testing afm
07-08-07, 09:25 PM
#1
everything will be okay
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testing afm
ok, i searched through about 40 pages of stuff on testing the afm. i found all sorts of threads saying that people have tested it/ need to test it, but i did not find one single thread actually saying HOW to test it. so, in short, how the hell do you test the afm? btw, its an S4.
07-08-07, 10:09 PM
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Rotorhead
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Too bad Mazda didn't make a manual for something like that. Even if something like that did exist, I'm sure the lazy moderators of this forum wouldn't spend hours on end to put something like that in the FAQ to help answer questions like this. Oh well, I think you are basically just up the creek.
07-09-07, 12:58 AM
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everything will be okay
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wow, its great to hear such kind words from another 7 owner. no wonder people call this the evil forum. i guess i didnt realize that it was such a big deal to ask a question and hope to get an anwser, not sarcasim. thank you for your help.
07-09-07, 07:14 AM
#4
HAILERS
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In other words it's in the FSM in the FUEL SECTION.
This inspection isn't of much use. It just ohms out the air temp sensor, the value of the pot and the connection b/t the wiper and the pot.
There is no value for output of the wiper at a given distance from *stop*. So usually the inspection per FSM isn't going to do anyone any good other than to find an *open* when the thing is at rest.
Or let's just say there's no way to see if the calibration of the unit is worth a flip other than to have it calibrated by a *shop* at a cost of several hundred bucks.
The best or nearest I can come to "calibrating" one, is to find one or more that no body has MESSED with, and then connect a shop vacuum cleaner to on the engine side of the afm. Then with a RTEK2.0 connected to the ECU, read the airflow from the *not messed with AFM* and compare it to the ????????AFM's airflow. If the ??????AFM is off, then adjust the spring tension inside to match the *not messed with afm*.
This inspection isn't of much use. It just ohms out the air temp sensor, the value of the pot and the connection b/t the wiper and the pot.
There is no value for output of the wiper at a given distance from *stop*. So usually the inspection per FSM isn't going to do anyone any good other than to find an *open* when the thing is at rest.
Or let's just say there's no way to see if the calibration of the unit is worth a flip other than to have it calibrated by a *shop* at a cost of several hundred bucks.
The best or nearest I can come to "calibrating" one, is to find one or more that no body has MESSED with, and then connect a shop vacuum cleaner to on the engine side of the afm. Then with a RTEK2.0 connected to the ECU, read the airflow from the *not messed with AFM* and compare it to the ????????AFM's airflow. If the ??????AFM is off, then adjust the spring tension inside to match the *not messed with afm*.
07-10-07, 02:48 PM
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...or, do the shop vac technique with both AFMs out and in series, then with a DMM, tension the spring in the unknown AFM until it reads the same resistance as the good AFM.
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