MazdaRX7.ws

Ok I just bought the car a few days ago. 1990 Mazda RX7 GTU was told t2 swap...

Just got back from KD Rotary. Dave told me that it was NOT a t2 engine. It is a 6 port with a added turbo. He said to me that if it was his car he would keep it and pull the 6 port out pull the turbo off because it is a great engine very strong sell it and buy a JDM s5 t2 engine with drive train ecu and harness and drop it in. I would still need a differential because the car now has a n/a diff.

He said for the car to run right with the 6 port the way it is currently set up I would need a stand alone, to upgrade the tranny to t2, differential, injectors. He said the engine is very strong like perfect and that the turbo is great. He said the turbo was either rebuilt or modded as was the engine.

Please all help me out and give me insight and input. I am not sure what I should do. I need to know what would be more cost effective and also know which I can make faster, and which would be more reliable in the long run...

Any advice?? Or input???

dawicka2

Is it using the na throttlebody, manifolds and injectors or the t2? Because you thought it was a t2 swap,I am assuming it has an adaptor plate between the na uim and s5 turbo uim to t2 tbi and injectors.

It depends on what your plans are regarding horsepower. If it was me i would keep the transmission driveshaft axles and rear the way it is, make sure it has t2 injectors and ecu and run it safely, (or slightly bigger injectors with at least an fpr). You should have enough fuel (walbro255 or t2fc fd etc) through 550cc injectors to safely run 6 pounds of boost on that high compression na engine.

I beat the **** out of my na drivetrain in my t2 swap and it enjoys it. The na drivetrain has actually sat me down and explained that it thoroughly enjoys the abuse. I cant argue with that.

Need more info regarding your set up.

John ny

MazdaRX7.ws

well I am not 100% sure what ecu is in the car. But I do know it has t2 injectors. I am not sure about all that other stuff... I have a bad exhaust leak either from where the turbo meets the manifold or down pipe. Dave thought it might even be a s4 not s5. I am not sure why he said that some thing with the fuel cut d and re wiring of the mass air flow thing by the air filter. It does have a n/a tranny and I have three ecu's total...I am not sure about the harness... Do you need any more info. I would like to hit around 280-300 hp.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I'd say keep it! It's different, and you already have it.

Besides, how many people are selling S5 TII engines?

And who wants to buy an NA engine these days?

Buying and selling all those parts can be time consuming.

dawicka2

280hp (@ the eshaft)you should be fine on an na drivetrain. Take a picture of your engine and post it. S4 block w/no oil metering using an s5 harness is not cool if thats the case. You WILL need an s5 turbo ecu and t2 boost sensor at the very least so the car "knows" its under boost. If you have an s4 block not a huge deal..just gotta run premix if front cover wasnt swapped. Post pictures. I would also politely(at first) call the guy out that you bought it from. Maybe that shady **** can give you more insight as to the extent of mods in the engine bay. If engine is healthy like you said......thats a great sign......do not drive it though, until you know what you have.

Where in NY? I wouldnt quite call this a state of euphoria....

John ny

MazdaRX7.ws

dave did mention that the front cap was changed. I am not familiar with all this man. If you can help me to understand and teach me that would be great. This is my 4th rx7 my 1st 3 were t2's. Now this situation I am in with this car is foreign to me. I will see if I can find an engine shot give me a few. BTW where in NY r u? Staten Isl here.

MazdaRX7.ws

Here are a few pics including thee engine bay..

MazdaRX7.ws

I haver the n/a engine block sold to my friend for $500.00 and the n/a tranny sold to dave at kd. I wouldnt sell the car. I just have to make a decision at this point about going to a jdm s5 t2 or stay with the 6 port n/a set i currently have with turbo. I do have the engine and tranny soild if I decide to go t2. Just so you all know. I am not sure if $500 for the engine is too much or too littlle.

dawicka2

In orange county......hour out of manhattan. No problem at all, I will answer any question i can. People will start chiming in soon too. We were all new once. Front cover swap is a good sign. So next thing is determining what you have. Can you post a picture of your engine bay? If you have the t2 upper intake manifold and throttle body, you probably have the turbo injectors too. I would go to advance, napa or autozone and buy a haynes manual. That will run you through exposing the ecu, so you can determine weather or not its turbo or na. In the pic is pressure sensor for you to post the #on it. Also a picture of a t2 uim...does yours look like this?




john ny

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

You should rebuild the 6-port boost. Just personal opinion.

dawicka2

Ok....so you have the t2 goodies. Now we should find out what ecu is in this thing.

Nah..dont sell it if its healthy. If you have the fuel as is i would drive it like that for a little while, then upgrade to run more booost when i know everything is straight.

Getting 500 for a healthy na engine, then taking a gamble on a 1300 dollar jspec makes no sense to me. Unfortunately na blocks dont go for much. Because you are planning on upgrading, i would buy the t2 drivetrain if its a good deal and sit on it. How many pounds are you running right now? Does it have a wideband?

john ny

dawicka2

Just read other closed thread.....

get s5 turbo injectors.

john ny

MazdaRX7.ws

Well I am not 100% sure what ecu is in the car. I do have three of them. The two that are not installed one is a na ecu for the na engine in the car, then I have a ecu for a 13bt but I do not know if it is for a s4 or s5. I have no idea what wiring harness is in the car.

The injectors are t2 injectors. They have a red top. Dave at kd said that they are t2. I personally couldnt tell if they were t2 or na.

If I keep the car the way it is. I would really like to change the ecu and put a stand alone. I do have a walbro fuel pump and a fmic. If I get a stand alone then I can at least tune the car for 12 pounds of boost. That would be my goal. The engine is strong and runs ghreat dave said it can handle up to 15 pounds and about 280 hp to the wheels no more or I would kill the tranny. He also told me the n/a clutch is smaller then the t2 that I might want to do the t2 because I would probably go thru clutches rather quickly.

I did put an engine bay pic did you see it? If not scroll up and you will find it.

dawicka2

^^^T2 clutch wont fit in an na trans tho. Get a stage 3 act or exedy for the na and you should be fine. Whats the # on the ecu that you have? Also curious as to the number on the pressure sensor.

15 lbs on a stock turbo in a high compression na block??? hmmm (even with stand alone not to sure about that)

Better off upgrading to a larger turbo with the stand alone and starting there and working up..

Car is a lot better off than i thought at 1st.

John ny

MazdaRX7.ws

The car needs a clutch and it also needs the leak to be fixed. The car has a problem starting and idols at 2k at all times. On cold starts sometimes I have to hold the gas down to keep it running. But when you drive it you can tell she runs great. I get a lot of back firing if I try to push it. No boost gauge in the car at all!! So I have no idea what I have been boosting at. I have the bnoost controller turned all the way down. The car even has coil over. So it does have potential. I would feel more comfortable with a t2 in it. I know a decent amount about the t2. Now the set up I now have... I am lost and not comfortable with it at all. Kinda scarry.

dawicka2

You will know what you have though. In addition to a haynes manual, also pick up a **** "phaze" boost guage and vacuum line. Whole thing will run you under 50.00 and possibly prevent a lot more money going out. Get all bugs worked out before stand alone.

john ny

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

KD rotary? What the hell kind of shop gives you dumbass advice like that? Take that **** somewhere else or do some research and educate yourself.

What you need to make your setup reliable:
T2 drivetrain
720cc injectors
RTEK 1.8 chip with SAFC II or standalone IF you plan on upgrading the turbo later
As a safeguard you can run water/meth injection (basic kits $200) to be able to run 12psi
or E85 conversion, or trust KD to be able to tune it well enough.

Why the hell would you remove a perfectly good engine? It sounds like hes trying to rip you off. A TII LONGBLOCK (no mainfolds, etc.) from the only reputable seller is $1300+ shipping. As far as the trans, I ran an NA trans in my 6PT car at 8psi for like 300 miles and blew first gear out of the trans. Although it gave me problems before (it was hard to shift into 1st when it got hot) and a couple months ago I noticed it had a leak and was running one quart low. If you can change the tranny yourself then I would wait till your NA unit gives (if it even does).

And the stock turbo will not give you 280whp, maybe with a standalone but unlikely as that would be breaking a record. Find out what kind of turbo it is (look at the compressor housing for HT-18). I have never seen a 6 port turbo setup run 12psi on the stock turbo though so you never know. You have an advantage with the high compression and bigger intake ports vs. the T2's. Your engine will make more power than a T2 and have better response on the stock turbo.

To check the ECU all you have to do is pull the carpet off the passenger side and check the part number on it...check the part numbers on the AFM and MAP too. Go to rotaryressurection.com and find out the part numbers for different series, very easy. REMOVE the boost controller completely and stay off boost in 4th and 5th gear. With the car running off the wastegate you will probably not hit higher than 8psi if you stay out of it in 5th.

Looks like a nice *** car to me, T2 manifolds, good turbo, good compression and an FMIC (?). Keep the engine, take my suggestions on the EMS and enjoy.

MazdaRX7.ws

Actually I ordered the original 1990 mazda rx7 dealer shop manual. I was told that was the best one to get.
-Is it??

Oh I forgot to mention...

I have a super afc piggy back controller in the car it is not connected though.

I might be able to use one of the ecu's I currently have and use the afc to tune the air fuel mixture to get this baby purring again... She has all that it takes... Just have to look through the ecu's remove the fuel cut thingy they hurt these cars in my opinion. They(fuel cut d) trick the ecu into thinking car is only getting the max stock boost when it is over and the ecu only supplies enough fuel for about 7 or 8 pounds... End up killing the engine. I know first hand.

Right now the car is covered and I do not feel like going out there and uncovering it to get the two spare ecu's. But tomorrow I will tell you all three ecu's. The two spare ones do not have any stickers on them. They look old and raggy. They have marker saying like example "13bt" or like example "1990 n/a ecu" so maybe pictures will help. The reason I wanted to get a stand alone is then no fuel issues! LOL But maybe i can use one of the ecu's in teh car and the super afc.

dvs71990

Im in Orange county as well

MazdaRX7.ws

Ok I know Dave a long time and he is very honest. He is not a rip off artist at all. The reason he told me to go t2 was because he came straight out and asked me what my goal was for the car power wise. I told him I would like to get to 330hp to the wheels. That is why he suggested t2. He said I can get a Jspec. It would come with engine, tranny, ecu, wiring... Drop it right in. He does them all the time.

Dave didn't say the stock turbo would be able to handle the 280 hp. He said the high compression can but no more then that. He did say the turbo would most likely get toasted.

I am going to see if I can get the quirks with this car straightened out such as the starting issue, also the exhaust leak, the ecu and fuel issue. Then see how the car runs. I don't know how to remove the boost controller. I am not going to be driving the car. It is just going to sit covered until I can make sure I am not going to hurt it by driving it. So I am going to be on here a lot looking for help in the upcoming days and weeks. I do appreciate all the input and help. If anyone lives near me and would be willing to help me. That would be kewl.

This is my 4th rx7. I love these cars and I wish I was more familiar with them and had the know how so I can fix my own car. Anyone willing to help me learn??

Yeah the reason I bought this car is because it is really nice. It doesn't have any rust ANYWHERE on the body or even under carriage. If you see it in person it does need some tlc. But it has great pontential. It is just going to take me time and getting some help from you all so this subject is still open tell me what you think.

dawicka2

Unfortunatey khan artist, no rtek for s5. I agree about the shop.........**** advice, seems like they dont know what their talkin about too, puttin a t2 clutch in an na trans. Just keep posting questions, people will definately help you learn. Sitting for hours researching past posts helps a lot too. Rotary meets are also great for first hand info as well. We are going to have a few next year at the orange county choppers building. Those guys are always cool with us hosting shows there.


John ny

MazdaRX7.ws

John. I would really like to know for sure if my block is s4 or s5. anyway I can tell with out cracking it open?

dawicka2

I do not know for a 6 port block., i remember a while back someone said spark plug spacing was different ..... I usually tell by omp and tps, which dont help us here.

john ny

dawicka2

.__________________

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

i did drive my SE with a S4 NA motor with S5 manifolds,injectors,turbo,RB 3 inch downpipe,RB FCD,N333 ECU,turbo flow meter and map sensor on a NA drivetrain and it ran fine until i got a real TURBO motor,i did not have any Rtek **** or 720cc injectors just stock everything and my car was faster than stock T2s,running 10 psi daily beating the **** out of the motor,in fact the motor still running strong on my friends MAZDA B2200.