jdmrbust

I am in the middle of swapping an s4 t2 motor and tranny into my 87 base. When I took the cut harness off the motor i paid attention to how it was laid out- as much as I could, it was cut up. So yesterday i got up early to start on it and got the new harness ( bought off ebay) and started laying it in, I messed with it untill 4 in the afternoon- all pissed off. So I laid it in there and made it work - mostly, and far from factory. Here are my problems on the harness the extension that should go up to the wiper motor isn't there, and I'm not retarded, it's not there nor is the solenoid resistor plug and anothere one or two, compared to my N/A harness, but I dont know it the t2 or supposed to have them any way. And where the hell is the plug for the knock control box ? And I have a plastic grey box that say motor failure on it is that the knock control box? Thanks for any help- Dustin

iceblue

Huu. The wiper motor is not part of that harness you have to run new wires for it and cut the clip off your old harness and wire it up. The knock sensor is in the front rotor and the oil filler neck. Some simple searching on research that you should of done on here will have told you that and many of my posts have stated this about swapping.

That gray box that says motor failure is for automatic cars. There should be a gray box that says denso on it that’s the knock sensor box.

The resistor pack you mean for the injectors?

HAILERS

iF your had a USA turbo harness, it would have the wiper motor plug on it. You must have a JAP harness. Make sense? Yes.

In my opinion it's easier to use the non turbo series four harness that you originally had.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Yeah sounds like a Jspec harness.

I got screwed by one of those as well.

You can either take your old harness and remove those plug s and wires and splice them into this harness or you can buy a USDM TII harness.

Solenoid resistor plug? What's that? It's been a while since I went by FSM terms.
That the plug on the drivers fender which has the sealant rubber on it or are you speaking about the injector resistors for low impledance?

There shoudl be like 3-5 wires you cut on the TII harness to get your guages working.
Then you have ti run 2 wires for the alternator since TII's have the alt plug in the driver harness and not the EFI/Pass harness.

Oh and the knock box.
It's like 6 inches from the in car atmospheric sensor(looks like the fender boost sensor) The box itsef says like aboive DENSO. It'll be the size of a Klondike bar if I remember right.

I took mine and extended the knock box plug wires so I coudl relocate it right next to the ECU instead of in that little fender cavity.

jdmrbust

ICEBLUE- not that I dont appreciate your help but i have done more than simple reserch- and i am talking about the knock control box- not the knock sensor.

The solenoid resistor is to lower voltage to the fuel pump at cruising- not that i need it I was just stating it wasnt there. Thanks

HAILERS

FYI....A picture of both the Motor Failure box and the KNOCK BOX for a series four can be found on this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=knock+box One picture is near the top and the other near the bottom.

FYI...A SOLENOID RESISTOR, is the name given to a package of four, SIX (6) ohm resistors that go in series to each injector. It is found only on 1987 1/2 and earlier cars. It is located a foot below and to the right of the afm/airfilter assy.

It's not to be confused with the Fuel Pump Relay/Resistor package found on series four turboii cars, located just in FRONT of the afm/airfilter assy. It is the one that cuts fuel pump voltage down to approx 9vdc when your not boosting.

HAILERS

I posted a jpg of the two items at this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ENOID+RESISTOR

BigMike85

the knock control box on mine plugs in near the ecu, should be a white 6 or 8 pin connector.... might be able to get pics if you need.

HAILERS

Look like this? https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&stc=1&thumb=1

jdmrbust

thanks - I had found the thread(from HAILER) on the knock box a few weeks ago but couldnt find it a gain. Thanks for clearing up the resistor issue too. I will just get a US spec harness and does the fuel pump resistor make a worth while difference?

jdmrbust

I'll figure out the harness routing but it would help if any one has pictures- since i didnt take any- idiot

BigMike85

yep



mine doesnt have mounting holes though

HAILERS

I ran close to a year withiout one. I put a turboii engine in a non turbo 1987. Later I bought several of those fuel pump resistor/relays off EBAY and installed one in the rear jack area. It's supposed to save wear on the pump and keep the fuel pressure down when not boosting. When in boost, a relay drops out and provides a path around the resistor so that the voltage will go up and the fuel pump pressure will go up.

For a stock turboii, do this. Monitor the fuel pump voltage while driving. Go into boost with the heater, lights, radio, A/C, whatever turned on while in boost. See how low the voltage at the pump gets. If it gets below 12vdc then I'd install the fuel pump resistor/relay and do some sort of fuel pump rewire. For right now just keep on keepin on getting the car to run.

P.S. I also ran without the KNOCK BOX for over a year til I got off my duff and ran a couple of wires to it. I'm still a big doubter about the KNOCK BOX.

RETed

The knock control system is a waste of time.
It gets ignored after 4kRPM.


-Ted

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I have ran over a year with out a S4 TII fuel pump relay. I prefer to have a constant rate of power to the walbro any way. Most guys which mod a TII will remove it and run fresh wires for better voltage.

jdmrbust

yes I have rewired the fuel pump and got a warlbro 255 fuel pump