I found a WICKED article on how to do this, and it wasn't by searching here. All the searching that I did here pointed to a dead *** link that points to this site

http://k2rd.freeservers.com/FC3S/TB/tb.html

Doesn't work.
So I did some searching on google for "reted's TB mod" and found his new site, but no links to the mod.. I think he abandoned it.

So I searched for RX7 TB mod and found a page with a link of all kinds of mods here , from there I found the following beautifull link to the TB mod

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html

Very detailed. If you guys already knew about this, I searched for it quite a bit and found nothing but the old link. But this is news to me.


So anyways, onto the questions.

Is the bogging really noticable when you jar the throttle? like will it stall the engine if you floor it?
-I may want to reconsider doing this if thats the case.

I posted about the thermowax before, and was told that if you remove it, the ECU still controlls the AWS and will use the BAC valve to do the job if the thermowax is gone.. My question is, will doing the tb mod (with wax removal) have the BAC compensate and still have it idle at 3k rpms? or is it a half and half thing, so the thermowax say opened the throttle to 1.5krpms and the bac did the other 1.5krpm?

Sound confusing? sorry, not to sure how else to say it.

thx for your time.

you guys are awesome so far, I love posting here, people like wayne and nzconvertible make this place extremley resourcefull. Although I think that nzconvertable can be a grump sometimes , he always knows his **** (thank you).


Brent

 

Let's see if "grumpy" can help you out...

If you do it at low rpm then yes, but you have to slam the throttle open. Above ~3000rpm it's not a problem. You quickly learn what not to do, and avoid doing it. It is a very minor downside compared to the benefits.

Not even close. It's just a momentary hiccup. It's all over in a few tenths of a second, but you definitely know it's happened.

No, the thermowax is there for a different reason and does a different job. Without it, your cold idle will be much worse, even with the BAC and AWS valves present.

The thermowax only bumps the idle up to 900-1000rpm. This lasts for 5-10minutes depending on ambient temp. The 3000rpm start is caused by the BAC and AWS valves being held open, and only lasts for 17 seconds.

Note that the full "TB mod" actually consists of two seperate parts; removing the thermowax and its linkage and removing the double-throttle system and its linkage. These two system are not connected or related in any way. If you want improved throttle response (Turbos ONLY) and a decent cold idle, then do wat I did and remove the double-throttle system and leave the thermowax in place and operating normally.

 

you da man!

thx bro.

Last question. I noticed the mod was meant for turbo's, is it a good idea for my N/A? im thinking so for better top end?

 

I didn't realise you were talking about an NA. The little stumble after doing the TB mod is a Turbo problem, not NA.

The TB mod won't make much difference to NA's. All you're doing airflow-wise is removing a pair of throttles that are closed until the car warms up and then held open the rest of the time. Considering the massive size of the TB compared to the NA's output, I can't see those open throttles being very restrictive.

Removing those throttles does however allow you to considerably reshape the inside of the TB to improve flow. This will have more of an effect.

 

why do my throttle bodies look different than the pictures in that link? is that off a turbo because i have one from my 87 and my 90 and neither look exactly like that one...

 

you are correct... its off of a turbo... look at my link in the sig and youll see one like your 87 .... but mines also ported heh

 

ill have to post a pic off mine, i ported the hell out of it and it looks awsome

 

does anyone have clear pictures of an N/A tb completely modded? some of the pictures in that writeup are like upside down lol i kept getting confused