do i need to drain the coolant b4 I take out the TB? I need to take my TPS out. It'd be very cool if I didnt have to drain the coolant. thanks

 

TPS? you can remove the TPS without removing the TB..

2 bolts and unplug from the TPS harness..

on s4s anyways.. im sure s5s arent any different

 

Not the whole thing. If you pull the hose on there it will drain out some coolant but you could plug it quickly I suppose

 

You should be able to take the tps off without taking the TB off, just remove the bracket it's attached it.

 

the TPS also has a screw under it. i hate it!

 

Why take it off. Just clean it in place.

 

woah wtf.. i only have one..

 

S4 only have one TPS.
I tried the contact cleaner, but it didnt work

 

whats the symptom? sticky tps?

 

bad idle, it goes up and down. when i disconnect the TPS the idle is perfect

 

Exactly like mine was last month.
I couldn't even get the 5v source at the orange wire.

I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground & that fixed it.
(The ECU goes nuts with weak grounds.)

 

ahh i see..

i would try getting a loaner TPS from someone else and swapping it in and seeing if it makes a difference..

the plunger slide motion likely isnt the problem, more likely the internals of the tps..

have you properly adjusted the TPS? (either by way of OHMS or volts?)

 

grounds are a big issue.. my car wouldnt even run properly at all.. i couldnt figure out for the life of me what the problem was.. then i added a ground (6 gauge) from the battery to the lead coil mount - HELLO!!!! unbelieveable difference.

i do have a few more points i would like to add grounds to though.. gonna get on that this week at some point..

 

Since we are on the TPS issue. When I adust my TPS using a checker light, the car will not stay running. It will start and then immediatlel stall. When I adust it by listening to the engine it will saty running and the car runs well but I want it adusted correctly. Does this mean a bad TPS?

Also, with that ground connection from the battery to the lead coil, can you elaborate for an idiot like me, from what terminal on the battery to what location on the lead coil. I know, I know, it is a stupid question but could you spell it out for me? Thanks.

Greg

 

The most problematic ground is the firewall to bell housing wire. If the starter ground ever gets even a little loose, the firewall ground tries to carry the start current & gets burned. In the real world it gets weaker a little at a time and is easy to overlook.
Any additional engine to body wires can only help.

 

ground = negative terminal

adding "grounds" to the chassis = adding wires coming from the neg. terminal

what are all the stock locations of grounds (chassis / drivetrain+engine)?

and while we are on the subject - can anyone provide a link or quickly explain a safe way to add a solid ECU ground?

 

Regrounding the ECU