Temp gauge not working , coolant boils after shutting off car
07-16-05, 08:48 PM
#1
Temp gauge not working , coolant boils after shutting off car
ok i dont know why but my temp gauge is not working, the only thing i dont have connected is the switch on the bottom of the radiator on the right side ( had thought this was where u got the reading from but i guess not )
the coolant will be boiling after i shut the car off when its just idling , today i gave it a short ride like 10 min or so ride and it was boiling after that when i shut it off also, i do have the wire under the oil filter connected so i dont kno why i am not picking up any temperature ? how can i fix this problem ??
i just dont want to mess up my motor its rebuilt and just started a few days ago
edit - could it be a bad sender ? maybe thats my problem...the guy before me that had my motor suffered to a blown coolant seal , maybe thats why
the coolant will be boiling after i shut the car off when its just idling , today i gave it a short ride like 10 min or so ride and it was boiling after that when i shut it off also, i do have the wire under the oil filter connected so i dont kno why i am not picking up any temperature ? how can i fix this problem ??
i just dont want to mess up my motor its rebuilt and just started a few days ago
edit - could it be a bad sender ? maybe thats my problem...the guy before me that had my motor suffered to a blown coolant seal , maybe thats why
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-16-05 at 08:55 PM.
07-16-05, 08:56 PM
#3
bad ts what is that ? thermostat ? i replaced that already!!!
bad ts ? ok ill replace that , its a new motor i would hope i didnt do anything bad, id be very pissed, i put my blood sweat and devotion into this car for over 9 months and put about 90 hours or more of work into it
besides my motor does have a warranty on it but thats besides the point
Originally Posted by iceblue
It is over heating! Hope you didnt smoke the motor.
Bad TS.
Dunno about the gauge could be meany things. Just get a water temp gauge. I sugest EGT as well.
Bad TS.
Dunno about the gauge could be meany things. Just get a water temp gauge. I sugest EGT as well.
bad ts ? ok ill replace that , its a new motor i would hope i didnt do anything bad, id be very pissed, i put my blood sweat and devotion into this car for over 9 months and put about 90 hours or more of work into it
besides my motor does have a warranty on it but thats besides the point
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-16-05 at 09:03 PM.
07-16-05, 10:04 PM
#4
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If I remember right, the gauge gets it reading from the single wire sensor on the side of the block, but the ECU gets its reading from the sensor in the back of the water pump housing. Its been a long day so I could be wrong.
07-16-05, 10:29 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Project84
If I remember right, the gauge gets it reading from the single wire sensor on the side of the block, but the ECU gets its reading from the sensor in the back of the water pump housing. Its been a long day so I could be wrong.
as far as the one on the waterpump, if this were bad it would cause your car to run hot ? ill see how she runs tommorow, what is considered warmed up , 1/2 way ? i know stock gauge sux but i dont have anything else right now unless i go get an aftermarket gauge
07-17-05, 12:05 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
as far as the one on the waterpump, if this were bad it would cause your car to run hot ?
ill see how she runs tommorow, what is considered warmed up , 1/2 way ? i know stock gauge sux but i dont have anything else right now unless i go get an aftermarket gauge
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07-17-05, 07:10 PM
#10
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Sounds like the system isn't full and burped, or youve got a stuck thermostat.
Best find out why really quick-like.
Best find out why really quick-like.
I definitely dont want to ruin my coolant seals i am really worried i hurt them or something i just want to know they are fine, you should know since you rebuilt my engine. I finally got it running like 5 days ago , runs nice with exception of some minor problems im having with some other things (including this)
I drove it today for about 20-25 mins , stopped to get air in tires and gas, i assume that heat soaked..
well right now i just shut the car off and it was gargling / boiling, i know because when i took the hose for theoverflow out it was spraying out steam
i did swap the sender from my parts engine onto my car and the temp gauge is working , it was registering 1/4 of the way but yet seems like it is probably wrong
i dont know what the problem is but i definitely dont want to ruin my engine and this is having me all stressed out now. Could it be a defective thermostat ? other than the thermostat what else could it be ? i replaced my waterpump that is brand new
clutch fan ? i dont really know much about how that works
oh and as far as the coolant i topped that off like 3 times now but i guess it wouldnt hurt to put some more water/coolant in... i also have some waterwetter not that its going to help my problem
im also leaking oil out of my oil filter housing but im not so much concerned about that as i am the overheating, im not going to drive it anymore until i get all my problems fixed this is just worrying me silly
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-17-05 at 07:16 PM.
07-17-05, 07:36 PM
#11
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If your coolant is boiling or steaming, you probably shouldn't be driving!
And if you're pulling the hoses/caps off after you've driven, when it's still hot, of course **** is going to spray out its pressurized and hot.
Is it pouring into the overflow bottle?
And if you're pulling the hoses/caps off after you've driven, when it's still hot, of course **** is going to spray out its pressurized and hot.
Is it pouring into the overflow bottle?
07-17-05, 07:48 PM
#12
Originally Posted by dDuB
If your coolant is boiling or steaming, you probably shouldn't be driving!
And if you're pulling the hoses/caps off after you've driven, when it's still hot, of course **** is going to spray out its pressurized and hot.
Is it pouring into the overflow bottle?
And if you're pulling the hoses/caps off after you've driven, when it's still hot, of course **** is going to spray out its pressurized and hot.
Is it pouring into the overflow bottle?
this was only my 3rd time driving it! im just anxious but i kno i shouldnt be driving it and i hope and pray what happened isnt going to kill me in the long run so im going to work on other things on the car and wait to drive it until I am 150% sure it is ready for the road
a mechanic i know locally that is really good is coming wednesday to help me out, wish me luck
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-17-05 at 07:50 PM.
07-17-05, 08:17 PM
#13
I think I'd pull that thermostat and either replace it with a new mazda one, or at least take it and boil it along with a candy themometer to see when it opens, should be around 180-185.
Before replacing it, backfill the system under the thermostat in the waterpump housing, then install the thermostat, the neck, and fill the rest of the system. When it seems full, put the cap on, squeeze and release the upper rad hose repeatedly for 5 seconds, remove the cap and repeat until it won't hold any more. Then fire it up.
I can't tell you whether or not it got hot enough to hurt anything, but it's unlikely. All I know is that it ran for a few hours on the engine stand with no problems, as they all do before being sent out.
Before replacing it, backfill the system under the thermostat in the waterpump housing, then install the thermostat, the neck, and fill the rest of the system. When it seems full, put the cap on, squeeze and release the upper rad hose repeatedly for 5 seconds, remove the cap and repeat until it won't hold any more. Then fire it up.
I can't tell you whether or not it got hot enough to hurt anything, but it's unlikely. All I know is that it ran for a few hours on the engine stand with no problems, as they all do before being sent out.
07-18-05, 12:27 AM
#14
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I think I'd pull that thermostat and either replace it with a new mazda one, or at least take it and boil it along with a candy themometer to see when it opens, should be around 180-185.
Before replacing it, backfill the system under the thermostat in the waterpump housing, then install the thermostat, the neck, and fill the rest of the system. When it seems full, put the cap on, squeeze and release the upper rad hose repeatedly for 5 seconds, remove the cap and repeat until it won't hold any more. Then fire it up.
I can't tell you whether or not it got hot enough to hurt anything, but it's unlikely. All I know is that it ran for a few hours on the engine stand with no problems, as they all do before being sent out.
Before replacing it, backfill the system under the thermostat in the waterpump housing, then install the thermostat, the neck, and fill the rest of the system. When it seems full, put the cap on, squeeze and release the upper rad hose repeatedly for 5 seconds, remove the cap and repeat until it won't hold any more. Then fire it up.
I can't tell you whether or not it got hot enough to hurt anything, but it's unlikely. All I know is that it ran for a few hours on the engine stand with no problems, as they all do before being sent out.
07-18-05, 01:08 AM
#15
That being the case, it's probably just not fully filled. Pul the thermostat neck, thermostat, backfill the system under the tstat, replace it, and continue burping as described above. Sometimes air gets trapped under a closed (cold) thermostat and will not allow you to fill the entire system up, and air does nothing to cool the internals, while what little water is there boils quickly.
You can run with no thermostat for a short period of time, but I wouldnt go very far with it that way. There's no reason you cant get it working properly as is, anyway. You can actually overheat an otherwise good engine/cooling system by removing the thermostat and sustaining mid/high revs (such as on the highway) because the pump moves coolant too fast for the radiator to exchange heat. The thermostat slows teh flow down some allowing the coolant enough dwell time in the rad. to cool off before re-entering the engine.
You can run with no thermostat for a short period of time, but I wouldnt go very far with it that way. There's no reason you cant get it working properly as is, anyway. You can actually overheat an otherwise good engine/cooling system by removing the thermostat and sustaining mid/high revs (such as on the highway) because the pump moves coolant too fast for the radiator to exchange heat. The thermostat slows teh flow down some allowing the coolant enough dwell time in the rad. to cool off before re-entering the engine.
07-18-05, 01:49 AM
#16
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
That being the case, it's probably just not fully filled. Pul the thermostat neck, thermostat, backfill the system under the tstat, replace it, and continue burping as described above. Sometimes air gets trapped under a closed (cold) thermostat and will not allow you to fill the entire system up, and air does nothing to cool the internals, while what little water is there boils quickly.
You can run with no thermostat for a short period of time, but I wouldnt go very far with it that way. There's no reason you cant get it working properly as is, anyway. You can actually overheat an otherwise good engine/cooling system by removing the thermostat and sustaining mid/high revs (such as on the highway) because the pump moves coolant too fast for the radiator to exchange heat. The thermostat slows teh flow down some allowing the coolant enough dwell time in the rad. to cool off before re-entering the engine.
You can run with no thermostat for a short period of time, but I wouldnt go very far with it that way. There's no reason you cant get it working properly as is, anyway. You can actually overheat an otherwise good engine/cooling system by removing the thermostat and sustaining mid/high revs (such as on the highway) because the pump moves coolant too fast for the radiator to exchange heat. The thermostat slows teh flow down some allowing the coolant enough dwell time in the rad. to cool off before re-entering the engine.
but hope to have some work done soon 
07-18-05, 12:35 PM
#19
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I agree with the idea the system is not full. Remove the thermostat and then put just the housing back on and leave the thermostat out. Then fill the system and go for a drive. IF after driving the car acts normal, then reinstall the thermostat. Done.
I've done that *not fully full* (even though it seemed full) act myself and scared myself. I did the above and all was well.
I've done that *not fully full* (even though it seemed full) act myself and scared myself. I did the above and all was well.
07-18-05, 02:30 PM
#20
Originally Posted by HAILERS
I agree with the idea the system is not full. Remove the thermostat and then put just the housing back on and leave the thermostat out. Then fill the system and go for a drive. IF after driving the car acts normal, then reinstall the thermostat. Done.
I've done that *not fully full* (even though it seemed full) act myself and scared myself. I did the above and all was well.
I've done that *not fully full* (even though it seemed full) act myself and scared myself. I did the above and all was well.
i also tested the thermostat, but i didnt get a thermometer to test the temp it opens at, but it opened when the water was boiling (is that too hot ?)
the thermostat is new
i also have my coolant hose rerouted from the rear iron (on the left back side of the block), to the back of the waterpump , i dont know if this has anything to do with anything
is there anything else that could be causing my problems ? what about the belts not being tight enuf ? the connector on the waterpump (whats this do) ?
edit - could i have a bad thermostat (even tho it is new). It seems like it must be opening up late or maybe i could be wrong who knows, but why would the car be boiling after i shut it off if the ts was working properly (ill test to see what temp its opening at later), i would think it should be opening at like 180 degrees or around there ?
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-18-05 at 02:37 PM.
07-18-05, 02:53 PM
#21
You could have a bad coolant pressure cap, letting coolant out when it isn't supposed to.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
07-18-05, 03:17 PM
#22
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
You could have a bad coolant pressure cap, letting coolant out when it isn't supposed to.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
i took it for like a 5-10 min drive like this and it was reading at about an 1/8th
07-18-05, 04:42 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
You could have a bad coolant pressure cap, letting coolant out when it isn't supposed to.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
At a certain point you're going to have to figure this out yourself, there's only so much speculation that can be done over the internet without being in front of the car.
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