I know this has probably been asked a bunch of times but have been searching for a definitive guide on here and can't find one. Am currently trying to solve the mystery of my FC not starting up (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/getting-my-tii-running-877106/) and have worked my way to the injectors. Now all the resistances check out according to the FSM, but I want to see if they are actually firing when I turn the key. How can I do this exactly? I've read somewhere about removing the injectors from the engine and ziptie-ing them to the rail while turning the CAS but I don't really wanna remove the CAS that's in there unless I have to (have heard it's a bitch to put back in place), and I don't have a spare one.

Have got a multimeter but am electrically retarded somewhat so would need things spelling out to me. Sorry for what's probably a very simply-answered thread but many thanks in advance for anyone that can help me out

 

Check this link and focus on post #12. It should help.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=starter+relay

 

That will help a little with testing as it will let me see if the ECU is sending a signal, but how can I check if the injector is actually injecting or not?

 

The light will only blink if the injector is receiving both power and a ground signal. Does this answer your question?

 

Kind of, but I'm wanting to know if there is actually fuel coming out of the injectors. There is fuel in the rail but I need to know if it is getting into the engine.

 

Read the first sentence in post #17. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...jectors+firing

Make you feel more confident? I gather you could pull the plug wires off the plugs and try to start the car and if the engine cranks then you would find gasoline on the spark plugs if removed, though doing so might flood the engine.

 

Don't want to flood the engine unless I had to. But then again I might just have to. Engine will start with starter spray, but will only stay running for as long as the spray is in there. After 5-10 second, once it has all burned up, the engine will die again. So I'm wanting to find out if the injectors are blocked or actually injecting fuel at all.

 

you can flow test the injectors, pull them out and physically look at them, or if you have a GOOD multimeter you can actually view duty cycles, or hertz.

 

take out the CAS and do the test properly... it's like saying i want to take a crap but i don't want to have to wipe my ***.

 

Any chance you could assist then with a mechanical retard's guide to removing and replacing CAS?

Also, in Japan many toilets have the auto cleaning feature after you take a crap. You never want to wipe again!

 

look at the pulley near the timing mark on the front cover, there's 2 marks, the one towards the driver's side mark it with a pen or paint marker. when you take out the CAS there is a dot on the drive gear and a raised boss on the housing just above the gear. when reinstalling take the 2 phillips screws off the top cover and note the position of the pointer versus the sensor when the dot and boss are lined up and drop the CAS into the bore with the stud in the center portion of the alignment slot, hold the gear from the top to keep it from spinning until it starts to mesh with the gear on the engine.

leave the cover and mount nut off until you start and time the engine, in case you have to move the CAS 1 tooth forward or back. warm up the engine fully and hook up a timing light, make sure the idle is below 1k RPMs and hook up a ground wire to the single green connector right next to the leading coil and restart the car making sure the idle is still below 1k RPMs and your timing light lead is hooked up to L1 on the leading coil pack high tension lead and point the light at the timing marks on the pulley, it should align with the mark you made previously on the pulley when set properly. you can see what i mean by checking the timing before taking everything apart if the engine is running still.

 

One single fastener holds the CAS in the engine. Remove that fastener and remove the elect plug from the CAS while there.

Go about whatever you going to do with the CAS removed.

Reinstall the CAS.................first turn the front pulley in a clockwise direction (looking from front to rear on the engine), til the first hash mark on the pulley is opposite the fixed pin on the front cover.

Prior to installing the CAS, look at the botton gear of the CAS. Make sure the mark on the rotating lower gear is opposite the hash mark on the body of the CAS. Hold the CAS in that position.

Now, with the flat black cover removed from the top of the CAS (held with just two small screws), observe the relationship of the two pointers on the top of the rotor with a fixed, non moving part of the CAS's body.

Now insert the CAS into the engine. Once the CAS is in the engine, rotate the BODY of the CAS til the two pointers on the top of the rotor of the CAS are once again aligned with the fixed , non moving place on the CAS's body. Then cinch the CAS hold down fastener down to hold the CAS in place.

Two jpgs attached. One showing the pulley and the fixed pointer on the cover and the other jpg is of the top of the CAS (cover removed) and where the two pointers should be if the CAS is installed right.

The two pointers should cut across the corners of the two black sensors in the jpg. My jpg is just a touch off due to circumstances beyond my control.

 

Kudos to you for a great writeup! I think maybe even I could follow that one. The engine's not showing any chance of starting, nevermind being able to warm up fully, so that 2nd bit might be a bit ahead of me.

So once the CAS is out I pull the injectors but keep them attached to the rail and spin the CAS by hand. As it spins the injectors should fire, right?

 

yes but you will need to zip tie the injectors or use bailing wire to hold them to the fuel rails. the rails will have 40 PSI of pressure in them so it will be easy for them to blow the injectors out of the rails if they aren't secure.

 

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Yes. OR you could do this. Remove the CAS and leave its elect plug on the CAS. Now go to the Lead and TRail coil assy's and remove the WHITE elect plugs going to them so there will be no spark.

Key to ON. Now spin the CAS bottom gear and listen. You should be able to hear the primary injectors clicking. The CAS bottom gear does not have to be spun very fast at all to do this. IF you hear no sound of the primary injectors...........then don't pull the fuel rails out as you mentioned. No click means there is an electrical problem.

You remove the small white elect plugs from the Lead and Trail coil assy so you do not mistake the sparking of the sparkplugs from the clicking of the fuel injectors. The sparkplugs sparking will confuse the issue. The sparkplug wires do not have to be removed from the trail coil assy to do this. Just unbolt the three small nuts holding the trai coil assy in the car and just lift the coil assy up and out of the way to access the two small white elect plugs on the trail coil assy. The lead coil assy does not require this being done. It's small two wire white elect plug is easily accessed.

IF I had done this and there was no clicking of the primary injectors when the CAS bottom gear was spum by hand..............and I KNEW the ENGINE and EGI fuses are good, and that the MAIN RELAY was heard pulling in with putting the key just to ON............................I"d pull the SMALL ECU plug off the series four ECU and with a digital meter see if there is batt voltage on the LIGHT GREEN and the LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wire on the top row of that small plug. Should be there.

The jpg showing the CAS install is from the ENGINE ELECTRICAL section of the seires four FSM and the FUEL AND EMISSONS sections of the FSM.

 

Great bits of advice. Tomorrow I'll try the method with the injectors still in before I pull it and check. Many thanks

 

keep in mind fuel will still be being injected so you will have to unflood the engine prior to starting. at least if you attempt it for more than a few seconds

 

IF it's a series four engine, and you NEVER hold the key to Start, then the fuel pump will not pressurize the fuel rails prior to when you spin the CAS's bottom gear. Also, make sure the fuel pump check connector is not jumpered prior to doing this.

Or if the car has a fuel cut switch.....turn the switch to OFF prior to spinning the CAS bottom gear.

Do that and there will be no flooding of the engine, just the click of the fuel injectors as the CAS bottom gear is rotated.