mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Sharingan, no I didn't test them but they came on the S5 motor and they look like S5 ones. I'm pretty sure the S4's are a different color.

I messed with the TPS today. Didn't have a multimeter but I set it to 1k yesterday and then tuned it out one turn and it ran way better. Almost perfect. I drove it around the neighborhood and it ran great. Then I opened it up through first and second and when I started driving normal again it was stumbling some again. By the time I got home it was running pretty good again.

Then it sat at my friends for a few hours and got cold. When I started it up to drive it back home it was stumbling terrible again, every time I shifted, let off the gas and got back on it, or even when I was holding a constant speed below like 2500rpm. So it still running a lot better when it's hot, granted I don't have any of the cold start stuff hooked up but from what I hear other people don't have any problems except having to help it idle until it warms up.

Thanks for the help guys I think It's getting closer. It's been like 6 months though and I'm so sick of it running like ****.

HAILERS2

Go to the FSM to check out the TPS as shown in the jpg attached.

Do that. then check A to C in the attached jpg. Its results should be just the opposite of when you checkd A to B.

The output of a properly set TPS results in the TPS outputting a signal of approx 1vdc (See your FSM, Fuel and Emisisions section, sub section CONTROL UNIT for the TPS input on pin 2G {approx 1vdc with hot engine}.

You can check the output of the TPS with a digital meter backprobing the green/red wire of the connector that connects to the TPS ...connector. The engine must be HOT to do this so the water thermowax/fast idle cam etc are in their proper positons. Or backprobe the ECU pin 2G at the ECU for 1vdc with a hot engine either idling or just key ON and fully hot. Frankly I idle my car fully hot doiing this (prior to owning a RTEK 2.1.).

Using a non turbo boost/pressure sensor with a turboII ECU makes for a crummy idle. Same can be said to some extent using a non turbo afm on a turbo engine/ECU.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the info Hailers. I'll check the TPS again next time I'm at my friends house who has it and make sure I do the way you said.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

So I set the TPS and it didn't really help. Ended up taking the TB apart and messing with a bunch of ****. I noticed that when I hit the gas it seems to clear up once the secondary throttle plates open up.( Think that's what they're called, the 2 on top) So I adjusted the stop so that they are open a little more at idle. I also adjusted the idle screw on the bottom since it was really far out.

I put it back together and the car ran almost perfect. I turned the TPS out 2 turns and it ran great, only problem was it idled high and was surging. I figured it was because the secondary throttle plates were open to much so I adjusted the screw so they were shut a little more. Then when I put it back together it ran like dog ****. Tried putting it back how I had it and still ran like ****.

I ended up getting it to idle pretty good but sometimes it's right at 800, sometimes it's like 1300? I got it running pretty good again, but the TPS is 3 turns out from stock, which would make it lean? It also only runs good when it's hot. I think part of my problem is I don't have a thermostat so it's never at the same temp so it only runs good at a certain temp.

So anyway, does anybody have any ideas on what I should try next? This is getting so old.