Taking out the throttle body
05-06-03, 12:32 PM
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Taking out the throttle body
do i need to drain the coolant b4 I take out the TB? I need to take my TPS out. It'd be very cool if I didnt have to drain the coolant. thanks
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05-06-03, 01:09 PM
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Originally posted by koukifc3s
bad idle, it goes up and down. when i disconnect the TPS the idle is perfect
bad idle, it goes up and down. when i disconnect the TPS the idle is perfect
I couldn't even get the 5v source at the orange wire.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground & that fixed it.
(The ECU goes nuts with weak grounds.)
Last edited by SureShot; 05-06-03 at 01:11 PM.
05-06-03, 01:09 PM
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ahh i see..
i would try getting a loaner TPS from someone else and swapping it in and seeing if it makes a difference..
the plunger slide motion likely isnt the problem, more likely the internals of the tps..
have you properly adjusted the TPS? (either by way of OHMS or volts?)
i would try getting a loaner TPS from someone else and swapping it in and seeing if it makes a difference..
the plunger slide motion likely isnt the problem, more likely the internals of the tps..
have you properly adjusted the TPS? (either by way of OHMS or volts?)
05-06-03, 01:11 PM
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Originally posted by SureShot
Exactly like mine was last month.
I couldn't even get the 5v source at the orange wire.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground & that fixed it.
(The ECU goes nuts with weak grounds.)
Exactly like mine was last month.
I couldn't even get the 5v source at the orange wire.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground & that fixed it.
(The ECU goes nuts with weak grounds.)
i do have a few more points i would like to add grounds to though.. gonna get on that this week at some point..
05-06-03, 01:22 PM
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Since we are on the TPS issue. When I adust my TPS using a checker light, the car will not stay running. It will start and then immediatlel stall. When I adust it by listening to the engine it will saty running and the car runs well but I want it adusted correctly. Does this mean a bad TPS?
Also, with that ground connection from the battery to the lead coil, can you elaborate for an idiot like me, from what terminal on the battery to what location on the lead coil. I know, I know, it is a stupid question but could you spell it out for me? Thanks.
Greg
Also, with that ground connection from the battery to the lead coil, can you elaborate for an idiot like me, from what terminal on the battery to what location on the lead coil. I know, I know, it is a stupid question but could you spell it out for me? Thanks.
Greg
05-06-03, 01:49 PM
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The most problematic ground is the firewall to bell housing wire. If the starter ground ever gets even a little loose, the firewall ground tries to carry the start current & gets burned. In the real world it gets weaker a little at a time and is easy to overlook.
Any additional engine to body wires can only help.
Any additional engine to body wires can only help.
05-06-03, 10:51 PM
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ground = negative terminal
adding "grounds" to the chassis = adding wires coming from the neg. terminal
what are all the stock locations of grounds (chassis / drivetrain+engine)?
and while we are on the subject - can anyone provide a link or quickly explain a safe way to add a solid ECU ground?
adding "grounds" to the chassis = adding wires coming from the neg. terminal
what are all the stock locations of grounds (chassis / drivetrain+engine)?
and while we are on the subject - can anyone provide a link or quickly explain a safe way to add a solid ECU ground?
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