satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to test the G/Y wire again as it should read 0 volts w/key to on and then breifly flash to 5 volts as the main pulley rotates and then back to 0 volts. And perhaps take the reading from the front of the plug instead of backprobing and if all else fails then take the reading from the ECU at pin 1H.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've been testing from the front of the plug, but I can test it again. Not sure if I'll get it in tonight or not, but I can tomorrow when I get home from work.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

More testing and results were pretty much the same

I retested Boost sensor and it shows 4.9V
I restest the G/Y on leading coil and it shows 1.35v and never changes while I hand turn the engine.
I did a back probe on ECU 1H and it showed mV with no change while I hand cranked the engine.
While I was back probing the ECU I also test the 3 CAS pins. 3E, 3G, and 3H showed 10mV with key to On.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a spare CAS perhaps?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

We are on the same page, I have spare CAS and coils. All were good last time they were in a running engine. My plan in the AM is to start swapping parts.

satch

iTrader: (1)

As far as the back up CAS is concerned, you can just unplug the installed one and plug in the back up and then see if you have a problem getting the lead coil to fire, or the G/Y wire from changing voltage values.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Well, overall I seem to have larger electrical problems than just this coil issue. The new yellow top I put in a few days ago is now down to 6.6V. I've been keeping an eye on it cause I've had indications that I have a parasitic drain. The day after it was new charge was at 11.8V. Yesterday it was down to 10.9V. Came out this morning and put the different CAS in and then found that the battery is low. Now I was leaving the key to On quite a bit while I was writing down results, changing connectors, etc. So that can account for some of the drain, but it's pretty clear I've got a drain on it. It's being charged and soon as it's ready I can see if the CAS changed anything.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

My concern is going back to the insulation I melted off and the wiring I replaced. Going back to my first post. I accomplished melting insulation off. I'll make a list so it's easier to read.

1. B1-08 Check Connector B/W wire near the battery, to B1-01 Main Relay
2. B1-01 Main Relay W/R to X-02 EGI fuse
3. B1-01 Main Relay W/L to X-02 EGI fuse

I replaced

1. B1-01 Main Relay
2. B1-08 Check Connector

Wiring I replaced

1. B1-01 Main Relay W/R to X-02 EGI fuse
2. B1-01 ]Main Relay W/L to X-02 EGI fuse
3. I ended up simply splicing into B1-08 Check Connector B/W to B1-01 Main Relay. After looking at the diagrams I saw B/W also ties into two harnesses. One each, on driver side and passenger side. Rather than try to replace all that wiring I spliced into the B/W wiring going into the driver side harness.

In addition to all that, I was looking at Z-28 of the FSM and I'm seeing B/Y from Main Relay to each of the coils. I'm going out on a limb here and thinking my problem may not be the components, but that harness.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to try measuring for the amperage draw you are incurring. An alternator could cause an amperage draw so disconnecting the alternator might be in the cards (involves two wires). You could also pull the EGI fuse to see if that helps matters as well.

And when you say you spliced the B/W wire from the check connector into B1-01 this could be wrong as the B/W wire at the Main Relay is from B1-02. You want the B/W check connector wire to have voltage w/key to on and not constant voltage in case that is how you currently have it wired (the B/W wire powers the ECU and a group of solenoids).

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Yes, you are correct. It is B1-02. So B1-08 Check Connector B/W to B1-02. I didn't see the two different connector indicators on Z-28. On the diagram I only saw the connector indicator to the left. IIRC B1-01 didn't take any damage, but I'll recheck it when I'm putting the recharged battery back in....in fact I'll take the battery tray off and look over that wiring again. I didn't take notes when I was doing it and my ADD *** is always misremembering what I myself did. (If I don't write it down, it disappears into the void). I'm looking over Z-28 and it's showing something different than I remember. I could have sworn B/W went through two different connectors. One of them being a connector for Air Bag System...which is simply not true. According to the diagram it's W/L that splits off and goes through A-06 ending at EGI fuse. W/L also runs parallel to A-06 from B1-02 to EGI fuse.

What I did for splicing was cut the B/W wire back as close to the engine harness as possible and still leave myself enough room to solder extensions to reach both B1-08 as well as B1-02. I used some shrink tubing to cover.

I was originally going to replace all the B/W till I saw on the wiring diagram (Z-28) that B/W tees off to 1B on the ECU. Coming back from B1-08 it didn't take me too long to physically see where B/W splits off. Ideally I'd replace the whole harness, but that requires removing the dash. Alternative to splicing into the existing B/W I think I'd rather run new B/W wire and splice it in at the ECU.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Good thing I checked, it's a little different than how I remember.

1. B1-01 Main Relay W/R to X-02 EGI fuse (This was spliced into keeping the existing wiring.)
2. B1-01 ]Main Relay W/L to X-02 EGI fuse (This is a replacement with no attention to given to the Air Bag Connector)
3. I ended up simply splicing into B1-08 Check Connector B/W to B1-01 Main Relay. After looking at the diagrams I saw B/W also ties into two harnesses. One each, on driver side and passenger side. Rather than try to replace all that wiring I spliced into the B/W wiring going into the driver side harness.

That being said, it wouldn't be that big of a chore to run new wiring from B1-08 check connector to B1-02 as well as ECU 1B...if need be.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Recharged battery and swapping the CAS has the engine firing right up. Now to find the parasitic drain on the battery.

One question, Do the nuts that hold the Trailing Coil down act as grounding? When I checked my wiring yesterday they were only hand tight.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the bolts grounds the igniter aspect of the coil, thus no ground equates to a non working coil.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

no,no....the trailing coil, by the main relay. I pulled the trailing coil yesterday to inspect my wiring at the main relay and found that the 3 nuts that hold that down were only hand tight.

I just tested for parasitic draw and I show 5.34mA. I went through the full range. I show nothing when DMM is set to A, I show 5.34mA and then uA (can't find the actual symbol on forum text) shows 54.somethinguA.

Something isn't right cause my new battery was dead, dead, dead yesterday. I've got the neg on the battery disconnected so it's not going to drain anymore.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I edited that post to dial in to what you actually said. Again, try disconnecting the alternator to see if that stops the parasitic drain and then try pulling the other fuses if need be, especially the 'BTN fuse.'

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

From what I've researched I shouldn't worry about a drain less than 50mA. Is this incorrect, or is my 5mA enough to worry about?

I tried pulling fuses in the engine bay and saw no change there. I'll play with it more either later today or another day.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Well if your battery keeps draining then something needs to be addressed. No?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Correct, that's what I don't understand. Why my meter isn't showing what is happening.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Some circuits take a fair amount of time to stop pulling voltage even when they are not in use. Perhaps there is a circuit which eventually stops drawing voltage but untill then pulls a fair amount and drains the battery. You might want to turn on each circuit individually and then see if the amperage draw starts off rather high and stays there for longer than it should. You might be checking for a draw well after the draw has stopped is basically what I'm saying, although what I offerening up is just a theory.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I didn't have time to test anything, but I did drive the car around the block a few times. It seems to be idling and revving just fine. I didn't have much time but I did let the car idle with the efan switched on. I held rpms at 2k and according to the OEM volt meter it was charging just fine. It never started stuttering and wanting to stall out like it had been...but the little bit I drove it and ran the fan was hardly enough to say the initial problem is fixed.

I may end up taking it to a friends shop and let him sort it out. Between my re-education and wrok I simply don't have enough time to work on it. That and I know just enough about electronics to be dangerous. Granted it would be nice to teach myself to be self-sufficient but I really want this car up and running.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The easiest thing to do would be to unplug the connections to the alternator and let it sit for a time equal to where you found your battery drained and see if the battery did the same or not.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I disconnected all the alternator wiring and saw a drop of battery voltage from 12.83 to 12.77 in about 2 hours time.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the battery previously drained during a specific amount of time then you would test the alternator hypothesis over the same period of time.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I don't own an AGM battery charger (mine is probably older than I am) so I'm not too keen on killing the battery and having to take it back to the parts store to have it charged. I've always been suspicious of a draw on the battery and in with my previous battery have tested voltage periodically over a few hours, day, and couple days. The drop over 2 hours time is about consistent with what I've seen.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Took the car to run errands today. I got a better clue whats going on. I parked the car for my first stop. When I came back and started the engine the OEM volt meter didn't want to get above 12v. Before I was too far out of the parking lot the volt meter had climbed some and by the time I got to the street it was just below 14v.

At my second stop I got my volt meter out and checked the battery voltage, 12.8. I'm in the store for about a half hour and check it again before leaving and voltage had dropped to 12.66.

I took it straight home and checked for parasitic draw and saw the same results. 5.something mA and no change as I pull all but the main fuse (the one bolted down) in the engine fuse box.