show up as the light out at some point during acceleration.

JEFF1988RX7SCOTTSDALE

I have done a lot of the items you suggested. Some of them I don't know how to do yet. I'm going so see if I can check the O2 sensor before I replace it because I'm trying to save money. I don't know how to check for closed loop operation and check for trouble codes...I'm assuming they're in the FSM. I still have to check the wires, but I have new plugs to put in. Just wanted to wait until some of the crud is cleared out.
There is a place in town that does the injectors. I cost me $15 a piece to completely clean and flow test each of them. A while back in an earlier post I started most of the process to go through and clean/replace anything I could find since I had just gotten it running, but it would barely idle. I found a completely stuck port actuator, and one intake runner looked like the secondary injector wasn't spraying. They actually told me one of the injectors wasn't working at all and the other 3 were all over the map. After all of their process all 4 were flowing perfect. They even included the new rubber pieces and o-rings in the price.
I found a number of things that I think added up to general poor running/idle. Mostly I would suspect several vaccum lines. I replaced all the vacuum lines along with the OMP oil lines. Of course I started with cleaning out the gas tank and putting in a new fuel pump.
I don't understand your comment on the green lamp. Is that something in the instrument cluster?

Jeff

calpatriot

Here is the link with the method for making a dirt cheap (under $5) code checker, and how to use it.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

Checking for codes is something you should do anytime there is a problem, or once a year or so, whichever comes first.

The 'green lamp' check is the common name for what the manual calls the 'monitor lamp' check. According to the FSM you need the special Mazda digital code checker, but you really don't. You can make one for less than $3, or, if you make the code checker from the link above, you can use half of it to check the green lamp.

The green lamp or monitor lamp check allows you to determine that the ECU is going into closed loop mode; that is, that it is observing the air-fuel ratio as reported by the oxygen sensor and modifying the fuel injector duty cycle to control the mixture to a point near the stoichiometric (perfect) mixture. A single LED with a 510 ohm resistor connected between the center two pins of the check connector will do it. I made a long lead version so I could remote it to the dash and go driving to see how the emissions system was performing on the road.

The lamp should be on during idle and accelleration; flashing 8x per 10 seconds at cruise rpm (in gear, clutch out); and off (lean) during decelleration. This checks that the oxygen sensor is working, that the wiring is connected, and that the ECU is processing the signal, and that it is able to control the injectors. It can also help you identify and correct other problesm in fuel delivery, vacuum leaks, tps adjustment, etc.

Green Lamp Checker


Green Lamp Checker hook-up