I have no spark at all, please help!
04-26-11, 07:06 PM
#1
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I have no spark at all, please help!
Hello everyone,
I'm a former 7 owner (convertible t2 swapped) and currently a 300zx tt owner.
Im pretty mechanically inclined. Ok, now to the problem:
After i sold my old convertible a few years ago, i picked up and fc with a bad transmission. The car had been sitting for 3-4 years. The guy couldn't get the motor started. I bought it, got the motor started, and sold it with a bad tranny. This kid bought it from me, and had it parked in his yard for another 2 years.
A few weeks ago, I picked up that same exact 88 gxl. The guy i bought it back from was dumb as a rock and knew nothing about cars. He had his friend put a new clutch kit and transmission on the car for him because the old transmission was cracked.
Now, the car won't start at all since the new tranny and everything was put on. I put a new starter and a t2 alternator on it, as these parts were missing when i bought it back. Then when i finally got it to crank over, i realized the fuel pump was shot. I put a new pump in, but the car wont start.
Im missing the whole exhaust on the car, only has header on it with the o2 sensor wire cut in half, but i dont think that would cause it not to start.
It has NO SPARK at all, but its getting fuel now. Im getting 12.4 volts to the coil packs or whatever they are called, but they are not putting out any spark.
What would cause an fc to not have spark. What things do i need to check? I need as many suggestions and tips and testing procedure instructions as i can get. Its been a few years since i had an fc but im eager to get this thing started!
Thanks everyone!
I'm a former 7 owner (convertible t2 swapped) and currently a 300zx tt owner.
Im pretty mechanically inclined. Ok, now to the problem:
After i sold my old convertible a few years ago, i picked up and fc with a bad transmission. The car had been sitting for 3-4 years. The guy couldn't get the motor started. I bought it, got the motor started, and sold it with a bad tranny. This kid bought it from me, and had it parked in his yard for another 2 years.
A few weeks ago, I picked up that same exact 88 gxl. The guy i bought it back from was dumb as a rock and knew nothing about cars. He had his friend put a new clutch kit and transmission on the car for him because the old transmission was cracked.
Now, the car won't start at all since the new tranny and everything was put on. I put a new starter and a t2 alternator on it, as these parts were missing when i bought it back. Then when i finally got it to crank over, i realized the fuel pump was shot. I put a new pump in, but the car wont start.
Im missing the whole exhaust on the car, only has header on it with the o2 sensor wire cut in half, but i dont think that would cause it not to start.
It has NO SPARK at all, but its getting fuel now. Im getting 12.4 volts to the coil packs or whatever they are called, but they are not putting out any spark.
What would cause an fc to not have spark. What things do i need to check? I need as many suggestions and tips and testing procedure instructions as i can get. Its been a few years since i had an fc but im eager to get this thing started!
Thanks everyone!
04-26-11, 07:37 PM
#2
Does the tach needle blip when the key is turned to on?
The coils need to be bolted to the fender to receive a proper ground or they won't fire.
The EGI COMP fuse needs to be good as it powers the ECU.
The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil should read from 0 volts to 5 volts as the engine is manually rotated w/key to on. This is the trigger signal to the coil from the ECU to fire.
The coils need to be bolted to the fender to receive a proper ground or they won't fire.
The EGI COMP fuse needs to be good as it powers the ECU.
The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil should read from 0 volts to 5 volts as the engine is manually rotated w/key to on. This is the trigger signal to the coil from the ECU to fire.
04-26-11, 07:41 PM
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i forgot to mention, the rpm gauge does not budge when you crank the motor, but neither does any of the other gauges so im thinking the whole gauge cluster is screwed up.
The only weird thing that happens is that when i put the btm or btu (cant remember what its called, but its the 2nd to last one from top to bottom of the fuse box under the hood) fuse in, even with the key completely out of the car, all the instrument warning lights light up, as if the key is in the ignition and turned forward.
If i pull this fuse out, the lights act normal (light up with key forward and turn back off when you turn the key out or take them out).
The only weird thing that happens is that when i put the btm or btu (cant remember what its called, but its the 2nd to last one from top to bottom of the fuse box under the hood) fuse in, even with the key completely out of the car, all the instrument warning lights light up, as if the key is in the ignition and turned forward.
If i pull this fuse out, the lights act normal (light up with key forward and turn back off when you turn the key out or take them out).
04-26-11, 07:56 PM
#4
i forgot to mention, the rpm gauge does not budge when you crank the motor, but neither does any of the other gauges so im thinking the whole gauge cluster is screwed up.
The only weird thing that happens is that when i put the btm or btu (cant remember what its called, but its the 2nd to last one from top to bottom of the fuse box under the hood) fuse in, even with the key completely out of the car, all the instrument warning lights light up, as if the key is in the ignition and turned forward.
If i pull this fuse out, the lights act normal (light up with key forward and turn back off when you turn the key out or take them out).
The only weird thing that happens is that when i put the btm or btu (cant remember what its called, but its the 2nd to last one from top to bottom of the fuse box under the hood) fuse in, even with the key completely out of the car, all the instrument warning lights light up, as if the key is in the ignition and turned forward.
If i pull this fuse out, the lights act normal (light up with key forward and turn back off when you turn the key out or take them out).
04-26-11, 08:43 PM
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And regarding the ignitor not being bolted down, the trailing one was not but I bolted it down and still no spark. The trailing one has been tightly secured the whole time.
04-26-11, 10:49 PM
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Hello everyone,
I'm a former 7 owner (convertible t2 swapped) and currently a 300zx tt owner.
Im pretty mechanically inclined. Ok, now to the problem:
After i sold my old convertible a few years ago, i picked up and fc with a bad transmission. The car had been sitting for 3-4 years. The guy couldn't get the motor started. I bought it, got the motor started, and sold it with a bad tranny. This kid bought it from me, and had it parked in his yard for another 2 years.
A few weeks ago, I picked up that same exact 88 gxl. The guy i bought it back from was dumb as a rock and knew nothing about cars. He had his friend put a new clutch kit and transmission on the car for him because the old transmission was cracked.
Now, the car won't start at all since the new tranny and everything was put on. I put a new starter and a t2 alternator on it, as these parts were missing when i bought it back. Then when i finally got it to crank over, i realized the fuel pump was shot. I put a new pump in, but the car wont start.
Im missing the whole exhaust on the car, only has header on it with the o2 sensor wire cut in half, but i dont think that would cause it not to start.
It has NO SPARK at all, but its getting fuel now. Im getting 12.4 volts to the coil packs or whatever they are called, but they are not putting out any spark.
What would cause an fc to not have spark. What things do i need to check? I need as many suggestions and tips and testing procedure instructions as i can get. Its been a few years since i had an fc but im eager to get this thing started!
Thanks everyone!
I'm a former 7 owner (convertible t2 swapped) and currently a 300zx tt owner.
Im pretty mechanically inclined. Ok, now to the problem:
After i sold my old convertible a few years ago, i picked up and fc with a bad transmission. The car had been sitting for 3-4 years. The guy couldn't get the motor started. I bought it, got the motor started, and sold it with a bad tranny. This kid bought it from me, and had it parked in his yard for another 2 years.
A few weeks ago, I picked up that same exact 88 gxl. The guy i bought it back from was dumb as a rock and knew nothing about cars. He had his friend put a new clutch kit and transmission on the car for him because the old transmission was cracked.
Now, the car won't start at all since the new tranny and everything was put on. I put a new starter and a t2 alternator on it, as these parts were missing when i bought it back. Then when i finally got it to crank over, i realized the fuel pump was shot. I put a new pump in, but the car wont start.
Im missing the whole exhaust on the car, only has header on it with the o2 sensor wire cut in half, but i dont think that would cause it not to start.
It has NO SPARK at all, but its getting fuel now. Im getting 12.4 volts to the coil packs or whatever they are called, but they are not putting out any spark.
What would cause an fc to not have spark. What things do i need to check? I need as many suggestions and tips and testing procedure instructions as i can get. Its been a few years since i had an fc but im eager to get this thing started!
Thanks everyone!
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04-27-11, 05:55 AM
#8
Rotary Freak
BTN fuse...................the BTN fuse puts battery power on a row of fuses in the interior.
That row of fuses powers items that never need the key to be in the car. An example would be the Stop lights, the interior room lights, the Hazard lights and the lights around the instrument cluste that light up when the headlight **** is turned to the first position.
In other words that row of fuses powers non essential items............NORMALLY.
For some unknown reason that row of fuses on the interior Battery buss is now also tied to another row of fuses in the interior and THAT row of fuses should only be powered if the key is in the ignition and key turned to ON or better.
Now as Satch made mention of..........................the Warning lights are powered by the METER fuse. So what that tells me is, is that the row of fuses in the interior that include the following fuses.........ENGINE, METER, TURN, PWR WINDOW, POWER STR ..........is being backfed by the row of fuse just above called the batt buss row of fuses (in turn fed by the BTN in the engine bay).
Your in a heap of trouble.
In my opinion somewhere and god only knows where, there is a elect plug connected up wrong on the car. Trying to say its' connected to a mating plug that it should not be connected to. An example would be a elect plug that has a wire in it that is fed by the Batt buss and that wire when connected to the elect plug it should not be connected to.......gets wrongly mated to a wire that should only be fed by the row of fuses I just listed above.
Try disconnecting the two electrical plugs from the back of the combination meter (instrument gauge) and see if the warning lights still come on when the BTN is put in place...or not.
That row of fuses powers items that never need the key to be in the car. An example would be the Stop lights, the interior room lights, the Hazard lights and the lights around the instrument cluste that light up when the headlight **** is turned to the first position.
In other words that row of fuses powers non essential items............NORMALLY.
For some unknown reason that row of fuses on the interior Battery buss is now also tied to another row of fuses in the interior and THAT row of fuses should only be powered if the key is in the ignition and key turned to ON or better.
Now as Satch made mention of..........................the Warning lights are powered by the METER fuse. So what that tells me is, is that the row of fuses in the interior that include the following fuses.........ENGINE, METER, TURN, PWR WINDOW, POWER STR ..........is being backfed by the row of fuse just above called the batt buss row of fuses (in turn fed by the BTN in the engine bay).
Your in a heap of trouble.
In my opinion somewhere and god only knows where, there is a elect plug connected up wrong on the car. Trying to say its' connected to a mating plug that it should not be connected to. An example would be a elect plug that has a wire in it that is fed by the Batt buss and that wire when connected to the elect plug it should not be connected to.......gets wrongly mated to a wire that should only be fed by the row of fuses I just listed above.
Try disconnecting the two electrical plugs from the back of the combination meter (instrument gauge) and see if the warning lights still come on when the BTN is put in place...or not.
04-27-11, 06:20 AM
#9
Rotary Freak
So do like Satch mentioned and remove the small plug from the alt and see if the problem with the warningl lights goes away or not. Not sure that's going to solve the problem 'cause yours seems to be a backfeeding problem I described earlier.
Do us a favor. Pull the BTN out. Then turn the key to ON and see if your fuel pump works and if you still have power at the coils or not. That would be a big clue.
Your main relay is pulling in which is good. That's shown by you having power on the coils. Also means one of the EGI fuses has to be good for that to happen.
The coils work by them having batt power (you go that) and they are triggered by the ECU outputting a 0-5 vdc signal to the ignitor assys that are a part of the coil assy's. The ECU does this by looking at the output of the CAS to the ECU. So the CAS obviously needs to be connected up (four wire plug at the CAS).
Now if the car was a series FOUR car, the four wires leaving the CAS have one more plug to go thru before arriving at the ECU. That plug is somewhere down under the brake booster area.......somewhere or other.
If NOT a series four but series FIVE.........there is no other connector b/ the CAS and the ECU. So no need to look for another connector on the series five.
That OTHER plug has four sockets/wires and are colored.....red, green, blue and white.
Do you have a spare CAS? If you connect that to the harness and turn the key to ON...........then spin the bottom gear of the spare CAS with your fingers the spark should happen and the fuel injectors should be heard to clickity click.
Do us a favor. Pull the BTN out. Then turn the key to ON and see if your fuel pump works and if you still have power at the coils or not. That would be a big clue.
Your main relay is pulling in which is good. That's shown by you having power on the coils. Also means one of the EGI fuses has to be good for that to happen.
The coils work by them having batt power (you go that) and they are triggered by the ECU outputting a 0-5 vdc signal to the ignitor assys that are a part of the coil assy's. The ECU does this by looking at the output of the CAS to the ECU. So the CAS obviously needs to be connected up (four wire plug at the CAS).
Now if the car was a series FOUR car, the four wires leaving the CAS have one more plug to go thru before arriving at the ECU. That plug is somewhere down under the brake booster area.......somewhere or other.
If NOT a series four but series FIVE.........there is no other connector b/ the CAS and the ECU. So no need to look for another connector on the series five.
That OTHER plug has four sockets/wires and are colored.....red, green, blue and white.
Do you have a spare CAS? If you connect that to the harness and turn the key to ON...........then spin the bottom gear of the spare CAS with your fingers the spark should happen and the fuel injectors should be heard to clickity click.
04-27-11, 08:23 PM
#11
Rotary Freak
I figure the ENGINE fuse is good because..................he has power at the coils which means the MAIN RELAY has pulled in .......which is powered by the ENGINE fuse.
First thing I'd do is what Satch mentioned. Pull the small connector off the alt to see if the warning lights will now stay out when the BTN is installed. If so.........then your alt wiring or alt is backfeeding the row of fuses in the interior with the key out.
Only solves the warninglights on all the time problem.
First thing I'd do is what Satch mentioned. Pull the small connector off the alt to see if the warning lights will now stay out when the BTN is installed. If so.........then your alt wiring or alt is backfeeding the row of fuses in the interior with the key out.
Only solves the warninglights on all the time problem.
04-28-11, 10:10 AM
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I figure the ENGINE fuse is good because..................he has power at the coils which means the MAIN RELAY has pulled in .......which is powered by the ENGINE fuse.
First thing I'd do is what Satch mentioned. Pull the small connector off the alt to see if the warning lights will now stay out when the BTN is installed. If so.........then your alt wiring or alt is backfeeding the row of fuses in the interior with the key out.
Only solves the warninglights on all the time problem.
First thing I'd do is what Satch mentioned. Pull the small connector off the alt to see if the warning lights will now stay out when the BTN is installed. If so.........then your alt wiring or alt is backfeeding the row of fuses in the interior with the key out.
Only solves the warninglights on all the time problem.
The main relay or fuse is good, i unbolted it from the fuse box and tested the fuse and the connector that makes contact with it. With the fuse/relay in, it completed the circuit.
Im going to guess I have the alternator wires on wrong. I will hopefully be able to go out today and check, and I will post some results. While im out there, im going to check the ecu for power. I don't have an extra CAS so I don't know how Im going to check that yet..
04-28-11, 12:34 PM
#14
Rotary Freak
The only way a series four AFM can stop a car from starting is if the vref voltage going to it is shorted out internally. IF the plug is removed from the afm the engine will still start. It just won't keep running 'cause the fuel pump circuit switch inside the afm won't *make* to keep the pump running.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
04-28-11, 01:31 PM
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The only way a series four AFM can stop a car from starting is if the vref voltage going to it is shorted out internally. IF the plug is removed from the afm the engine will still start. It just won't keep running 'cause the fuel pump circuit switch inside the afm won't *make* to keep the pump running.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
05-02-11, 02:56 PM
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The only way a series four AFM can stop a car from starting is if the vref voltage going to it is shorted out internally. IF the plug is removed from the afm the engine will still start. It just won't keep running 'cause the fuel pump circuit switch inside the afm won't *make* to keep the pump running.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
Saying if one removed the elect plug from the afm then the possibility of the ref voltage being shorted to gnd is removed from THAT sensor and the car can still start....won't stay running though, but will/should start IF that was the problem.
I would ignore what I said about the CAS since you don't have a spare one. Don't remove the one in the engine 'cause that will just compound your problems.
I switched the wires around and now the warning lights don't come on with the key out of the car. However, they don't all light up with the key on either. I know right behind the alternator, there is a single green wire with a connector at the end which is not hooked up to anything. The new alternator and the old one don't have a spot for this wire (which looks like it would be the only thing the wire would reach) so I don't know if this has to do with any of my issues.
One weird thing i noticed is that when i turn my key forward, i cant hear the fuel pump humming or kicking on, but if you crank the car, it shoots fuel out of the fuel line in a pulsating motion, kinda like shooting fuel out every time the engine makes a complete turn. But if you turn the key on without cranking, the fuel pump makes no noise at all.
I still don't have any spark. Im going right now with a voltmeter to check and see if the CAS has any electricity going to it and Im going to check the 2nd connector for the CAS for power. I'll be back in a couple of hours with more results.
05-02-11, 04:45 PM
#17
Rotary Freak
CAS make voltage and send it to the ECU.
ON a stk series four car the fuel pump does not run just by putting the key to ON
Fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to START...........................runs if the engine actually starts up..........runs if the key is ON and the fuel pump check conenctor is jumpered
Seems Satch was right that the plugs on the ALT were what was backfeeding power to the interior fuse box and then on to the ENGINE and Meter fuses causing those other lights to stay lit up.
A single green/black wire around the alt area is for the aux fan thermostat switch on cars that have an aux electric fan. NO green wire has anything to do with the alt or starting.
On a stk series four the white/black wire is what causes the warning lights to come on IF it sees a ground on it. Key to ON and putting a gnd to the white/black will cause the warning lights to all come on. Not worth worrying about right now.
If I owned that car I'd go to the ECUs small plug and make sure there is batt voltage on the two wires on the far left of that small plug. Should be there.
Then I'd go to the large plug and get out the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT and compare my readings of the CAS wires in that plug with the readings in the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT.
I'd backprobe the middle plug where the brown/white wire is in socket 2a and make sure there is approx 5vdc there. I'd probably do that right after I made sure there is power on those two wires on the far left of that small plug.
Or to simplify things I'd just pull the plug off the boost sensor and see if there is 5vdc on the brown/white wire in that plug with key ON. If it's there you know theres' power going to the ECU.
ON a stk series four car the fuel pump does not run just by putting the key to ON
Fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to START...........................runs if the engine actually starts up..........runs if the key is ON and the fuel pump check conenctor is jumpered
Seems Satch was right that the plugs on the ALT were what was backfeeding power to the interior fuse box and then on to the ENGINE and Meter fuses causing those other lights to stay lit up.
A single green/black wire around the alt area is for the aux fan thermostat switch on cars that have an aux electric fan. NO green wire has anything to do with the alt or starting.
On a stk series four the white/black wire is what causes the warning lights to come on IF it sees a ground on it. Key to ON and putting a gnd to the white/black will cause the warning lights to all come on. Not worth worrying about right now.
If I owned that car I'd go to the ECUs small plug and make sure there is batt voltage on the two wires on the far left of that small plug. Should be there.
Then I'd go to the large plug and get out the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT and compare my readings of the CAS wires in that plug with the readings in the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT.
I'd backprobe the middle plug where the brown/white wire is in socket 2a and make sure there is approx 5vdc there. I'd probably do that right after I made sure there is power on those two wires on the far left of that small plug.
Or to simplify things I'd just pull the plug off the boost sensor and see if there is 5vdc on the brown/white wire in that plug with key ON. If it's there you know theres' power going to the ECU.
05-02-11, 07:21 PM
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CAS make voltage and send it to the ECU.
ON a stk series four car the fuel pump does not run just by putting the key to ON
Fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to START...........................runs if the engine actually starts up..........runs if the key is ON and the fuel pump check conenctor is jumpered
Seems Satch was right that the plugs on the ALT were what was backfeeding power to the interior fuse box and then on to the ENGINE and Meter fuses causing those other lights to stay lit up.
A single green/black wire around the alt area is for the aux fan thermostat switch on cars that have an aux electric fan. NO green wire has anything to do with the alt or starting.
On a stk series four the white/black wire is what causes the warning lights to come on IF it sees a ground on it. Key to ON and putting a gnd to the white/black will cause the warning lights to all come on. Not worth worrying about right now.
If I owned that car I'd go to the ECUs small plug and make sure there is batt voltage on the two wires on the far left of that small plug. Should be there.
Then I'd go to the large plug and get out the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT and compare my readings of the CAS wires in that plug with the readings in the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT.
I'd backprobe the middle plug where the brown/white wire is in socket 2a and make sure there is approx 5vdc there. I'd probably do that right after I made sure there is power on those two wires on the far left of that small plug.
Or to simplify things I'd just pull the plug off the boost sensor and see if there is 5vdc on the brown/white wire in that plug with key ON. If it's there you know theres' power going to the ECU.
ON a stk series four car the fuel pump does not run just by putting the key to ON
Fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to START...........................runs if the engine actually starts up..........runs if the key is ON and the fuel pump check conenctor is jumpered
Seems Satch was right that the plugs on the ALT were what was backfeeding power to the interior fuse box and then on to the ENGINE and Meter fuses causing those other lights to stay lit up.
A single green/black wire around the alt area is for the aux fan thermostat switch on cars that have an aux electric fan. NO green wire has anything to do with the alt or starting.
On a stk series four the white/black wire is what causes the warning lights to come on IF it sees a ground on it. Key to ON and putting a gnd to the white/black will cause the warning lights to all come on. Not worth worrying about right now.
If I owned that car I'd go to the ECUs small plug and make sure there is batt voltage on the two wires on the far left of that small plug. Should be there.
Then I'd go to the large plug and get out the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT and compare my readings of the CAS wires in that plug with the readings in the FSM seciton called CONTROL UNIT.
I'd backprobe the middle plug where the brown/white wire is in socket 2a and make sure there is approx 5vdc there. I'd probably do that right after I made sure there is power on those two wires on the far left of that small plug.
Or to simplify things I'd just pull the plug off the boost sensor and see if there is 5vdc on the brown/white wire in that plug with key ON. If it's there you know theres' power going to the ECU.
05-02-11, 07:27 PM
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Does the tach needle blip when the key is turned to on?
The coils need to be bolted to the fender to receive a proper ground or they won't fire.
The EGI COMP fuse needs to be good as it powers the ECU.
The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil should read from 0 volts to 5 volts as the engine is manually rotated w/key to on. This is the trigger signal to the coil from the ECU to fire.
The coils need to be bolted to the fender to receive a proper ground or they won't fire.
The EGI COMP fuse needs to be good as it powers the ECU.
The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil should read from 0 volts to 5 volts as the engine is manually rotated w/key to on. This is the trigger signal to the coil from the ECU to fire.
05-02-11, 08:29 PM
#20
Ok where is the boost sensor? I checked the green plug on the driver side which has 4 wires going to it and only 1 of the wires had 12 volts going to it. Then right next to that connector is a smaller green plug with 2 wires going in to it. One of those wires were putting out 5.1 volts.
05-02-11, 08:57 PM
#21
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I had a similar problem when i bought my 7 that had been sitting for over a year... Car would crank, no start. Put a new fuel pump in it, had power to everything but still no start. I jumped the main relay because mine was frozen and i then got spark and fuel, still no start due to no compression. Towed it around to free the apex seals and i've been driving it daily for almost a year now. I would check all fuses, then jump the main relay because if i'm not mistaken i THINK there is two relays inside that send power out to several places. When you jump it you will hear several things clicking on. From what i have been reading i guess you aren't supposed to have power to the coils when that relay is bad but somehow mine did?? Hope one of us can help you out, little things like this are frustrating. If it all comes down to it and everything is good, i have a set of coils for an 88 GXL both leading and trailing if you want/need them. Good luck
05-02-11, 11:27 PM
#22
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As mentioned...........the boost/pressure sensor is shown in the attached jpg. has a vacuum hose on the bottom along with a elect plug.
The green plug you found has no reason to be looked at right now.
Green/Yellow plug on the Lead coil assy should show 0 to 5vdc as you manually turn the engine using your hands to pull on the belt to do so. Reading negative? Got the meter leads crossed up. Neg lead on a good source of ground like the batt neg terminal and the positive meter lead in the socket where the green/Yellow wire is. Key to ON.
The green plug you found has no reason to be looked at right now.
Green/Yellow plug on the Lead coil assy should show 0 to 5vdc as you manually turn the engine using your hands to pull on the belt to do so. Reading negative? Got the meter leads crossed up. Neg lead on a good source of ground like the batt neg terminal and the positive meter lead in the socket where the green/Yellow wire is. Key to ON.
05-03-11, 10:49 AM
#23
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The "ECU" is located under the passenger floorboard while the "CPU" is by the driver kick panel. You are interested in the ECU. The Boost Sensor and its bracket is bolted to the passenger fenderwell and has a vacuum hose running to it and the sensor has one electrical plug underneath the sensor.
I will go and check the boost sensor plug and turn the motor by hand today.
Thanks for being patient
05-03-11, 10:52 AM
#24
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As mentioned...........the boost/pressure sensor is shown in the attached jpg. has a vacuum hose on the bottom along with a elect plug.
The green plug you found has no reason to be looked at right now.
Green/Yellow plug on the Lead coil assy should show 0 to 5vdc as you manually turn the engine using your hands to pull on the belt to do so. Reading negative? Got the meter leads crossed up. Neg lead on a good source of ground like the batt neg terminal and the positive meter lead in the socket where the green/Yellow wire is. Key to ON.
The green plug you found has no reason to be looked at right now.
Green/Yellow plug on the Lead coil assy should show 0 to 5vdc as you manually turn the engine using your hands to pull on the belt to do so. Reading negative? Got the meter leads crossed up. Neg lead on a good source of ground like the batt neg terminal and the positive meter lead in the socket where the green/Yellow wire is. Key to ON.
05-03-11, 10:55 AM
#25
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I had a similar problem when i bought my 7 that had been sitting for over a year... Car would crank, no start. Put a new fuel pump in it, had power to everything but still no start. I jumped the main relay because mine was frozen and i then got spark and fuel, still no start due to no compression. Towed it around to free the apex seals and i've been driving it daily for almost a year now. I would check all fuses, then jump the main relay because if i'm not mistaken i THINK there is two relays inside that send power out to several places. When you jump it you will hear several things clicking on. From what i have been reading i guess you aren't supposed to have power to the coils when that relay is bad but somehow mine did?? Hope one of us can help you out, little things like this are frustrating. If it all comes down to it and everything is good, i have a set of coils for an 88 GXL both leading and trailing if you want/need them. Good luck